Mike before you sell try this:
1: Pull limiter straps tighter so the front of the track is slightly off the pavement about 1/2"
2: Loosen the front arm spring in the front of the skid frame until it rattles then tighten 1-2 turns.
3: turn the coupler block to #3 position ( narrowing the gap to the rear scissor of the suspension)
4: Tighten the front ski springs ( mine is a SnoPro and I am about 3 1/2" from the begining of the threaded collar to the spring )
5: Go in hard to the corner, then stab the brake to set the front ski's, then ease hard into the throttle. Big carbides help too (big diameter host bar-Stud Boy G-Force 9" is my choice so far)
In #1 pulling up the straps will place more weight on the ski's.
In #2 loosening the spring will compress easier to allow the ski's to stay planted longer.
In #3 turning the coupler blocks will make the front shock react WITH the rear. When you accelerate hard the susp. transfers the weight to the rear of the sled. Tightening the gap between the scissor and the block lessens the transfer therefore lifting up on the front arm when the rear squats keeping most of the weight on the ski's
In #4 tightening the front ski spring will stiffen the ski's up in a corner to not allow as much "roll" and it will keep the front end from getting too light.
In #5 you are essentially setting up the suspension for the corner. By stabbing the brake you are forcing the weight to the front of the sled making the carbides dig. As you hit the "apex" of the corner ease into the throttle as hard as you can without upsetting the front susp. (lifting the ski's)
This is exactly how I set my sled up and am very pleased with the result. The first time out I was feeling just like you, way too tippy. I came from a 1998 ZR 600 that handled like it was on rails and first impression with the Firecat was "what did I do, I should have bought another ZR". I kept reading and asking question on this site and this is what I came up with. It still doesn't handle like my old ZR but like some of these guys have said "you have to DRIVE a Firecat not Ride one", " Firecats require more body english". But my ZR never went like my F7, thing absolutly rips. Just fine tune the suspension and I think your Yammi buddies will get sick of your tailight. I did see a bigger sway bar on the ODS site for about $45 that would help too I am considering it myself.
Good Luck Mike
1: Pull limiter straps tighter so the front of the track is slightly off the pavement about 1/2"
2: Loosen the front arm spring in the front of the skid frame until it rattles then tighten 1-2 turns.
3: turn the coupler block to #3 position ( narrowing the gap to the rear scissor of the suspension)
4: Tighten the front ski springs ( mine is a SnoPro and I am about 3 1/2" from the begining of the threaded collar to the spring )
5: Go in hard to the corner, then stab the brake to set the front ski's, then ease hard into the throttle. Big carbides help too (big diameter host bar-Stud Boy G-Force 9" is my choice so far)
In #1 pulling up the straps will place more weight on the ski's.
In #2 loosening the spring will compress easier to allow the ski's to stay planted longer.
In #3 turning the coupler blocks will make the front shock react WITH the rear. When you accelerate hard the susp. transfers the weight to the rear of the sled. Tightening the gap between the scissor and the block lessens the transfer therefore lifting up on the front arm when the rear squats keeping most of the weight on the ski's
In #4 tightening the front ski spring will stiffen the ski's up in a corner to not allow as much "roll" and it will keep the front end from getting too light.
In #5 you are essentially setting up the suspension for the corner. By stabbing the brake you are forcing the weight to the front of the sled making the carbides dig. As you hit the "apex" of the corner ease into the throttle as hard as you can without upsetting the front susp. (lifting the ski's)
This is exactly how I set my sled up and am very pleased with the result. The first time out I was feeling just like you, way too tippy. I came from a 1998 ZR 600 that handled like it was on rails and first impression with the Firecat was "what did I do, I should have bought another ZR". I kept reading and asking question on this site and this is what I came up with. It still doesn't handle like my old ZR but like some of these guys have said "you have to DRIVE a Firecat not Ride one", " Firecats require more body english". But my ZR never went like my F7, thing absolutly rips. Just fine tune the suspension and I think your Yammi buddies will get sick of your tailight. I did see a bigger sway bar on the ODS site for about $45 that would help too I am considering it myself.
Good Luck Mike
