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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did what you said with a hole 2" in front of the original hole and 23 3/4" for the back hole and it looks like the skid is way to far forward. I followed the instructions and things don’t line up. Help!!! Oh I used a 99 arctic cat zl 500 rear suspension if that helps.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (SSGZRT @ Mar 3 2007, 07:45 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I did what you said with a hole 2" in front of the original hole and 23 3/4" for the back hole and it looks like the skid is way to far forward. I followed the instructions and things don't line up. Help!!! Oh I used a 99 arctic cat zl 500 rear suspension if that helps.[/b]
ZL and ZR suspensions are different. The instructions were for a ZR. You might need to adjust where the holes go.
 

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I do have a ZL skid in my 94 ZR and the tunnel is probably similar to the 96 ZRT tunnel. I used the same front hole as my original skid and had to drill a new rear hole forward of the original, about 1.5", but it was a long time ago. The rear hole was well within the tunnel reinforcing plate, so no new reinforcing was required. The rear Fox shock form the ZRT skid should swap into the ZL skid, but the front shock will probably be too short.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I did go and check out a skid on a newer sled and the holes had a 21.5" span I think that I do need to drop the front down the 2". I just got some new 16 gauge plates to replace the front inside and one on the outside. I'm also going to add one on the outside in the rear to cover the multiple holes. What size rivets do you recommend for max grip? This is how it sits now. Also is there a big differance between the ZR and the ZL?

[attachment=65759:zrt11.jpg]
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (SSGZRT @ Mar 8 2007, 08:08 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I did go and check out a skid on a newer sled and the holes had a 21.5" span I think that I do need to drop the front down the 2". I just got some new 16 gauge plates to replace the front inside and one on the outside. I'm also going to add one on the outside in the rear to cover the multiple holes. What size rivets do you recommend for max grip? This is how it sits now. Also is there a big differance between the ZR and the ZL?

[attachment=65759:zrt11.jpg][/b]
I'm sorry man, but I don;t really understand what you said here. I'm not sure that you need to make all these new holes in the tunnel, but that does help remove weight from the sled. Have you tried using the stock front holes and seeing where the rear ends up? The ZL suspension has a softer geometry and gas bag, non-rebuildable shocks, more intended for trail crusing. You can install stiffer springs and Fox shocks and never really know the difference. Just don't make the project more difficult than it needs be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I drilled holes for the ZR skid and that did not work. After seeing that it was not going to work I used the original front holes and drilled two new rear holes so that I could install the skid at the 21.5" span. Now I have 3 holes on each side in the rear and a extra hole in the front. I just wanted to cover the holes and reinforce the tunnel with the plates. Also when the sled is sitting without any weight on it the front of the skid is not on the track. That is why I was thinking about lowering it the 2" in the front.
 

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Did you let out the limiter straps on the front arm? Did you try riding the sled to see how it works? Did you swap a shorter shock into the front arm position? The few extra holes should not be a problem for the strength of the tunnel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I did ride it and it was ok but I think that it could be better. The shocks are the same as what came with it. I just had my old fox shock rebuilt I'm goint to throw that in the rear as well. I'll try letting out the limiter straps and see what that gives me. I can't try it much this weekend all the snow is going fast.
 
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