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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

I'm doing the maintnance on my sled and I started wondering what should be done if anything to the clutch (s) I don't even reallyunder stand how they work, so I'm a little handicapped with terms etc. surrend

thanks.

John
 

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you will need to invest in a clutch puller for the drive clutch. on the driven clutch check it over for cracks, wear or anything that dont look rite. you may also want to check over the white rollers making sure they are not damaged worm or out of round. they are only like 3$ for the set. as to the primary clutch there are alot of things you may want to go over. check to make sure the sheaves are not grooved or cracked. the next main thing you will want to do is pull the weights out of the clutch and replace the bushings inside them. while there you may want to check the pins that hold the weights in to make sure they are not worn or grooved. finaly to check the rollers in your spider. make sure they are not warn flat or have any movement in and out. hope this helps
 

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How many miles can you usually get off the stock rollers?
Are any special tools needed to disassemble the clutch?
 

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it all depends on how things are set up but they should be good for a couple thousand. as for disassembly the driven clutch there is not really and special tools for disassembly but a spring compressore could save alot of trouble. as for the primary. you need a clutch puller to remove it. that same spring compressor could be used to remove the cover. as to remove the spider you need a special socket and i am not sure as to what it is called to break to spider free. you will probably need heat to break the loctite. also for the primary it would be highly recomended to get a fixture to hold the clutch
 

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Discussion Starter #5
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (03zr9 @ Nov 10 2009, 07:39 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
you will need to invest in a clutch puller for the drive clutch. on the driven clutch check it over for cracks, wear or anything that dont look rite. you may also want to check over the white rollers making sure they are not damaged worm or out of round. they are only like 3$ for the set. as to the primary clutch there are alot of things you may want to go over. check to make sure the sheaves are not grooved or cracked. the next main thing you will want to do is pull the weights out of the clutch and replace the bushings inside them. while there you may want to check the pins that hold the weights in to make sure they are not worn or grooved. finaly to check the rollers in your spider. make sure they are not warn flat or have any movement in and out. hope this helps[/b]

Thanks for the reply. I will start looking it over tonight for the obvious things you pointed out. I know the white rollers seem discoloured. I'm not usre if they have any flat spots. Do I have to worry about anything being sprung and crushing or breaking any fingers when removing the driven clutch?

Thanks.
 

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I recently removed my secondary clutch seemed to come off pretty easy once the belt was off and the bolt was removed from the end of the shaft. I used spray starter fluid and paper towels to clean up some oxidation on the sheaves.
 

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on the driven clutch you do not have to worry about anything being sprung when its removed. the only thing you have to be worried about being sprung is the cover on the clutch.
 

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To clarify, the only rollers are the metal ones on the spider. These should spin freely with not alot of radial play. The "bushings" in the cam arms or weights as they are called will wear and can cause the cam arms to come into contact with the spider. Just use a small socket or punch to push them out and use a smooth face vise to push in the new ones. If your bushings are worn badly, you will need to replace the pins as well. Don't forget to replace the washers that go between the cam arm and the clutch body.
As for the spider, the button to spider play should not be excessive but there is a spec for this. Invest in a repair manual as all of the info you need is in there. I don't ever replace the spider because by that time, the bushings and rollers are probably shot also. I just purchase a clutch without the spring or cam arms for around $250 to $280. Hope this helps.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (03zr9 @ Nov 11 2009, 02:55 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
on the driven clutch you do not have to worry about anything being sprung when its removed. the only thing you have to be worried about being sprung is the cover on the clutch.[/b]
You do have "stored energy" on the driven clutch because the spring is under both compression and torsion. Anyone who has remove the button / roller cover knows that it will "spring off" when taking it off. The cover on the drive or "primary" clutch only compresses the spring but it is stored energy nonetheless.
 
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