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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Would LOVE to shorten the brake lever throw (travel before engaging the brake) on my new F. Anybody try this yet, or have any good ideas on how to best accomplish this? I'm thinking some kind of aluminum spacers/shims simply glued onto the end of the aluminum brake plunger. Anybody else have any different or better ideas? – Roy
 

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Put in a 2psi residual valve. Kinda like what they put on in 2002 on the SnoPro with the brakes in the tunnel.

~Fast
 

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after some research I found the caliper size and volume of the fluid is the same as the Wilwood, so maybe a Wilwood master could be retrofitted to work.

I'm with you, I don't like the new brake either, but I love the sled otherwise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I superglued 2 1/32" thick small washers together and then superglued them to the end of the aluminum brake lever plunger. Throw is about half what it was, and worked great on today's 100 mile ride at zero temps. – Roy
 

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I wonder if anyone makes an adj brake lever for the stock setup? Anyone know?
 

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Did you try bleeding the brakes just to be sure there was absolutly no air in the system? I dunno
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (jimster @ Feb 6 2007, 06:14 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Did you try bleeding the brakes just to be sure there was absolutly no air in the system? I dunno[/b]
No Jimster, I saw a post or two where someone did indeed to that, with no change in throw, so I didn't take the time to do that. Probably not a bad idea of course to consider trying that first. If anyone DOES try bleeding the brake, with improved (less) throw distance, please report back. – Roy
 

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Did 2 F6 and a F5 out of the box and WOW.....So I did my F1 and it came out just like my Sabercats....Just touch it and bang, you're in the windshield...That's why I just asked.....All 4 sleds were the same out of the box, so we decided to bleed them and still to this day there still great!!!!
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Roy T @ Feb 4 2007, 09:01 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I superglued 2 1/32" thick small washers together and then superglued them to the end of the aluminum brake lever plunger. Throw is about half what it was, and worked great on today's 100 mile ride at zero temps. – Roy[/b]
take your lever off and drill a hole through the little tab that hits the plunger and tap it to recieve a small machine screw and viola you now have an adjustable brake lever. this is very soft aluminum so it is so easy to do this, i am going to do it as i hate the throw on mine too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (jimster @ Feb 6 2007, 06:47 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Did 2 F6 and a F5 out of the box and WOW.....So I did my F1 and it came out just like my Sabercats....Just touch it and bang, you're in the windshield...That's why I just asked.....All 4 sleds were the same out of the box, so we decided to bleed them and still to this day there still great!!!![/b]
You're kidding... really? That much of a difference and improvement, both in throw distance AND how they seemed to work too??? Hmmm... NOW you've really got my attention Jim ol' buddy! Just might have to put that on my list of things to try this week. Of course with MY luck, I'll do that... it'll shorten the throw some more, and I won't be able to get my shims un-superglued, and my brake will be locked up solid... LOL... just been that kinda' season so far! – Roy
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Flamin'f, did you try to bleed your brakes first as per Jimster's suggestion above? – Roy
 

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ROY T....No BS.....I was at the dealer when he took out the 2 F6 and F5 and I just had my F1 there at the same time and we were talking about the brakes..LOL...So we tried on my F1 and Perfect!!!! So I helped him put together the 3 other sleds and the levers seemed to be the same as my F1 was.....So WTF, we tried one at a time and all done and great! He was happy as well as I was.....Now that's 4 sleds with air in the brake lines and that he's aware, both F6 are sold to very good customers and my F1 that I got off him are still working good. As far for the F5, I went for a rip with it last weekend to try out a 500 and the brakes were good...very impressed for a 500 though... :super_happy: Try it out and please let me know, I want to see if it works out for you as well..... :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
OK Jimster, you've got me convinced to at least give it a whirl. Nothing to lose, right? You just bled them as per the usual routine, as in the manual? Thanks again, as I take my brakes ALMOST as seriously as my throttle! I'll post back later this week. – Roy
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Oh... and I suppose I SHOULD remove my plunger shim kit to do this bleed job properly... right? – Roy
 

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I would remove the shim in case......As far for bleeding, be sure the master cylinder on the handlebars is full of brake fluid, remove the right hand side panel to access the brake caliper and the fitting is right on the caliper..... If you can get someone to pull on the brake lever a few times, hold it and then you open the bleeder screw very slowly, you should see som fluid and air bubblescoming out....Do this a few times to see if there's bubbles and stop when there's nomore bubbles BUT PLEASE be sure that your master cylinder reservoir still has brake fluid, not to run it dry.....Let me know how it turns out please. :thumbsup:
 

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I will try to bleed the brake too, but I still don't think it will be as good as the good ol' Wilwood was.

I may have to machine my own brake lever and make it adj.
 
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