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Removing the spider nut requires a lot of heat. It's torqued to 240 ft lbs using red loctite.

Are the clutches damaged to the point the spider needs to be removed? Removing the spider would not be considered normal maintenance.
 

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Hopefully it's just the cam arm bushings. That's fairly common. They may dig into the spider a bit, but if the rollers turn and the spider isn't worn too much I would leave it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok, I'll try that, any useful tips to the replacement of the cam arms, manual says to pry open and use new lock nuts.
Is it just as easy to replace them with clutch on sled?
Should be able to use a little grease to hold washers in place for installation?
 

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taking the nut off the spider will do you no good unless you have the tool to take the spider off as well. personally i would throw the clutches away and get new ones.
 

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I wouldn't use grease on the shim washers or anywhere in the clutch. It would end up attracting dust and gum things up. I prefer to remove the clutch to get an overall better look and everything. I like to replace the spring during a rebuild as well. In theory you should be able to do the cam arms with it installed. Did you get a pin/bushing kit for it?
 

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If you don't have a clutch puller just remove the side belly pan or at least loosen it off enough to give you some working room. If you remove it there is a bunch of torx head screws underneath, a bolt up by the foot well and you'll have to remove the hinge bolt on that side. It might be easier to completely remove the hood because it won't stay up very well once you remove the bolt on one side. One other difficult spot is in order to get the belly pan off you have to remove the top shock bolt which is a p.i.t.a. If I were to do it again and what I'm going to do when I re-install mine is to cut the little tabs where the belly pan goes around the shock mount then you can just slide it up and out. You'll see what I mean when you look at it.

Once you got the belly pan off there is lots of room to work. You can remove the clutch cover. Just go easy and equally around the bolts so as not to put any stress on it. The spring is not under a lot of tension so it's not going to come flying off. Once you have the cover off you can easily change the weights and give everything a good spray down with break cleaner.
 

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The required torx for the clutch is a T-30 I believe, and I think the belly pan torx is a T-20, and the hood mount is a T-27.
 
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