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I was just wodnering on how to change out the drive belt? I've never really messed with it before so if anyone could break it down nice and easy t hat would be great. I'm changing them on some `95 z 440 and a zr 580. Thanks a lot.
 

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Hello. Easy to do: Set park break, go to secondary clutch, grab inside sheave and turn backward while pushing in on it. Clutch will spread and then pull the belt out of secondary. Release clutch easily so it does not slam shut. Than pull belt off drive clutch
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (slick @ Jan 8 2007, 08:46 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Hello. Easy to do: Set park break, go to secondary clutch, grab inside sheave and turn backward while pushing in on it. Clutch will spread and then pull the belt out of secondary. Release clutch easily so it does not slam shut. Than pull belt off drive clutch[/b]
I use the same procces but have found pushing and turning on the helix cover of secondary tends to be easier then pushing on the sheave of the clucthes.
 

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I can't compress my secondary by hand due to the spring. I pull up HARD on the belt which forces the clutch open. Then I can turn the secondary clutch and peel the belt off the sheaves. The sled moves while you're turning the clutch so this works much better on snow than in the garage.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (scrat600 @ Jan 9 2007, 03:01 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I can't compress my secondary by hand due to the spring. I pull up HARD on the belt which forces the clutch open. Then I can turn the secondary clutch and peel the belt off the sheaves. The sled moves while you're turning the clutch so this works much better on snow than in the garage.[/b]
Same here..................quick n easy.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (zr sled head @ Jan 9 2007, 06:53 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (scrat600 @ Jan 9 2007, 03:01 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I can't compress my secondary by hand due to the spring. I pull up HARD on the belt which forces the clutch open. Then I can turn the secondary clutch and peel the belt off the sheaves. The sled moves while you're turning the clutch so this works much better on snow than in the garage.[/b]
Same here..................quick n easy.
[/b][/quote]


Me three!
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (MUSKOKA800 @ Jan 9 2007, 07:43 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (zr sled head @ Jan 9 2007, 06:53 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (scrat600 @ Jan 9 2007, 03:01 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I can't compress my secondary by hand due to the spring. I pull up HARD on the belt which forces the clutch open. Then I can turn the secondary clutch and peel the belt off the sheaves. The sled moves while you're turning the clutch so this works much better on snow than in the garage.[/b]
Same here..................quick n easy.
[/b][/quote]


Me three!
[/b][/quote]

YOUR QUICK N EASY???

LOL
 

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I was having a hell of a time installing the belt. I get it, you turn the moveable sheave clockwise (so rollers go off the ramps) and push in, but I can't for the life of me push the sheave in. I finally pryed the hell outta the sheaves with a wooden hammer handle to spread them. I have some muscle, but I can't even imagine a woman trying to do this to save her life, she would die.

Am I doing something completely wrong here?
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (WhiteHawk @ Feb 27 2007, 11:07 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Are the busings shot on your secondary? How long has it been since you changed those bushings... if they are badly worn, the sheaves would **** sideways causing difficulty separating them, additionally, they will cause you driveability issues.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (scrat600 @ Jan 9 2007, 03:01 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I can't compress my secondary by hand due to the spring. I pull up HARD on the belt which forces the clutch open. Then I can turn the secondary clutch and peel the belt off the sheaves. The sled moves while you're turning the clutch so this works much better on snow than in the garage.[/b]

I do it the same way, But to put it back on just have someone lift the track off the ground and spin the belt back on.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (sysanalyst @ Feb 27 2007, 11:23 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (WhiteHawk @ Feb 27 2007, 11:07 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Are the busings shot on your secondary? How long has it been since you changed those bushings... if they are badly worn, the sheaves would **** sideways causing difficulty separating them, additionally, they will cause you driveability issues.
[/b][/quote]

Could if feel if the bushing are shot? Like movement up and down?
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (GoFastCat @ Jan 8 2007, 09:15 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (slick @ Jan 8 2007, 08:46 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Hello. Easy to do: Set park break, go to secondary clutch, grab inside sheave and turn backward while pushing in on it. Clutch will spread and then pull the belt out of secondary. Release clutch easily so it does not slam shut. Than pull belt off drive clutch[/b]
I use the same procces but have found pushing and turning on the helix cover of secondary tends to be easier then pushing on the sheave of the clucthes.
[/b][/quote]

Agree, pushing on the driven clutch cover is easier than grabbing the inside sheave. Pretty easy on anything but the green driven from artic cat.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (WhiteHawk @ Feb 27 2007, 08:00 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (sysanalyst @ Feb 27 2007, 11:23 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (WhiteHawk @ Feb 27 2007, 11:07 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Are the busings shot on your secondary? How long has it been since you changed those bushings... if they are badly worn, the sheaves would **** sideways causing difficulty separating them, additionally, they will cause you driveability issues.
[/b][/quote]

Could if feel if the bushing are shot? Like movement up and down?
[/b][/quote]


This is best measured with a dial/digital caliper. Remove the secondary (one bolt - watch out for that key). Measure shaft using the outside jaws, and the inside using the inside jaws, the difference should be less that 0.005 inches. If more than that, probably time to rebuild that secondary (not that bad, much easier than a rebuild of the primary).

I'd suspect some experienced sled mechanics could rock the secondary "side to side" and tell if the bushings are toasted, but I prefer a more accurate assesment.

If you need a cheap digital caliper --> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=93293

Under $10.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (WhiteHawk @ Feb 28 2007, 05:12 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Oh, 0.005 clearance eh. I got micrometers, just gotta steal the t-gages from work :)[/b]
Steal some for me too... :tongue_nana:
 
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