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I did the mod today...when you drill the holes make sure you stay at least 5/8" away from the inside of the muffler case. I didn't ,and on the second hole I caught the screen that holds the packing in place and the packing wrapped around my bit. So BEWARE! I also took a picture with a flashlite in the intake side showing how much airflow there is. The other pics are of my new tip with bed and bath spark arrestor/sink drain lol That was made for me by grasshopper out of the goodness of his heart.(THANKS BILL) I have cut off the original tip and will be welding a plug from the inside so you don't see it.I will post more when all done and jet hot coated or painted see how it goes.I used a grinder with a zip disc and cut right at the weld to remove the end cap.. I then used a hacksaw to cut through the factory tube. To cut the factory tube flush with the baffle inside I used a die grinder with a zip disc.Then ,yes you need to weld it back on.
looks good and not to hijack but ive been pondering this for over a week now and still havnt found a true answer if ill need a fuel controller or not for EFI. i know you have to rejet the carb as i had to with my 400 but im not use to the EFI stuff.
I was serious Bed Bath and Beyond for the screen(sink strainer) and a fellow member (grasshopper) made the tip for me .The screen sits in a recess he created for it.The screen is notched a tiny bit at each screw hole so it is a perfect seal. Once the original tailpipe hole is welded and ground flush you will never know it isn't stock and if I get checked I am still legal(technically) because I have a spark arrestor. I am going to weld the stock tip to my original spark arrestor flange with a hole so I can reduce the size of my tip if I want it quieter.I picked up a couple more screens to have as spares
I used trimclad bbq paint, i tried that vht exhaust paint on my sled didnt last worth a crap so i thought id try bbq paint, there is about 10 coats on it tho lol i used the whole can just to try and get it to last maybe
Ok we will have to do a long term analysis of our paint jobs(lol). I used a wire wheel on my whole muffler then wiped it down with alcohol(rye will do lol) and three coats.So at the end of summer lets compare.ClapCat happyRockerdude
I was thinking of painting mine with green header paint, I think that would be too overkill though. I'm just going to paint it with barbecue paint, and when it flakes off at the end of the summer I will get it jet-hot coated.
I have talked to people who got the jethot done and said it was a wate of money.I'm not sure in Newfoundland but I got quoted $105.00 for just the muffler
Really? I was talking to GWC about it and he said he loved it. I will check it out. I want to get some kind of coating done, because I'm sick of re-painting my exhaust every year.
Hey,pretty sweet. Got a question for you. I havnt tried or anything yet but,how did you get the end off the exhaust. are you going to have to weld it back on there. thanks
I used a grinder with a zip disc and cut right at the weld. I then used a hacksaw to cut through the factory tube. To cut the factory tube flush with the baffle inside I used a die grinder with a zip disc.Then ,yes you need to weld it back on.
If you read further up ,my neighbour did it.Acid dipped then coated with a teflon like cooking surface...lol it is food grade.The pictures don't do it justice it looks like about 20 coats of clear
I have a 4 inch piece of Stainless pipe i been thinking about welding ends on and then a tip and putting it on my mud pro 700. anyone do this? I like the looks of your mod HrsToGo. just thought i have this piece of pipe and it would look cool being stainless and then it would match my truck...
I just did the exh mod same time as doorfx, and thanks to his ideas i did something similar, but when i rewelded the end back on, irotated it 180 degrees so that the arrestor/new exh tip are in the factory location. This way it keeps the exh tip away from the plastics. I will post pics when i get it back from the powder coater.
Jeff