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<div align="center">~~Carb Jetting Guide~~</div></span>


This is a step-by-step procedure for re-jetting a carburetor, in this case it is the stock Mikuni BSR36 SS carb on the DVX 400.


- The first step before you even begin to tear into the carb is to give your ATV a good cleaning, you do not the risk of dirt contaminating the carburetor or engine while you are working on it.

[attachment=94605:DSC00057.jpg]

- Next you must be able to get at the carburetor to work on it. This may involve removing fenders/side panels, fuel tank and air box depending on application.
For the DVX the whole fender assembly needed to be removed along with the gas tank to get full access to the carb.



- Now with everything out of the way its time to remove the carb to be worked on. If the tank wasn’t removed shut off the fuel and drain the carb bowl. Once the fuel has been drained unhook the fuel line and vent line from the carb, unhook the choke cable and throttle cable. Then loosen the carb boot clamps and remove the carburetor.


CHANGING MAIN JET


- The main jet controls the fuel flow from ¾ throttle to full throttle. A larger numerical main jet increases the fuel flow from ¾ and beyond.

- To change the main jet turn the carb upside down and remove the idle mount screw on the carb bowl and then remove the 4 screws on the bottom of the carb (see picture below). These screws are very tight so make sure you have a good screw driver or impact driver to remove them, or they will strip.
If you round out the head of the screw, dont worry just take a dremel tool and cut a slot in the screw to remremove it with a flat head screw driver.



- With the carb bowl off you now have access to the main jet (along with the starter jet and pilot jet). With a wrench hold the Main jet holder and unscrew the main jet with a flat head screw driver and replace with correct jet. Thats all there is to it so now you can fasten the carb bowl back on.

[attachment=94606:carb_guts.jpg]


ADJUSTING NEEDLE JET CLIP


- The needle jet controls the amount of fuel from ¼ to ¾ throttle positions. By moving the e-clip up you lean out the mixture and lower the e-clip richens the mixture.
The stock needle on the DVX is non-adjustable so an aftermarket needle will be needed.

- To get to the needle assembly remove the two screws holding the diaphragm cover on and beware of the large spring underneath it.

- With the cover off gently pull up on the rubber diaphragm and remove the slide. With the slide out of the carb take a pair of pliers and pull on the needle holder to take out the needle assembly. There is a tiny spring under the needle holder that can pop out so keep an eye open for that.



- Now that the needle is out you can make the adjustments needed. Just take note of the placement and order of the washers, spring and spacer are in for when its time to re install it.

- When putting the needle back in make sure it clicks into place in the diaphragm. Then put the diaphragm and slide back into the carb and put the diaphragm cover back on, be sure that the rubber seal is positioned right.




ADJUSTING THE PILOT SCREW


- The Pilot screw tunes the low end circuit of the carb from idle to ¼ throttle. Turning the screw out richens the mixture and turning it in cuts back the fuel flow, making it leaner.

- On the DVX carb the Pilot screw is located under a brass plug that needs to be drilled out and then take a self tapping screw and tread into the hole. With a pair of pliers pull the screw out which will bring the brass plug out with it. Now make the adjustments.


<span style="color:red">TESTING



- Now comes the fun part and seeing if your new jetting setup works properly. Install a new spark plug to do a plug chop. With the ATV up to operating temperature do a run at full throttle and then hit the kill switch and cost to a stop. Remove the plug and take a look at it, the porcelain on the plug should be a nice tan color, if not then some more tuning will be needed. A white plug indicates it being lean and black is rich, remember that this was done at WOT so is verifying your main jet. If that looks good then check your midrange (needle jet clip) and work your way down to idle making proper adjustments.


Thats all there is to it, and its pretty easy to do, infact the hardest job is just getting the carburetor out so you can work on it easily and getting it tunned properly. Feel free to add more info or suggestions for rejetting a carb.

:wheelie:
 

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[attachment=11610:attachment] thumbguy [attachment=11609:attachment]i found it here is a dyno jet troubleshooting guide it helped me greatly click on the page you want to view
 

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also remember to take your time cause if you dont and you rush you will screw something up or strip a screw so remember take your time it saves a lot of time in the long run!!!!!
 

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Great information!! Really helped. I might add that during reassembly of the needle and diaphram that you make absolutly certain that the order is exact and that the tiny little spring hasn't dislodged your assembly. :Bangin: If it does, your bike will not start. She runs like a champ now! Horsfalls here I come... Cat happy
 

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i just finished jetting my 06dvx for the very first time and this guide helped a lot, changing the jet and needle isnt the most difficult thing after you figure out what everything is and how to get it off. the hardest part is tuning it after. i have a big gun full exhaust wit kn air filter and using a 155 dj main and 3rd clip on the needle with 2 turns out on the mixture screw....this set up is differnet from what dynojet recommended, i talked to them on the phone and they told me to use a 130main which was WAY lean so i bumped it up to a 155 and it runs like a beast...o ya and buy 2 new plugs before you start so you can plug check after you ride it to make sure its not too lean or rich and watch the 4 little brass screws on the bottom of the bowl on the carb, they are tight as a nuns c*nt and EASILY strip


my bike ran really well at one point, didnt bog or sputter at all through all rpm levels, but when i checked the plug it was still on the white side, turned the mixure screw out a half turn and its looking better so make sure you do a plug check even after you think its running at full potential
 

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I just got a 2001 400ex...everything in it is stock...i had a couple friends ride it who all own 400ex's and they all said that something is messed up. It doesn't pull near as hard as what it should be. I can barely do a wheelie on it!!! At idle, it always stalls out unless I am giving it a little bit of gas. So it was suggested that i should try and rebuild the carburetor. I have knowledge of motors but I've never even touched a carburetor on a four wheeler. do you have any Carburetor Jetting Guides for a stock carburetor for a 400ex?
 

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can some one please explain why its necessary to take all the fenders off ? MG all your tiring t do is get to the carb.
 

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Would be nice if the pictures loaded.... a few broken links here....
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (remotruker @ Dec 22 2007, 12:22 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Would be nice if the pictures loaded.... a few broken links here....[/b]
Yeah some pictures were lost in one of the later forum updates. I'm not sure if they can be recovered or not but I will bring it to the admins attention. Unfortunatly I sitll dont have those pictures on my computer :(
 

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i have a quick question. i just installed my sw pipe on my 400 and rejetted but now im runnning real rich. do i just turn the air to fuel mixture screw in a quarter of a turn at a time until perfection or is it out im assuming to cut fuel down(leaner) to the carb i will tighten the screw and to (richen) add more fuel i loosen .right now im at 3 turns out from seated
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (rango726 @ Dec 24 2007, 11:43 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
i have a quick question. i just installed my sw pipe on my 400 and rejetted but now im runnning real rich. do i just turn the air to fuel mixture screw in a quarter of a turn at a time until perfection or is it out im assuming to cut fuel down(leaner) to the carb i will tighten the screw and to (richen) add more fuel i loosen .right now im at 3 turns out from seated[/b]
You are correct rango and turning the mixture screw IN will lean out the your idle to 1/4 throttle.
 

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can you elaborate on the leaning my idle out to 1/4 throttle. im retarded when it comes to this stuff. im slowly picking it up thanks to great posts like this.
 

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thanks for the info wyo but now i am soooo lost. lol i will have to read this a few more times to get it to set in. the jetting i used was recomended by speedwerx because of the pipe and the winter temps. now my atv is running great lots of power but like i said before its definately rich. im at 3 turns out im just wondering if i go roughly 2.5 is that cutting it too close. i get a little popping out of my pipe if i get on it and off of it quick. but my main tell is the fact that if i even idle my atv i stink of the fumes from it. which i dont get in the summer.
 

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im rich all the way through idle half and full throttle does that make any sense?? but i guess i cant say that for sure until i check the plug
 

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thanks wyo as i read and re read this it makes more sense. i will have to do this first hand to really learn it.and like you said dont guess. i really want to learn how to do this. i cant run to my dealer everytime i need to do this especially were im going to need to do it in the summer and winter. thanks again
 

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i installed a larger snorkel (napa autoparts radiator hose) and have a hesitation issue from idle to 1/4 throttle, would i need to install a larger jet? or can i just move the eclip to richen the mixture? im going to be putting a cdi box and a new k&n filter, should i just wait until then and rejet the main needle too? i ride below 1600ft so what a good starting point? sorry to sound like a newb, i have no carb experience, i tune my monte carlo on my laptop, lol!
 
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