Can anyone tell me if these are the correct readings I should be getting at the actuator plug for the 4 wheel drive switch? I am asking because the motor does not even attempt to turn when the 2 wheel drive position is selected but will run fine when 4 wheel drive is selected. Thanks Dale
If you cant read it on the photo here is how it reads. I am sure the white wires had some sort of stripe but were so faded I couldn't really tell but they are listed in order as they were in the plug from left to right. in other words the wires were in order white,black,white, red.
2wd selected 4wd selected
white wire 12v white wire 12v
black wire 0v black wire 0v
white wire 12v white wire 0v
red wire 12v red wire 12v
So is there anybody that can take about 2 min and unplug there 4 wheel drive actuator wire and tell me if they get the same reading on their 05 500 fis manual or whatever bike would have the same set up please.
Yea I'm not good at sorting through electrical diagrams. I'll talk and breeze through mechanical stuff all day long but have never been good at interpreting anything electrical. I just know there are 4 wires. I'm being the black is ground, the red should stay hot all the time, and the 2 while wires should come hot in the respective switch position. One of them will and the other one never gets any voltage on it making it a useless wire if it was intended to be this way so I guess the easy way to ask this question is with the switch in the 2wd position should the other white wire in the diagram that stays at 0 come hot to 12v to make the motor turn the opposite direction which would put my problem from the wire going to the actuator back to the switch or before.
Ok well maybe I have the wrong service manual then bc I did look at what you were talking about before I even posted this actually and all I saw was where it was testing a wire not 4 but I will look again today.
ok i found my actuator in an 07 manual. I double checked and could only find 1 manual for the 05 500 so unless its somewhere I dont know to look its the right one and I read as far as it talked about the actuator and it is funny that all it talks about is the 3 wire with mine having a 4 wire but never the less it does. The wiring also functions correctly best I can tell according to the 07 manual. Its pretty simple really all 3 wires (red, red/white,orange/white) stay hot in 2 wheel drive. When the switch is flipped to 4 wheel drive the red/white wire looses power which like I said best I can tell is whats supposed to happen. All that being said and my actuator motor running like crazy when the switch is in the 4wd position that tells me something is out on the little board. So what do you all think could be bad when this thing is flipped to 2wd to not make this motor run the opposite direction when the red/white wire gets power?
Ok thank you. I have sent the board and motor to our CIS /Technology dept. here at the college for trouble shooting. I will post what they figure out to hopefully help someone else in the future. Anyone have any idea why mine would be a 4 wire when the manual specifically talks about my year and make having a 3 wire?
Not yet... I called him Friday about it and he said he was putting a young man on it this week so maybe we'll have an answer soon. I will post the results as soon as I find out.
Well they claim they checked everything and couldn't figure it out so I'm right back where I was. I don't know how good of a job they did or anything like that so whats the suggestions on what to do next?
Ok I ordered a working unit off ebay to the tune of 135$ and I realize that is better than normal but geez!!!! Anyway he thinks he may be able to figure it out with the working one and an actual electronic schematic similar to the one pictured for the actuator. Yes I realize that one is for a truck or something but its an example of what he needs on this one. The actuator is a 4 wire and its arctic cat part number 0502-579. If yall can help me find this bc I can find one for the 3 wire but not the 4 I will repost what he figures out on it. He did say all the parts on the board were functioning so he was thinking maybe a soldering issue. I dont know and maybe he just said that but sending him this and a working one will pin him down to something I would think.
Hey, Dacker. I'm sitting here with my 4-wire actuator about to be tested after repairs. I've been following this thread including the apparent contradictions in model years, 4-wire vs 3-wire, and the rest. I'm no super expert on ATV's but I do have a few clues about electronics and trouble-shooting. I know you've posted some of this in separate messages, but could you humour (oops, Canadian!) HUMOR me by posting in one shot the machine's make, model (I assume the s/n first two digits are its year, 05) and a photo of the actuator belonging to the machine, installed or not, and a photo of the handlebar switch.
Thanks.
Thanks for the pictures. Is your Differential Lock engaged? You shouldn't be able to put the machine into 2WD and Lock at the same time. If it's not engaged, you may have a bad switch in the front differential case. Look for a wire on a terminal on the case's left side close to where the mechanical diff lock cable is attached. Disconnect the wire and see if you can switch to 2WD.
No the actuator was bad it is working fine with the new actuator now. I need the electronic schematic to try and figure out whats going on with the old one. Your welcome BTW
I see. I don't have a schematic of the actuator. But as for the 4-wire vs 3-wire issue, in checking some of the harness wiring diagrams for some of the 2005 machines, I found out that the 500 Automatic, 500 Manual, and 500 TBX, the one with the dump box, all used 4-wire actuators. However, the 500 TRV (Two Rider Vehicle) used a 3-wire, as did the 400 TBX. The first three machines here had a "4WD" indicator on the instrument pod, the TRV according to the drawing, displayed "2WD" on its panel.
These four 2005 500's used two different instrument panels in combination with three different "digital gauges". No wonder the manuals can be ambiguous.
Good luck with the defective box. I've had to do mine twice, both because of water in the box. Interestingly, there was no physical damage to any of the parts, except for a rusty motor case; the problems were caused by illegitimate, conductive electrical paths being created by the dirty water after it had partially dried on the board and among the leads of the components. If this ever becomes an issue for you, I'd advise taking off the white vinyl insulator of the 4-pin header connector and clean the board surface under the insulator. Also check the condition of the pins in the connector, the can be unlocked an slid out. Also check the motor's contacts. The motor is simply plugged onto the two large right-angle contacts. Grab the motor and pull. Clean the ends of the blades. Put a few drops of oil on the two end of the motor's shaft.
Starting to run on here... Good luck!
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