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Discussion Starter #1
My 06CF7 has 9800 miles on it. Very well maintained and fast. I'm running 77g with Orange Primary, Stock Helix with Blue Doo RER secondary spring, and Shift Assist. Have been getting erratic shift RPM's. 7100, 7500, 7000, etc. Bikeman Stealth pipe likes to see 8-8100 rpm.
10" clutch will save me money. Simple swap and already have 036 belts.
Now the 10.4" sounds interesting. Other than belts, 046, what are we looking at? Grind the foot well brace? Do you have to cut out the belly pan and install a new deflector/protector? Is the offset different? Do you need more shims? Any other grinding? Any advice on 10.4 vs 10.4 heavy duty?
 

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I've had a ton of guys with worn out 10.4's come ask for the HD's lately... if you're getting the whole setup anyhow, I'd go that route. (If I recall it was only $50 more)
 

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I bought the 10.4 HD along with some other BDX parts. Kalebtimberlake offered to give me a discount but I happened to be driving from Apple Valley, MN to Rochester, MN to pick up my new boat (it's a Yamaha) so stopped at BDX on the way. They hooked me up with a 15% military discount as well.

I have yet to install the 10.4 HD clutch because I'm planning to buy the belly pan pieces and want to swap to black plastics anyway. I purchased the footwell brace I described in another post. It looks like an easy swap if you don't like the hammer idea. You can pick up a stock 10.4 clutch on EBay fairly cheap but I figured I may as well buy the HD while I was there, no shipping and a discount!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Picked up 10.4 HD today, with the rock rollers and 2 046 belts. What is the different footwell brace? I have not ordered the belly pan deflector though. When I ordered the primary last year, the replacement was a smaller diameter than the original. I hope that does not become an issue. Please, any other input would be appreciated.

Warning to others. If you have 3000 miles plus on your Crossfires and it is not shifting like it should. Pull off your secondary and completely dissemble them and inspect them.
 

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I bought a set of Rock Rollers as well. I'll look and see the other post I added where there is a pic of each fiche showing the difference. It was fairly cheap and seemed like a worth while swap to me rather than grinding or hammer modding the original brace. Between the new M-seat, 144" rails, and deeper track, I already have a night and day difference. I'm anxious to get the Formula X-1 kit and 10.4 HD clutch installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Got the 10.4 HD secondary clutch installed. Was also able to install the Rock roller too. I used a combination of grinder and hammer And about 2 minutes. Ordered the new belly pan deflector/protector today, but I think I would be comfortable running it without. Got the belt deflection set up. Ready rip. thanks to Matt at mcb performance.
 

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I have the same looking clutch on my 06 crossfire 700. My previous crossfire, on the secondary clutch, just had a normal bolt your would remove with a socket to take the secondary clutch off. This new crossfire has the same looking aluminum round thing with multiple holes in it and a threaded hollow center (As you have pictured above) How does one go about removing this as I am trying to change my act drive oil and for the life of me cannot figure out how to remove the clutch. I did not see any special tool in my tool kit. Thanks!
 

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I have the same looking clutch on my 06 crossfire 700. My previous crossfire, on the secondary clutch, just had a normal bolt your would remove with a socket to take the secondary clutch off. This new crossfire has the same looking aluminum round thing with multiple holes in it and a threaded hollow center (As you have pictured above) How does one go about removing this as I am trying to change my act drive oil and for the life of me cannot figure out how to remove the clutch. I did not see any special tool in my tool kit. Thanks!

There should have been a tool in the tool kit for removing the defection adjuster. I prefer the other style of adjuster, which uses a longer clutch bolt with a piece of aluminum on it to hold the adjustment shims. If you are going to stay with that style, buy the tool. If you want to switch to the other style, you should be able to get that adjuster out by using two round punches in the holes (or whatever else you might have laying around), using a prybar to turn it out.
 

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Has that been converted to the torsional style spring? If so I don't think you can just revert back to the stock aluminum block and shims.
 

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On the 06 CF7 you change the oil by unscrewing the bolt on the gearbox in the tunnel. Leave the secondary clutch attached and just unscrew the nut with a pan underneath. Then put the sled on the left side and fill 3 oz of diamond drive oil in it. Then close her up, put it back down, lift up the rear, start it up and run the track a mile or two. Then put another pan underneath, open up the bolt again, drain the fluid into it. Then put it on the left, fill her up with 3 oz oil again and close it up. Then you compare the brand new oil from the bottle with the two other oils you collected from the gearbox. All three should be identical in viscosity, feel between your thumb and index finger, look, smell, and there should be no particulates. If they are not identical you need to change oil more often. If there is particulates you need to open up the gearbox and have a look at bearings and gears. Keep the oil you collected and mark it date and what type it is (flush oil or oil you ran through last season), and then you can compare with next season's oil with same procedure. If everyone did this on their car they would save a bloody fortune and be confident in their car for a few hundred thousand miles more.
 
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