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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Proclimbers-

My '12 SnoPro 800 just threw a ECU 17 code (exhaust temp sensor) on my last ride. I ordered another one, but don't think it'll be here before the weekend and I want to ride. Can I ride it with that bad sensor?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Hi Proclimbers-

My '12 SnoPro 800 just threw a ECU 17 code (exhaust temp sensor) on my last ride. I ordered another one, but don't think it'll be here before the weekend and I want to ride. Can I ride it with that bad sensor?
 

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Can you verify that the sensor is bad. I have had the code and had it reset upon restarting.
I have also rode with the code. You will feel the drop in performance. It dumps fuel and changes timing, but still runs.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Can you verify that the sensor is bad. I have had the code and had it reset upon restarting.
I have also rode with the code. You will feel the drop in performance. It dumps fuel and changes timing, but still runs.
Thanks for the info. Thankfully my new sensor arrived yesterday and it was plug and play. No codes.
On another note...it was NOT a Arctic Cat part. It was a General Motors part for a 2011 Duramax truck. I watched a video posted by a company that works mainly on AC, and they stated that the AC Delco (GM) part is identical to the AC part, but at a fraction of the cost. I paid $26 for mine on Amazon. Double Cool.
 

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I had to replace mine last year and used the GM part at NAPA and I think I paid around $30-$35 or so, huge savings for the same thing. Mine went out because it vibrated loose, make sure you use a little blue lock tite on it.
For others that read this, yes you can ride with the code flashing but your sled uses 30% more fuel. I didn't notice any difference in power tho.
 

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Crash74, I had one failure that was almost the opposite of your situation. It could not be removed because it was cross threaded. I have no idea how they got that thing in so tight. o_O It wrecked the nipple on the pipe too.
Not sure if there is any need to loctite. The temp range on blue is only 300F. There isn't much holding power is left with the stuff melting.
 

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Crash74, I had one failure that was almost the opposite of your situation. It could not be removed because it was cross threaded. I have no idea how they got that thing in so tight. o_O It wrecked the nipple on the pipe too.
Not sure if there is any need to loctite. The temp range on blue is only 300F. There isn't much holding power is left with the stuff melting.
I have no clue how anyone could cross thread those, but blue Loctite is what's recommended from the factory. Service manual doesn't say it in there but that's what I was advised to use by a cat tech at the factory. Mine has never come out since I used it.
 
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