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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
after a weekend trip to Canada w/ some Revs, and a couple new Yamis, I have to say that I am sick of the handling on my F-cat. This sled takes SO much input to keep the skis on the snow in a corner and not roll that its simply exhausting! after 450+mi I just had nothing left, 2 50yr old guys were ahead of me all weekend. The straight line performance of this sled is awsome, suspension for jumping is great, but the body roll is just to much, if there was more snow on the ground it would have got traded in on monday!

Mike
 

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Thats the nature of an F series sled.

However you can improve the handling with 4th wheel kit,adjusting limiter straps and the biggest help after market skiis.

If you want to plant your a$$ on the seat and only turn the handle bar..then ya buy a Yammi or look at a ZR or Crossfire..but try taking one of those Yammis off trail into some powder or bashing some drifts on hill tops.

You gotta buy a sled that fits your riding style..one size does not fit all anymore. my2cents
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
sorry guys, after upgrading my seat and having my front suspension painted, Im afraid I would be in the dog house if I spent another dime on the cat.
And how could ski's that have MORE bite help stabalize the machine??

I did add fat guy springs this fall for a stiffer rear, ya think thats part of the prob???? how should I adjust if thats the case?

Mike
 

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I'll trade you my o2 yamie for it!
I got a o6' f7 sp and smile every time I get off it! Never knew the 13.5 could be so much fun! Sorry to see the f chasis be discontinued!
It is and was a great one!

mods
slp powder pros
iso vib 2 inch riser
176 studs
 

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Mike before you sell try this:

1: Pull limiter straps tighter so the front of the track is slightly off the pavement about 1/2"

2: Loosen the front arm spring in the front of the skid frame until it rattles then tighten 1-2 turns.

3: turn the coupler block to #3 position ( narrowing the gap to the rear scissor of the suspension)

4: Tighten the front ski springs ( mine is a SnoPro and I am about 3 1/2" from the begining of the threaded collar to the spring )

5: Go in hard to the corner, then stab the brake to set the front ski's, then ease hard into the throttle. Big carbides help too (big diameter host bar-Stud Boy G-Force 9" is my choice so far)

In #1 pulling up the straps will place more weight on the ski's.
In #2 loosening the spring will compress easier to allow the ski's to stay planted longer.
In #3 turning the coupler blocks will make the front shock react WITH the rear. When you accelerate hard the susp. transfers the weight to the rear of the sled. Tightening the gap between the scissor and the block lessens the transfer therefore lifting up on the front arm when the rear squats keeping most of the weight on the ski's
In #4 tightening the front ski spring will stiffen the ski's up in a corner to not allow as much "roll" and it will keep the front end from getting too light.
In #5 you are essentially setting up the suspension for the corner. By stabbing the brake you are forcing the weight to the front of the sled making the carbides dig. As you hit the "apex" of the corner ease into the throttle as hard as you can without upsetting the front susp. (lifting the ski's)

This is exactly how I set my sled up and am very pleased with the result. The first time out I was feeling just like you, way too tippy. I came from a 1998 ZR 600 that handled like it was on rails and first impression with the Firecat was "what did I do, I should have bought another ZR". I kept reading and asking question on this site and this is what I came up with. It still doesn't handle like my old ZR but like some of these guys have said "you have to DRIVE a Firecat not Ride one", " Firecats require more body english". But my ZR never went like my F7, thing absolutly rips. Just fine tune the suspension and I think your Yammi buddies will get sick of your tailight. I did see a bigger sway bar on the ODS site for about $45 that would help too I am considering it myself.

Good Luck Mike
 

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slncapri is totally right here, too much ski pressure (handles like crap) or too little, no turning, doesn't work good with the firecats. Do what he said and check your toe in/out., I believe its the only thing he left out. You have one or the other, too much pressure or too little, firecats in stock from didnt want to turn, add studs and then it's worst, The stock carbides arent worth a hoot
ZR's will loll you to sleep, they handle so well that the rider doesnt need to give the sled any input. Firecats do need a little, but from what your talking about, you need alot. My firecats (2) handle great, very close to what a ZR did. Take a lot of measurements and ask some of us to compare, we'll gladly help.
My wife rides one on my (our) firecats, she loves it! Shaper bars YES ,4 wheel kit YES. If I can help, let me know.........tigger
 

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im about 195 with gear on and i had standard sno pro fox zeros in the rear with sno pro rear torsion springs on a standard 03 f7. i have fox floats in the front off an m series sled (1.25 in shorter center to center) and c and a pros for skis. this was a much better setup than the standard but still had some ski lift in the corners. after reading a wealth of stuff on setting these sleds up i went back to the standard torsions in the rear and had the rear shocks setup for my weight, revalved and a little quicker rebound. i dropped a little a pressure in the front. like 75 down to 55 pounds. sled feels much better now. almost no lift. pushes just a bit but i do have 187 studs and i need fresh carbide. i just run 10 in standard carbides on the c and a skis. i am going to drill a half inch up on the limiter and get just a little more pressure in the front. i think it will be perfect then. softer rear suspension with properly setup shocks is way nicer and better handling than stiff springs. just need the 05 seat and i will really like the sled.
 

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I still have the stock ski's on my F7 with 9" shaper bars, and this thing turns so quick and easy I have to use body english to keep sled from rolling, not to get it to turn. I also have the straps pulled up, heavy duty sno pro rear springs, and the front skid spring fairly loose, but not as loose as some. My ski springs are also quite loose, so all I have to do is blip the brakes without getting of the gas and steer through the corner. I actually like it better than my '99 ZR700.
 

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I totally agree with SLNCAPRI :thumbsup:


Another thing to consider,, the lower mount hole for the shock in the front of the skid. I tightened my limiter up about 1.5 inches but found that it compressed the front shock too much and I was worried it would be too tight,, I only had 2 threads showing so I had no room soften it.. I moved the lower mount position back one hole to lengthen the shock back out............

.02

JDM
 
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