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2nd question...
The electric start only clicks when I turn the key. (Sounds like dead battery, right?)
Battery is fully charged, and I cleaned the connections.

But... It did electric start when the seller hooked up his little jumper pack.
 

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Batteries can show a full charge yet are not able to turn over a motor. There's a dead cell or two in it. It happened to me with a quad. Battery which was still under warranty showed good voltage but failed a load test.
 

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Batteries can show a full charge yet are not able to turn over a motor. There's a dead cell or two in it. It happened to me with a quad. Battery which was still under warranty showed good voltage but failed a load test.
x2
What is important is the voltage that is present at the battery when under a load. All the dead [bad] batteries that I have recycled show 12 volts at rest.............
 

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What is important is the voltage that is present at the battery when under a load. All the dead [bad] batteries that I have recycled show 12 volts at rest.............
When a battery is at rest, it will show 12.7 volts even if the cell is no good. You have to use a 160cca load tester for a starter. It puts your starter under a steady load. If your cell is safe for a starter (truck, car, or snowmobile) it will show 10.5 volts under a load, this is good. Dying batteries will show as 9.5, 9, or 8.7 or so volts, this is very bad. The starter will draw the power it needs regardless of the voltage. So when the volts are too low, the amperage flows way too fast to compensate. This makes the inside of your start roast. So when your start only “whirs” or does not click to push the gear forward, it’s either your battery voltage is too low or the starter is already broken. Sometimes when you jump your battery to a running vehicle, then it starts ok, it means your battery is not producing 10.5 volts under a load but does when jumped. Good luck. For me, I upgraded to a glass matte agm battery that produces 400cca, my snowmobile calls for 200cca, so this helps ensure my battery can hold 10.5 volts under s load.
 

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When a battery is at rest, it will show 12.7 volts even if the cell is no good. You have to use a 160cca load tester for a starter. It puts your starter under a steady load. If your cell is safe for a starter (truck, car, or snowmobile) it will show 10.5 volts under a load, this is good. Dying batteries will show as 9.5, 9, or 8.7 or so volts, this is very bad. The starter will draw the power it needs regardless of the voltage. So when the volts are too low, the amperage flows way too fast to compensate. This makes the inside of your start roast. So when your start only “whirs” or does not click to push the gear forward, it’s either your battery voltage is too low or the starter is already broken. Sometimes when you jump your battery to a running vehicle, then it starts ok, it means your battery is not producing 10.5 volts under a load but does when jumped. Good luck. For me, I upgraded to a glass matte agm battery that produces 400cca, my snowmobile calls for 200cca, so this helps ensure my battery can hold 10.5 volts under s load.
Agreed, Interstate Battery makes excellant batteries for powersports. Check them out.
 

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Agree with others. re: A battery may test good on the tester or on a charger but in reality, something is wrong with it. And, it doesn't have enough "juice" to work properly under sudden load. I had a snowmobile battery like that. To confirm it was my battery, I simply disconnected my battery and connected to a different battery (of near similar CC Amp ratings) and turned its key. She instantly fired right up. Re-connected to my fully charged battery (as per my battery charger) and "no joy". Sad Face. Thus, proving it was my fully charged battery. Hope this test idea works for you as well....
 
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