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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi we have a 2009 Arctic Cat Z1 BEARCAT XT.

It ran fine until 2 weeks ago it started back fireing and stuttering. We drove it back to the house but now it won't start.

I think the fuel injectors are the problem. I took the injectors out and the spark plugs out and turned the key.
The injectors spray out fuel but when i but them back in and check the don't spray it is wired.

Stuff i have checked:
there is spark
the fuel pump is working
relays are working
no fuse is blown
the injectors get 12Volts

I hope anyone can help me. Thanks in advance.
 

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Hi we have a 2009 Arctic Cat Z1 BEARCAT XT.

It ran fine until 2 weeks ago it started back fireing and stuttering. We drove it back to the house but now it won't start.

I think the fuel injectors are the problem. I took the injectors out and the spark plugs out and turned the key.
The injectors spray out fuel but when i but them back in and check the don't spray it is wired.

Stuff i have checked:
there is spark
the fuel pump is working
relays are working
no fuse is blown
the injectors get 12Volts

I hope anyone can help me. Thanks in advance.
Check the OHM reading on the injectors ... only way to tell if they are bad. You’ll have to ask the “google” for the proper reading ... went through this with a friends old Mach Z 1000 SDI. Leaned out, snapped a piston skirt off and it hammered it out though the crankcase.... All lead back to a bad injector.


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On most all injectors, they get constant 12v power, the pcm supplies variable ground (pulse width) according to the needs of the engine, based on what the sensors say it needs. TPS, MAP, BARO, RPM data
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Check the OHM reading on the injectors ... only way to tell if they are bad. You’ll have to ask the “google” for the proper reading ... went through this with a friends old Mach Z 1000 SDI. Leaned out, snapped a piston skirt off and it hammered it out though the crankcase.... All lead back to a bad injector.
Thannks for the tip. I just checked the resistance it is 9.3 ohms and 9.8 ohms and the manual says it shoudl be between 9.0 ohms and 12.0 ohms. So it is in the normal range. Any other idea what it might be?

On most all injectors, they get constant 12v power, the pcm supplies variable ground (pulse width) according to the needs of the engine, based on what the sensors say it needs. TPS, MAP, BARO, RPM data
Ok thanks i will check those but what does BARO stand for Baro? Barometric Pressure Sensor?

I don't have an Throttle Position Sensor (IPS) Adjustment Iool Kit, can i do it without this?
 

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I've been fighting something similar. Cranks over fine, I have fuel to the rail, have good spark, but no runny runny. Found some water in the fuel, thinking maybe it got to the injectors and froze?

Gonna heat the shop up & see if they'll thaw before pulling the rail & injectors.

2015 Pantera 7000
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok i will check that. Thank you.

I got it to run for a few seconds bei spraying starter spray diretcly into the injection area. If i keep the key turned all the way, i kind of runs but no really. If i let go of the key it dies.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Update:

We have the wrong spark plugs in the machine. Noticed this so late because we had it serviced in a shop and it ran for the last to years with those plugs. the right plugs are CR8EIB-9 and the ones in the machine are MR8AI-9 those are for the turbo version but we don't have the turbo version. we live in a very remote location so the plugs may take a while to get here. is the a big difference between those plugs ? I don't get why it ran for the last two years.

We have the snowmobile in a shed that i can't heat. But the outside temp. Went from -34°C a few days ago when i frist tried, to -3°C this morning. I changed 2 short pieces of fuelline because they were damaged. i had a look at the fuel filter and had it our too. I dranied the fuelline. And the bearcat started right up and i let it run for a few min. But i noticed it runs only on on Cylinder the PTO cylinder.
 

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How many miles are on the sled? Can you check compression? Could we have a valve issue? The plugs shouldn't be enough of a problem to cause a no start. Try switching parts from the live cylinder to the dead one, to see if the problem moves. We need a process of elimination here.
 

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By parts, I mean the external parts, nothing inside the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for your reply. The sled has 5680 miles on it. This morning i took a ratchet extantion put it through the air in take and knocked a bit on the valve and made sure everything is wired correctly and checked the coils resistance they are both at 1.4ohm. I then started it and it ran on both cylinders. So it could be a valve thing.But now it is running on one cyinder again. I will start an elemination process in the morning by switching the coils and plugs. What else would you suggest?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Update: It is something with the fuel injetor. One is not working or only sometimes. Should i try to clean it or just order a new one?
 

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Do you know any mechanics in your area? A noid light will test the pcm circuits to see if the problem is the injector or the electrical system. It's a simple light that takes the place of the injector. You compare the flashes between cylinders, they should flash the same. If they do, it's the injector. Maybe you could borrow one?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update: i got it fixed. It was a stuck switch on the handle bar by the throttle. runs good now. Thanks everybody
 
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