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I changed my belt out on 07 700 efi at roughly 1500 miles. Everything looks good except for considerable amounts of belt dust.I replaced factory oem with dayco hpx at that time. I most recently pulled belt cover off some 1500 miles later and noticed the lack of belt dust and how clean it was( Rollers ECT). The after market belt is like new. The clutch faces look stellar! I would have to conclude that the relatively cheap Dayco belt stands up much better than oem with no downside! I recently purchased new primary c/w stages 1,2 . I did notice that the oem belt is much softer therefore bending Much easier than Dayco with aramid cords. I am wondering if i would be better off using oem in this app. due to extremely tight radius on new machined primary. Would be interested to hear from anyone whom has done this upgrade! Thanks!
 

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The Dayco will look fine until the day it snaps. Its a fine replacement but having a thicker section width, top to bottom, means more stress as it rolls through small diameter primary, the heat generated by the friction and the clutches themselves leads to the rubber failing...
 
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Did you measure the dayco belt?
 

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HPX measures about .040 thou. wider than OEM! I got your PM Thanks again! I will go with oem for this APP! Thanks Guys!
 

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Just hope it doesn't leave you 30 miles in the woods like my Dayco. I will never run anything but OEM ever again, no matter what it is. Ill never use an all balls product again either...
 

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I run the Highlifter 3GX and it's outlasted the OEM belts 2 fold. The Dayco XTX is the same belt as the 3GX. My 3GX/XTX is not quite as wide as the OEM belt Kawasaki calls for. However it was smoked numerous times before I finally change it. However it was still in one piece when I removed it. Plus the 3GX and the XTX have $15.00 one year replacement warranties. I keep two on hand at all times.

I'm usually the one to tell people to only go with OEM belts, however the 3GX belt impressed me. Keep in mind however my V2 has a different belt set up than other Arctic Cats.
 

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I run the Highlifter 3GX and it's outlasted the OEM belts 2 fold. The Dayco XTX is the same belt as the 3GX. My 3GX/XTX is not quite as wide as the OEM belt Kawasaki calls for. However it was smoked numerous times before I finally change it. However it was still in one piece when I removed it. Plus the 3GX and the XTX have $15.00 one year replacement warranties. I keep two on hand at all times.

I'm usually the one to tell people to only go with OEM belts, however the 3GX belt impressed me. Keep in mind however my V2 has a different belt set up than other Arctic Cats.
Im running a Thundercat not sure how different your belt setup would be from mine.
 

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I consider Dayco Belts junk for my wheelers. My OEM belt in my 2007 400LE lasted around 1100mi of pure abuse...lol...constant mudding, hard trail riding, and a ton of plowing and towing. The belt came off warn but still fine and i replaced it with a Dayco belt, which lasted maybe 100-150mi,or less than that even. The wheeler started to have some odd issues and went into a "limp" mode after the display was reading "BELT". I was going to replace it with a OEM belt, but the dealer did not have any in stock. I ended up going with a EPI belt and have been pleased ever since. I never did measure the belt compared to stock, but the machine honestly feels more powerful with the EPI belt in there.
 

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I consider Dayco Belts junk for my wheelers. My OEM belt in my 2007 400LE lasted around 1100mi of pure abuse...lol...constant mudding, hard trail riding, and a ton of plowing and towing. The belt came off warn but still fine and i replaced it with a Dayco belt, which lasted maybe 100-150mi,or less than that even. The wheeler started to have some odd issues and went into a "limp" mode after the display was reading "BELT". I was going to replace it with a OEM belt, but the dealer did not have any in stock. I ended up going with a EPI belt and have been pleased ever since. I never did measure the belt compared to stock, but the machine honestly feels more powerful with the EPI belt in there.
I do hear this alot but what people are failing to say is what Dayco belt they bought. Did they get the $60 one of the best $100 one?
 

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Im running a Thundercat not sure how different your belt setup would be from mine.
The 650 v2 has the Kawasaki 633cc engine in it, and the Kawasaki "grab and go" or "grip and slip" belt set up. Yours has a true CV (constant velocity) belt set up.

The grab and go set ups are more customizable, generally more performance oriented and arguably put more power to the ground. However they require more maintenance and are less reliable (in my opinion) than the CV set ups.


As I said though, I am impressed with the Highlifter 3GX/Dayco XTX belts. Have outlasted OEM two fold for me.
 

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The 650 v2 has the Kawasaki 633cc engine in it, and the Kawasaki "grab and go" or "grip and slip" belt set up. Yours has a true CV (constant velocity) belt set up.

The grab and go set ups are more customizable, generally more performance oriented and arguably put more power to the ground. However they require more maintenance and are less reliable (in my opinion) than the CV set ups.


As I said though, I am impressed with the Highlifter 3GX/Dayco XTX belts. Have outlasted OEM two fold for me.
Fred, I agree with your post So I'm not disagreeing or correcting you, I just tend to use different terminology. In belt driven systems, the CV means Continuously Variable and commonly abbreviated as a CVT for Continuously Variable Transmission. The actual geared transmission just provides FWD / REV & Low Range functionality. Not to be confused with a CV Joint on axles, The Constant Velocity Joint, or the CV Carburetor, meaning Continuously Variable Venturi <grin>

The Clutching action in the V2 system is via the belt where the primary opens enough to allow the belt to slip when at idle and grip when the RPM increases. When at idle the Primary is still turning. Slip and Grip, Grab and Go are common names to describe this setup. The slip and grip clutching via the belt tends to wear out belts sooner due to creating excess belt heat and requires periodic adjustment proper specification to prevent premature belt failure.

On the Tcat, other H1's and Suzuki engine based belt systems the clutching is provided by the internal wet clutch that disconnects the Crank from turning the primary when at idle. The primary pulley does not spin at idle. It is called the Dura-max belt transmission in cat literature. The belt is held under constant tension and should not slip at idle. Because the belt under normal circumstances does not slip the belt tends to last longer and develop less belt heat.

That all said while I've seen others with V2's or Kawasaki's report good experience with Dayco XTX belts, I've not seen the same positive reporting using these belts on the H1's, H2's and Suzuki based cats. OEM belts are always recommended by others???????
 
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Thank you very much for the info.

So I'm actually getting CVT mixed up, when it's actually the grab and go style?



And yes, I recommend OEM for anyone coming in with anything that isn't a Kawasaki engine. Even on the Polaris (which use a grab and go set up as well) I suggest OEM. The only reason I will tell customers or friends that I suggest the 3GX or XTX is because that's what I use and it has impressed me in my V2.
 

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Thank you very much for the info.

So I'm actually getting CVT mixed up, when it's actually the grab and go style?



And yes, I recommend OEM for anyone coming in with anything that isn't a Kawasaki engine. Even on the Polaris (which use a grab and go set up as well) I suggest OEM. The only reason I will tell customers or friends that I suggest the 3GX or XTX is because that's what I use and it has impressed me in my V2.
You are not really mixed up, Both versions are CVT, Continuous Variable Belt Transmissions. Just one is Grab and go, (like the V2) & the other is the Duramax belt system found on the H series and Suzuki's.
 
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