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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off does the bmp coolant update make a big difference? I have an 03 F7. I plan on doing some mods and don't want to worry about temp.

Second, are the aftermarket heads with the larger coolant chambers worth it? If I put on the coolant update is that enough?

Third, has anyone ever shaved their stock heads for more compression? I plan on running a y-pipe, bmp stock pipe mod, timing key, pac system, and having my ecu reprogrammed to 06. I also only want to run premium pump fuel. I know you can safely up the compression on these sleds with no problems, but how much can you mill off the heads.
 

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Id say go for the better head. u can get high-compression heads with better than stock cooling, and keep ur stock head incase u want 2 switch back. If u shave the head take off around .01"-.02". Ithink thats what most guys do but im not totally sure. That seems 2 little but thats wut ive heard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Anybody else have any info? I want to hear from the guys who have the coolant update. Anymore blinking check engine lights? I know there are guys out there who have shaved their heads. Anyone want to share results? I dunno
 

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I did the coolant mod this summer because I put a 151 kit on my sled. I didn't really have coolant issues before but I figured what the hell I'd put this on just incase. I have never had my temp light come on yet. I can tell it runs a bit cooler but I tend to really whoop on my sled, so if your like me this will more than likely benefit.

What I suggest doing is finding someone parting out a 04 or newer and get there coolant res. and hose that connects to your thermostat. Just doing this will help (its exactly what I did and basically what you are buying from bikeman for 100, except your only spending like 50).

heres my write up on how i did it!

1 Basically you need to pull of your primary and secondary.

PS. this whole thing is hell of alot easier to do when to you take off your pto side (left) plastics, a good before starting is to get the front of your sled higher than your rear, its for when you drain your coolant so you don't have to purge the entire coolant system.

2 Next Take off your left side engine mounting bracket. So basically you'll have your left side of your engine dangling there. There should be 3 bolts that hold the bracket to the frame and I can't quite remember but 4 or 5 that hold the engine to the plate

3 With taking off your pto side bracket you'll have to disconnect your oil injection line and reconnect it, I did this pretty fast and checked for air in the line when re-assembling. You'll have to hold your finger over where the hose was connected or all your oil will be on the floor.

4 After you get all that off you'll beable to get to the thermostat housing bolts. Get a bucket ready cause you'll have most of your coolant coming out. If you just want to change that hose you'll just take off the hose clamp that holds the hose on and take off the end that connects to the coolant resivor. If your going to update change out coolant resivor and reconnect as needed.

PS its kinda a pain to guide the hose thru where the old hose was. So take a good look at where the old hose runs before you take it out.

5 Reassembly isn't the best either. You'll have to put the pto plate back on loosely and run the oil injection line back thru the plate (you'll see what I mean when you get it off). Then make sure theres no air bubbles inline, I did this by filling up the line by holding it underneath where its connected and basically getting oil all over me, then checking the line by holding it up in the air and allowing air bubbles to get to rise to the top. IF SOMEONE KNOWS OF A BETTER IDEA FEEL FREE TO CHIME IN!

6. After the pto bracket was installed, I left my 3 bolts the hold the pto bracket to the frame alittle loose and then adjusted my center to center on my clutches, the adjustment for this is on the bottom side of your pto bracket plate, it looks like a little rubber stopper. The measurement your looking for is 12.2 inches or 12 1/6 inches on F7 2003 models.

After thats done reinstall your clutches, 55 ft lbs for your primary, not sure what your secondary is but theres no need to put alot of torque on it. Check clutch allignment, adjust accordingly, and fill up coolant.

Run it check for leaks and I usually re-torque my primary just to be safe (after its warm).

Well hope this helps if anyone has something to add go ahead. Some of the no-brainers I left out.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (snoman820 @ Feb 7 2007, 01:42 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
First off does the bmp coolant update make a big difference? I have an 03 F7. I plan on doing some mods and don't want to worry about temp.

Second, are the aftermarket heads with the larger coolant chambers worth it? If I put on the coolant update is that enough?

Third, has anyone ever shaved their stock heads for more compression? I plan on running a y-pipe, bmp stock pipe mod, timing key, pac system, and having my ecu reprogrammed to 06. I also only want to run premium pump fuel. I know you can safely up the compression on these sleds with no problems, but how much can you mill off the heads.[/b]
i did the upgrade and added "water wetter" (i think that is what it is called?) at the same time and noticed a difference. likely worth doing but not a big difference.
 
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