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Discussion Starter #1
Well an unpleasant surprise just happened while replacing my oem reeds and I wonder what you would do about it.

I replaced the original reeds with new oem reeds, following the the service manual specification to torque the screws down to 10 in-lb +/- 2.2 in lb, I set it to 10 inch lbs. I don't want a screw getting loose and going through the engine.

Then a screw stripped out. I couldn't believe it, but figured well theres no going back so I just reduced to 8 in-lbs and kept going. Another one stripped out, quite a ways under 8 in lbs to boot.

The only thing I can think of is that there's oil all over everything so the threads are seeing less friction and getting more stress than they would dry. 馃がdamn 馃が 馃が@@##!! 馃が!

Anyway I can try to repair them, maybe helicoil these little buggers or spend 200 for oem replacements or spend big bucks and spring for the aftermarket.
Or just get longer screws and use nuts with red loctite?

By the way, at 3000 miles the original OEM reeds looked totally 100% fine. edges were all intact.

362051
362053


Thanks in advance and I'll post updates as I fix it.
 

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It could be the oil on threads. It can be tough to get everything dry. Some people prefer to use oil for consistent results. There is also the argument for reducing the torque setting if using oil. Some charts want 30% plus reduction.
Something doesn't seem right if you already have two that stripped. I wish I had your answer. Is it just the oil? Is the torque tool reading correctly? I have seen them out of whack. I know the tool is certified, but that is a big adjustment, 20% reduction on setting with the same problem. The second screw wasn't that far off recommended oiled thread adjustments. Also verify that the screws are correct size and thread. Turn one in by hand to see how it fits. Helicoil and loctite can work, but I'd try to avoid going that direction if possible. It is hard to turn back once you've used that method.
BTW, it is good to hear that the reeds still looked good. I have seen better reed life with these myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
heres an option. 4-40 screw with nut, instead of the 4-48 that threaded in to the cast metal. add red loctite and crank it, call her good enough? helicoils are spendy and putzier but i have used them with excellent results on magnesium chainsaw cases.
362069
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I ended up buying lightly used take offs heres why..

using nuts to hold screws where the cages were stripped out would have been a hassle since the inside of the cages arent flat at every hole location. so I decided to get the helicoils instead. i installed the helicoils without issue on the first cage then went to reassemble the reeds, but the screws were way too tight and bound up on the helicoils. I thought ok forget this.

The replacements full cages were $50 online auction, which is less than a set of 8 reeds alone. They look like new, problem solved.

but lesson learned, these little 4-48 screws strip easily on the thinner inner side of the reed cages.

also I noticed clear grease all around the reeds which must have been put there at the factory to seal. I cant find anything in the manual about it, wonder if it was silicone.
 
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