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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a weird grinding noise coming from the trans & I think that it is the bevels.

I jacked up the rear & twisted the rear shaft & it has about 1/2 " of play also rotated the wheels forward and I could hear icky sounds coming from that area!

I am confident that I could get the engine out & pull the bottom cover to inspect but have no idea how to shim new gears or set backlash.

Any suggestions on where I can take the engine to have the bevels replaced in central MN ?
 

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Can't give you anything nice. Just gotta break something.
:D:what:
Sent from something that types
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Lol hoping to figure it out soon !
 

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Good luck hope its nothing major. Isn't your bike still under warranty?

Sent from something that types
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No I didn't buy the extension
 

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I thought the bevel gear issue was fixed in 2010????
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
The gears themselves were updated to straight cut gears but new problems with the bearing retainers are arising as it seems

This is a pic of JGDurans

 

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Geez Dave I haven't even blown my bevels yet. I would pm sanny or arcticat21. Both replaced bevels and both are not too far away. P.S. high comp pistons would be a nice addition. You know since you're already going in there. Lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'll pm them. it still drives ,but I don't wanna ruin anything else. I don't think that you have to split the cases to do the bevels on the h2 just remove the engine & bottom plate
 

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I see you have 2010 model. You only have to remove the bottom case to replace bevels on that one since you already have straight cut gears. It really shouldn't be to hard to do. It's just getting the back lash set right. I set mine a little tighter than spec and it doesn't make anymore noise than the originals like some have stated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well im probably gonna tear into it this weekend & see what happens I gotta fix it soon 4 wheelin season starts soon lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It makes the most noise when you are in that area on the throttle not accellerating or decelerating

like floating
 

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If you wanna have a peak you can remove the area where the dip stick is mounted, after the oil has been drained that is.
You can then go through a rotation of the gear to see any damage that may have occured. There should be metal on your drain plug as well if things are getting nasty in there.
I don't recommend using your bike until it's fixed cause if the teeth bind that force has to go somewhere and that somewhere could be through your case. Good luck with your fix.
 

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I agree with Jimmy. I forgot about the dipstick cover. You can get a good look in there with that removed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yeah it's in the garage now gettin ready to take it apart I will take the dipstick housing off first to see where to go from there thanks for the advice!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Drained oil removed floorboards opened the dipstick area & had me a look

The bevels are fine there is not anything wrong with them as far as I cad see the teeth mesh well and are not chewed up at all.

So I decided to look elsewhere for the problem there is a lot of play in the secondary clutch

Take a look at the photos I gotta get a 37 mm socket to get the secondary off to see wth is goin on
 

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That belt is really sitting low in the sectary, i'm pretty sure that it should be flush with the top of it.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
That belt is really sitting low in the sectary, i'm pretty sure that it should be flush with the top of it.....
I have the secondary spread so I can turn it !
 

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Did you ever think to check the one way bearing on the wet clutch?That thing makes a hell of a bad noise when it's bad. From what you describe I don't think that's the problem but it's worth the time to check I think.
 

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Dave are you sure it's a 37 mm? I have up to a 36 mm if it isn't a 37. Let's pull the t cat or the 550 apart tomorrow so we can compare and see what is wrong.
 
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