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Awesome post CK!! Thanks
 

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I paid $9.49 + tax at O'Reillys

O'Reillys Part# 5860
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PRE0/5860.oap?keyword=5860





What most guys don't know is that the Geo CV that this kit is intended for is much bigger in dia. and this boot has to be stretched on to it as you can tell by the clamps that came with the kit.

I go to Napa and buy ones to fit, they cost about $1.25 ea.
part# 730-7375.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt=730-7375&Ntk=Keyword&Nty=1&Dn=0&D=730-7375&Dk=1&Dp=3&N=0
 

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Awsome thank you for posting

I'm sure this is posted somewhere, and I'm probably waisting my time, but here it goes anyways. The main reason for posting this, is due to all the questions pertaining to it. Its very simple with the right tools, and a little instruction. Upon checking out my sons 300 and doing some regular maintenance, I noticed he busted a boot last weekend while riding. I did this last night and from start to finish, even with taken pics, it took me right at 30 mins. I've done several, so the time it takes you may or may not take longer.

Tools I use:
Jack
Socket set
Ratchet, banding tool (You can get this from any CV store for about 25 bucks)
2 long bands (Get these at any CV store about .75 each
2 short bands (Same as above)
2 cv boots (Same as above, usually about 4 bucks)
Dremel with cut off wheel,band cutter, or side cutters. Either will do.
Hammer
Grease
Snap ring pliers


Assuming your bike is jacked up, and wheel remeoved, this is what I do.
1)Remove cotter pin, and large axle keep nut or hub nut. Its sometimes called the castle or crown nut also.
(Be sure your diff oil is drained)

2) Remove upper upper shock mount bolt

3) Remove upper A arm bolts (See pic bellow)


4) Remove lower A arm bolts ( all the above may vary, but still the same concept. You may have to remove boot guards or other bolts that are in the way)


5) Grab the axle with your strong hand..LOL and push inward toward the diff. The inside cage of the joint will slide inward. This will allow you some room for levereage


6) Yank on the axle arm (this may take several tries, push the axle inward toward the diff again and repeat) The axle will pop out of the diff.


7) With the axle out of the diff, use a rubber mallet,wood block, or thread the castle nut back on to the end of the axle and tap it until the axle is free of the hub. DONT LOOSE THE RUBBER BUSHING ON THE HUB


8)Now with the axle in your hand, cut all the bands off. You can purchase a band cutter at any auto parts store,use a good pair of side cutter, or use a dremel with a cut off wheel, which is what I use.


ATTENTION***** When cutting the band off of the torn boot, you can go crazy and cut it howeer you like! BUT!!! on the boot that is still good, just cut the band where, the tab is, and only cut the tab. Dont go all the way through the entire band, as it will cut into the boot when using a dremel. If you're using a band cutter,or side cutters, just cut the whole band. You may have to use a flat head screw driver to pry up the band first. be careful not to puncture the good boot.

9) With bands cut, slide the inboard boot (boot closest to diff) down the axle toward the outboard boot. ( You may have to use a small flat head screw driver to free it from its position)


10) There is a large C clip inside the inboard joint,just beneath the lips of the joint. This is what keeps the joint from sliding off. You will see notches cut out of the lip. This is to gain acces to the C clip. Use a very small flat head screw driver, and pick out one of those grooves, to try and pry the screw driver in between the lip of the joint and the C clip. I always do this until I find the end of the C clip. The end is much easier to pry, as it has the least amount of tension on it. The clip comes out pretty easy, just dont loose it. Also you will need to take a pretty sharp angle on the clip to get it out. Be sure and push the axle in toward the cup. (The race will slide in giving you room to work, just like when pulling the axle from the actual diff in step 5)



11) With Clip removed the joint will now slide off.


12) Now you see the cage, that has the balls on it. Clean as much of the grease as possible, away from the top part of the cage.

13) You will see a snap ring. This part can be a little tricky but not bad. It also gets a little messy here for me.


What I do is take my snap ring pliers,and spread the snap ring. With my other hand, I grap the cage, and lift up, using the weight of the axle to make it slide out of the cage. The snap ring pliers can be a PITA, and will keep coming out, which is why I do it this way. Works like a charm.

14) Remove the cage with race


15) Remove the inboard boot

16) Remove the Outboard boot


17) Clean neccisary parts

18) Install new outboard boot


19) Install new inboard boot.


20) Regrease both joints and put a decent amount inside the boots.

21) Position the new boots in the right place, and clean outter part if neccesary.

22) Place your bands on new boots, and tighten the up.




23) Now reverse your steps to install the axle and suspension parts. Dont forget to fill your diff up.

Hope this helps!
Awsome..thank you for posting...great help for a newbie like me..
 

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How are the EPI Boots? Would I want standard or Extreme Cold? And you guys are saying I dont need the tool?

Will I lose gear oil by doing this?
 

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I'm sure this is posted somewhere, and I'm probably waisting my time, but here it goes anyways. The main reason for posting this, is due to all the questions pertaining to it. Its very simple with the right tools, and a little instruction. Upon checking out my sons 300 and doing some regular maintenance, I noticed he busted a boot last weekend while riding. I did this last night and from start to finish, even with taken pics, it took me right at 30 mins. I've done several, so the time it takes you may or may not take longer.

Tools I use:
Jack
Socket set
Ratchet, banding tool (You can get this from any CV store for about 25 bucks)
2 long bands (Get these at any CV store about .75 each
2 short bands (Same as above)
2 cv boots (Same as above, usually about 4 bucks)
Dremel with cut off wheel,band cutter, or side cutters. Either will do.
Hammer
Grease
Snap ring pliers


Assuming your bike is jacked up, and wheel remeoved, this is what I do.
1)Remove cotter pin, and large axle keep nut or hub nut. Its sometimes called the castle or crown nut also.
(Be sure your diff oil is drained)

2) Remove upper upper shock mount bolt

3) Remove upper A arm bolts (See pic bellow)


4) Remove lower A arm bolts ( all the above may vary, but still the same concept. You may have to remove boot guards or other bolts that are in the way)


5) Grab the axle with your strong hand..LOL and push inward toward the diff. The inside cage of the joint will slide inward. This will allow you some room for levereage


6) Yank on the axle arm (this may take several tries, push the axle inward toward the diff again and repeat) The axle will pop out of the diff.


7) With the axle out of the diff, use a rubber mallet,wood block, or thread the castle nut back on to the end of the axle and tap it until the axle is free of the hub. DONT LOOSE THE RUBBER BUSHING ON THE HUB


8)Now with the axle in your hand, cut all the bands off. You can purchase a band cutter at any auto parts store,use a good pair of side cutter, or use a dremel with a cut off wheel, which is what I use.


ATTENTION***** When cutting the band off of the torn boot, you can go crazy and cut it howeer you like! BUT!!! on the boot that is still good, just cut the band where, the tab is, and only cut the tab. Dont go all the way through the entire band, as it will cut into the boot when using a dremel. If you're using a band cutter,or side cutters, just cut the whole band. You may have to use a flat head screw driver to pry up the band first. be careful not to puncture the good boot.

9) With bands cut, slide the inboard boot (boot closest to diff) down the axle toward the outboard boot. ( You may have to use a small flat head screw driver to free it from its position)


10) There is a large C clip inside the inboard joint,just beneath the lips of the joint. This is what keeps the joint from sliding off. You will see notches cut out of the lip. This is to gain acces to the C clip. Use a very small flat head screw driver, and pick out one of those grooves, to try and pry the screw driver in between the lip of the joint and the C clip. I always do this until I find the end of the C clip. The end is much easier to pry, as it has the least amount of tension on it. The clip comes out pretty easy, just dont loose it. Also you will need to take a pretty sharp angle on the clip to get it out. Be sure and push the axle in toward the cup. (The race will slide in giving you room to work, just like when pulling the axle from the actual diff in step 5)



11) With Clip removed the joint will now slide off.


12) Now you see the cage, that has the balls on it. Clean as much of the grease as possible, away from the top part of the cage.

13) You will see a snap ring. This part can be a little tricky but not bad. It also gets a little messy here for me.


What I do is take my snap ring pliers,and spread the snap ring. With my other hand, I grap the cage, and lift up, using the weight of the axle to make it slide out of the cage. The snap ring pliers can be a PITA, and will keep coming out, which is why I do it this way. Works like a charm.

14) Remove the cage with race


15) Remove the inboard boot

16) Remove the Outboard boot


17) Clean neccisary parts

18) Install new outboard boot


19) Install new inboard boot.


20) Regrease both joints and put a decent amount inside the boots.

21) Position the new boots in the right place, and clean outter part if neccesary.

22) Place your bands on new boots, and tighten the up.




23) Now reverse your steps to install the axle and suspension parts. Dont forget to fill your diff up.

Hope this helps!

Do you have to take the axle out to change JUST the outter boot?
 

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I have a 04 400 FIS and have noticed that the clearance between the outer boot clamp and the spindle lower mount on the front is next to nonexistent. None of the clamps I used would clear without hitting the clamp crimp. I removed a bit of material from the spindle where the clamps rubbed with a disc grinder. About 1/8" did the trick. The spindles are iron so they are still plenty strong. Just a heads up before you find out the hard way.
 

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Do you have to take the axle out to change JUST the outter boot?
No, you can change the outer boot with the axle still stuck in the diff, but once you have gone that far you might as well pull the axle out so you can work on it up on your workbench.


I have a 04 400 FIS and have noticed that the clearance between the outer boot clamp and the spindle lower mount on the front is next to nonexistent. None of the clamps I used would clear without hitting the clamp crimp. I removed a bit of material from the spindle where the clamps rubbed with a disc grinder. About 1/8" did the trick. The spindles are iron so they are still plenty strong. Just a heads up before you find out the hard way.

What type of bands have you tried? As seen in the picture below there should be plenty of room, this is a picture of the front of my 03 and there is a good 1/8" of room between the knuckle and the clamping part of the band. The only time I've ever heard of having to clearance the knuckle is when guys have installed the new larger dia. MP axles.

 

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No, you can change the outer boot with the axle still stuck in the diff, but once you have gone that far you might as well pull the axle out so you can work on it up on your workbench.





What type of bands have you tried? As seen in the picture below there should be plenty of room, this is a picture of the front of my 03 and there is a good 1/8" of room between the knuckle and the clamping part of the band. The only time I've ever heard of having to clearance the knuckle is when guys have installed the new larger dia. MP axles.

That picture shows the same clearance as I have now AFTER removing some material.The casting was about 1/16" taller than the bolt flange before I took it down with the grinder.Maybe mine was a factory screw up because the original factory boot clamp rubbed on the spindle when new.
 

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I just recently did my front, left, outter boot and saved a lot of time by getting a stretch boot. Here is the boot I got: CV Joint Fast Boot Kit - Arctic Cat 700 H1 EFI LE 4x4 2008 2009 2010 2011 | eBay

All I did was unbolt the upper and lower control arms, took the hub nut off and swung everything out of the way, cut the old boot off and cleaned up the cv joint, sprayed WD-40 on the cv joint to lube it up, turned the stretch (fast) boot inside out and slid it over the cv joint, turned it right side out, positioned it, repacked with grease and clamped it on. Took no time at all.
 

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It says 200 hrs !! I sure hope it lasts longer than that. I ride 6-8 hrs a day on a regular basis. Tha t would be about 2 months of riding????
 

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6 to 8 Hrs a Day, Do you not work/or go to school? I could not imagine riding that much and I use my Quad all the time for chores, and trail rides.
 

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Lol not every day:) I meant when I ride like weekends and days off a 6-8 hour ride is normal. So if you ride every weekend say 10 hrs it adds fast
 

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It says 200 hrs !! I sure hope it lasts longer than that. I ride 6-8 hrs a day on a regular basis. Tha t would be about 2 months of riding????
I would guess that it will last longer. It's a neoprene rubber so it should last. It seems pretty durable. And I don't think the angle on the CV joint is 23.5 degrees. I'm sure the steeper the angle the more any cv boot will wear out.
 

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Thanks !!

My Sons recently bought 2004 Arctic Cat right rear halfshaft broke near the differential about a month ago. I printed out your information which made my job much quicker and easier. Thanks, again !!
 

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I have a 2004 650V2 and just found that my left front, outer boot is torn. After reading these instructions, I'm going to give it a try.
But should I replace the inner as well? It looks fine.
 

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I'd Replace both when you have it apart, Unless of course its in great shape.
 

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Good writeup but (my opinion / everyone works their own way) excessive teardown for just a boot replacement. Good for rebuild though.

If the joints are well greased and arent full of rock powder or dirt:

I take the axle out, squeeze it in a vice to hold it still. Cut both boots off, then give the outer CV joint a good smack with a brass hammer while holding onto the end, it should pop off. Then slide the inner boot up the shaft, slide the outer boot on, put the outer CV back on and give the end a tap with the bass hammer, it should snap back on. put grease in the boots, apply bands. Done.
 
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