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Discussion Starter #1
on a 79 tigre i've been working on I recently got new seals and was curious of the proper way to install them

I plan on not splitting the case and just tapping the new ones in with a large socket but my main ?? is if I should be using any sealant between the case and the seal

I have never tried this before any tips or advice as always is greatly appreciated
 

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i never replaced crank seals this way, but i think i read on here that you can do this.
not sure if silicone is needed, i split my crank when i changed mine, didn't use any.

the new seals do come with a rubber coating on the outside, so i wouldn't think you need any.
 

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I wouldn't go that route, you can split the bottom halves of the case easily and replace a seal the proper way. Prying out the old one risks damaging sealing surfaces on the case and tapping a new one in is NOT a good idea, that has all sorts of bad thoughts pouring through my mind, warping the seal, distorting it, bending it, crushing, etc. Better to do it the right way, split the case, pull old seals off, put new ones on, reseal case with threebond.
 

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isn't there a centre seal or o-ring on most cranks that should be replaced too?
i know on my cougar there was a o-ring next to the gear for the oil pump, i had to stretch the o-ring over one rod to get it in place, fairly easy but ya need to split the case.

i would buy a complete gasket set and do it all at once.
 

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Bobcat. Not spliting the case is not recommended. However I just got done installing crankseals in my T1B440 motor and did not split the case. Couple of things....Clean, Clean Clean. I used a stainless steel tooth bush to get all the crap off the case mateing surface. Then carb cleaner and clean rags, clean the surface agin. I used my shop vac with a creavass tool to suck out any crap in the bearing area. I dryed the area with air and then used a wide model car paint brush and brushed in 3 bond sealer. I took the rib off the seal with a x-acto knife then over to the grinder, using the side of the grinding wheel and lightly ground it smooth. back to the engine and I use a body hammer to tap the lip of the seal into the engine. Then, more sealer around the circumference of the seal where it meets the block. Do not forget to pack the inner lip of the seal with grease. And I mean PACK IT...LOL. Have fun
 

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You should split the case when putting new seals in. Use 3 bond 1194 to seal the cases once the seals are in place. The seals should just slip on the crank and set it back into the case half then set the other on top with sealant on it. SHould be good too go. I think you got a suzuki motor rather thing a Kawi they did not have rubber seal center seals like the kawaski motors. Just make sure everything is clean and put back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I suppose I'll split the case since The motor is already pulled this way I can check inside and make sure everything is good

What kind of puller is needed to pull evrything off the mag side a harmonic balancer style puller or a 3 jaw style puller


also what should be the approx torque for putting the case back together

thank you for all of the feedback it is always greatly appreciated
 

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you will need a harmonic style puller, or a steering wheel puller.... needs to have 3 attchment points. The bolts are metric also. And a proper clutch puller to pull the clutch. If you have any problems pullin the clutch, let me know and I'll give you a tip on how to get it off.

Hondabond, yammabond, threebond.. are all pretty much the same, just don't use a silicone product for the case halves.As that will actually create a gap between the halves and bearings lose in the case.

Like posted earlier, a lil grease in around the inside of the seal, and a few dabs of the threebond around the outside where the seal meats the case halves after its put back together for good measure.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok so I got eveything pulled which wasn't as easy as I first assumed the water pump cover bolts were extremely difficult to break free had to use vice grips to break the outers lose and extreme patience to loosen the inners I think theywere alum because they wanted to strip easily

the old seals look to be toasted they were starting to crack and looked to be oval shaped so this will give me a little comfort knowing this is all worthwhile i've been cleaning and getting ready to reassemble just have to grab some threebond tommorrow

this grease that I should use what kind am I going to be using an all purpose, wheel bearing grease, white lithium. does it matter or is is just to help lube it for the install and initial start

also are there any torque specs for the bottom pan anyone uses or just get them tight and torque them all the same
 

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this will help.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thank you for the info I will try tre ams oil because there is a dealer down the block, andthose bolt patterns and torque specs are awesome I really apreciate it

I grabbed some gasket maker but the store I went to didn't carry threebond so a got permatex form a gasket 2 does this sound like a comparable alternative
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (teamgreen2 @ Nov 7 2009, 09:55 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I think you got a suzuki motor rather thing a Kawi they did not have rubber seal center seals like the kawaski motors. Just make sure everything is clean and put back together.[/b]
What exactly holds that center seal in its location? I've got a 76 Jag 340 and that aluminum seal is sliding side to side in the case making a terrible ticking noise. Is it supposed to be a press fit between the case halves sort of like the bearings are or is it supposed to have movement like that?
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Cheetah73 @ Nov 17 2009, 03:50 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Yes, supposed to be press fit when the cases are torqued. This is another reason why I preach about the 74 and later kawi bottom ends that have a steel dowel pin in there to prevent such a condition. The engineers wouldn't have changed design to have the pin in there for no reason.
Do you have a suzuki, or kawi engine in there? Only the first year of jag had the kawi engine(75?) and I didn't know the suzi-Qs had a similar design down in the depths of the power plant.[/b]

It's a Suzuki. I'd actually thought about retrofitting a dowel pin into it to hold it. It really wouldn't take much work, well, aside from taking the whole engine apart.
 

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drawing shows a pin(6) and 2 o-rings(7). Ya better tear it down and see whats going on
.
 

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Thats odd because this is the breakdown I get for it. And the crank on my Jag has the counter weights that looks like the picture I attached rather than a continuous diameter like the picture you attached.

[attachment=139452:Jag_Crank.Gif]
 

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No...and I am so sorry...that was 75 jag 340 Kawi...Heres 76 jag 340 Spirit. No pin. Looks like no o-ring either. Id still tear it down and look.
 

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Yeah I'll have to tear it down. The fact that it's sliding side to side in the case has got me worried. That can't be right.
 

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sorry for the mistake. I didnt go back and reread...LOL. What the hell is part 15? Some sort of spacer? Wonder if that puppy is worn out?
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (sixty8cat @ Nov 17 2009, 09:08 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
sorry for the mistake. I didnt go back and reread...LOL. What the hell is part 15? Some sort of spacer? Wonder if that puppy is worn out?[/b]

Hey not a problem. #15 looks like a collar the seal rides on or something. If anything there needs to be replaced the crank has to get split apart. Yippee.
 
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