I have heard on here that there are power losses low end and gains high end with bikemans billet head kits. just wondering if this is true I want to invest some money in my sled but not a lot and i want to keep it bolt on. Any ideas throw them out
I posted on this last week. I installed bikeman heads, near end of last season and felt as though I lost low end. BMP says I need to go up 2 grams on drive clutch weights (makes sense). Speedwerx stated that they don't even make a head kit for under 5,000 ft. elevation, claiming they didn't see any gains on premium pump gas. My post included my whole scenario of mods. If interested, chat back and I will respond. I'm still looking for anyone who rides under 5,000 ft. and has installed a billet head kit to respond on this issue... I love mods!!
i have bmps second stage clutch kit and inline fuel reducer. Anyway i saw your post last week so i called Jimmy at bikeman and asked him what the deal was with speedwerx not making them and he said not to worry cause all of there stuff is dyno'd on a water jet dyno that only nascar teams have. Just like you said he told me to add 1 or 2 grams of weight. But if you think about it, it should add power all the way through right? Im thinking about the heads and bmps pipe mod for my f6.. i need it to beat a 700 polaris
I've got all those mods done (timing key, reeds, bullseyes, big mouth intake, fuel reducer). The BMP stealth pipe was HUGE gain.. bigger performance gain than all other "bolt-ons" combined. No Y-pipe (not available for 600). Maybe my hopes were too high for the head kit, I did it one day after the pipe. Anyway, my cylinders at Bikeman getting an aggressive trail port done right now. Hope to have back by next week..
I'll assume that this 5-10 hp gain is not documented, just speculated?? pretty huge gains for those 2 mods. I've found that claimed gains by performance companies are about 1/2 of what they advertise. Just my experiences.....
Did you notice anything with the big mouth intake? my friend can make me one if i give him a couple bucks for aluminum. Do you have to run a boondocker with the stealth pipe and do you have a can? What would you suggest for my sled cause im thinking about either the pipe mod; stealth pipe; or heads
5-10 with high compression domes in high elevation riding, there is not hp gain on stock cyl. with billet head at sea level, tested on dyno and real world results does not flow better than a stock head
thanks for input, most of my research shows same thing.. the head kit should be a good compliment to the cylinder porting that is being done. Agree??
the pipe is unreal.. I did the stealth pipe instead of pipe mod (wanted stock pipe, just in case)... I have a D&D quiet can and don't see any loss in comparison to stock can (tested with both). I recommend you stay away from the Boondocker. Use that money to uprgrade clutching to match pipe. Also, timing key is very cheap and a good power gain as well. Keep asking and I'll give ya as much information as i can. Been on Cats for 15 of my 20 years of snowmobiling, and never ride em' stock..
Alright sweet deal thanks a lot cause i have plenty of ?'s. I have thought with pipes on a fuel injected sled you have to run a boondocker or it will melt down...also heard anything on a power authority controller?
I have the PAC kit on my sled. Don't know how much i gained because i did that with a lot of things at one time. It's set to 42 lbs. at WOT. I do know I will not be using it anymore (BMP claims i'll need to run stock fuel pressure, if not more with the cylinder porting). On the boondocker, I've heard of alot of sleds blowing with those (people get greedy and make the machine run too lean). Everyone that i've talked with has not said that the boondocker is necessary with all the mods i've done. My biggest concern is with the porting that is being done. BMP claims reliability with this mod, and I hope they are right, because i backpack travel through Canada, and UP... If all goes well, it should rip!!!
same thing... that's pretty much stock pressure. run the adjustment screw in (very small increments) until you are at 42 lbs. at wot.. I know this is safe because i've been running this way for 4 years... could go lower, but may be risky in cold, cold weather (like -40 in canada)...
get the pipe, timing key, clutching, and run 42 lbs.. You'll be very happy!!
i have the fuel reducer but not the ajuster thing for it just wondering is there even an ajuster screw on it? or are you talking about the one with the ajuster. with mine you ajust the pressure with those little nossels you screw in the end and it only came with a couple and they told me which one to run and its the one i have in