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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's been a while since I've been able to work on my bike but I'm still having problems. I got my bigger jets today so I started off with the 150 keihin mains just to see as I was still very lean with the 130 dyno jet mains. Did a plug chop and the rear plug was rich so I thought no big deal. I pulled the front plug and it was lean and I mean white lean. WTF. Also I noticed that when at idle and adjusting the fuel screws, the front cylinder would rev highest at 2 1/2 to 3 turns out but the rear one would rev highest screwed all the way in and hear no change in revs at 2 1/2 to 3 turns. I never left it like that cause it makes no sense and did the plug chop at 3 turns out on both. Any body have any ideas what the hell is going on with this bike?? Is it a carb synch problem? Does the synch tool only help adjust the fuel screws at idle? What about WOT? Something is messed up!!!
 

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Most people run different sized jets in the front vs. the rear. I would run a smaller jet in the rear and a larger one in the front and re-evaluate. You don't wanna go more than 3 turns out.

What you say makes total sense...the front revs highest at 3 turns out because that's richening the circuit up from it's lean condition. To the contrary, you're leaning up the rear cylinder by turning the screw in.

Go larger in the front and smaller in the rear and see what happens chief.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanx Sanny....but I think theres more to it than that. If the rear screw is at 3 turns out and I bring the front screw from 2 to 3 turns out, thats when it revs highest. But if I do it oppositely.... have the front screw at 3 turns out and bring the rear screw from 2 to 3 turns out, nothing changes. The only change is when the rear screw is all the way in. If the front screw is 3 turns out, and rear is screwed in, it revs highest of all. Today I pulled the carbs right out, cleaned them thoroughly, and lubed and disconnected the choke cable. Hope this will help me out but I didn't get it running as I put it back togther with the floats in wrong. Flooded the bike badly. Oooops. Fixed the floats but still couldn't get it started. Tomorrow I will find out if anything changes. If not, then probably a 152.5 in the front and a 145 in the rear. We'll see.
 

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I guess the thing I would do (aside from ensuring the chokes aren't stuck) is get the jetting close to where it needs to be on an individual basis. I wouldn't worry about trying to fine tune it with the PAS at this point. Get the jetting close, and then use the PAS to fine tune each cylinder. Right now you aren't close to being dialed in on either cylinder. One cylinder at a time, then get them dialed in with the PAS and you'll be set. Again, make sure the choke isn't stuck, then go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I would just like to add an update that after cleaning the carbs and disconnecting the choke cables, everything is operating normally!! I did another plug chop with the 150 mains in and the front plug was a tad lean and the rear was white lean. Which is good news for me...now I'm getting the same results as everyone else with the rear leaner than the front. Not like before I was getting leaner results on the front plug. So now just some bigger jets and I'm off to the races. Probably a 155 for the rear and 152.5 for the front. :beer_cheers:
 

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I just had the sam problem my front choke would stick open it would run so rich it would blow black smoke and it even hydrolocked the cylinder bang your head I pulled the cable out of the plungers and put it back together I wouldve been pulling my hair out if I had any seems good now :thumbsup: sounds like atrend I'm going to check kehin see if they make an on the carb choke lever for that carb.
 
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