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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had my sled together but i just didnt feel right about my chain case. The top shaft just didnt seam to fit right so i need some advice. i changed all but 1 of my bearings over to NTN bearings. All but one of the bearings fit so im using one old bearing. anyways compared to the drawing on browns leisure world i have the bearing in diffrent on the cog shaft because it seamed to fit better(the sleeve that protrudes from the bearing faces into the chain case). On the jack shaft i put the bearing's sleeve facing out towards the gear like in the drawing. it seams to be pulled over to far toward the chain case side. i had to re shim my secondary clutch by 2 shims and it needs another shim but there is no room. also when i pulled my chain case apart today i found metal shavings in there and it turns out my bearing on the cog shaft was spinning. i didnt have the nuts on the bearing retainer tightened to spec so i think thats why it happened. dosnt seam to have caused damage other then some wear where the bearing sits.

My question is do i have these bearings in the right way? and i missing a shim or somthing?
[attachment=59431:DSC01407.JPG][attachment=59429:DSC01405.JPG]
[attachment=59428:DSC01404.JPG]
 

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i remember right the bearing in the chain case have to have the protrusion facing out or the shafts wont line up right...or at least that was my experiance with them lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Shawn @ Jan 2 2007, 09:40 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Did you change the bearing on the PTO side of the drive shaft also? If so how well did it go together/fit?[/b]
It seamed to fit good on the other side of the shafts both cog and jack shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (ZRlover @ Jan 2 2007, 10:00 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
i remember right the bearing in the chain case have to have the protrusion facing out or the shafts wont line up right...or at least that was my experiance with them lol[/b]
thats what the pics show but for some reason on the cog shaft when i went to bolt it up like that it didnt line up properly, ill go over it again and see if it works, i drove about 100 miles on the sled assembled like this.
 

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I just did mine. Both bearings face in to the chain case like your top one is right now. Did you tighten the gear before the opposite bearing (behind the secondary)? That may cause the alignment issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
okay, bearings seam to be working out and i realized my clutch has to be moved out because my engine is further out. When i wrote this post i was frustrated with the chaincase on my sled and a few other things and comon sence didnt kick in which it should have since i have changed drive bearings on diffrent sleds before. anyways the only question i have right now is how tight should my chain tensnior be? i have never adjusted one before. in the manual it says finger tight but i can tighten it finger tight till i pritty much run out of threads
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
comon sence didnt kick in[/b]
Don't you hate it when that happens. I usually follow it with lots of 4 letter words.

The chain tensioner only needs to be finger tight. First make sure it is installed properly, both rollers outside. From the picture it looks like it is. If you're still running out of thread the chain may be streched and need replacement.

Hurry up, it might snow!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
when you say finger tight do you mean turn it till you can=t anymore or untill you feel risistance
 

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Tighten it until its tough to move any more with your fingers, then lock the lock nut. Like mentioned above, if you out of thread, the chain is stretched to it limit and needs replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
well it looks like i need a new chain then. my sled was geared down by the previos owner so that would also explain why the tensinor has less threads left. he went a toth or 2 down.
 

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On the bearings, I believe you want the locking hub, the protruding part of the inner race, to the gear. Make sure you check your gear alignment before you button it up, because you should not have any shavings in the chaincase. There is no reason for shavings if the gears are properly aligned. Even if the bearings have o-rings you can use RTV around the inner race, and out race too, on the tunnel side of the bearings, to help seal things up. Set your chain tension with the cover off and I think you will be able to see what it means to be finger tight.
 
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