<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Borat @ Jan 23 2007, 11:22 PM)
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (CFM-Z440 @ Jan 23 2007, 02:31 AM)
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Borat @ Jan 21 2007, 02:40 PM)
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (CFM-Z440 @ Jan 21 2007, 02:56 PM)
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I just thought of something...
Your idea will not work. The choke comes on when the temp of the wax inside it drops. It uses power sent to it from the engine to heat the wax which will slowly shut the choke off.
I would just leave it be. It doesnt harm anything in my opinion. I work on them for a living, and I have yet to have a problem with one that wasnt caused by someone removing it.[/b]
You are correct in saying that my idea will not work. I had already pointed that out a couple of posts back. As far as the chokes not causing problems, in all due respect, you're wrong. Having a device that activates when it shouldn't (i.e. when the engine is warm) is, in my opinion, a poor design. Having to wait a minute or more for engine rpm to drop before I can shift into gear as a result of the choke being engaged, is to me, ridiculous. Imagine getting in your car to drive to work but the transmission will not engage because the engine is revving at 3500 rpm! Would you consider that as being acceptable? Another aspect of electric choke failure is that if the choke malfunctions, it will stay permanently engaged thus causing the engine to run rich. This will have a negative effect on engine performance and will also contribute to excessive fuel consumption. Electric chokes do malfunction.
Now, since you seem to know something about the electric choke, will the choke (enrichening system) effectiveness be eliminated if the choke is removed? If the choke is removed, would covering the hole with JB weld be all that is needed to seal the system? Also, there is a primer on the carb. In lieu of the choke, will the primer be sufficient for cold engine starts?
Thanks.
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Depends on how cold you are talking. With nothing more than a primer, it would fire and then die if used in cold weather. I think it would be pretty unforgiving in any climate, because you would have to let it warm up before you could go anywhere. If you hit the gas it would just die.
If you want a real fix, get a carb for an older model like an 04' They still had a cable choke. There were really no other significant changes in the carb than that. You would also need a cable and lever setup for an 04'
I have never had trouble getting one in gear from the choke operation unless the idle setting was set too high. It sounds to me like you have somewhat of an extreme case, or your idle may be set too high. I bet if you turn your idle setting down just even slightly, you will be suprised in the difference it makes.
Arctic Cat was simply trying to make them idiot proof with out the expence of fuel injection. They lisen to the wrong group of complaints in my opinion. Also the only time the enrichening valve/choke makes any significant difference in the fuel mixture is when the throttle is closed. Once you are moving it has little to no effect. So that throws poor performance and excessive fuel use out the window.
So in my opinion it is not really a problem.
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With regard to setting the idle screw, that goes without saying. If the freaking choke worked right, I wouldn't constantly adjusting the idle screw.
Try adjusting your idle mixture screw to 2 1/2 - 3 turns out then set your idle speed with the engine warm at the recomended rpm. You should not need to mess with the speed all the time then
Pardon my ignorance but would you please explain how leaving the enrichening circuit engaged will not have an effect on fuel consumption or performance?
Yes, when the throttle is open there is much greater air flow. The fuel added from the enrichening valve is combined with some air of its own, and the enrichening fuel circut is restricted to a pretty small hole. So when the throttle is opened there is no more additional fuel from the enrichening circut then their would be at an idle, which is very small ammount of fuel. This has little to no effect. The stock jetting is on the lean side anyway, so it certainly does not hurt. You might want to do a little homework in this regard.
You might want to do the homework, I deal with this type of stuff every day! and not just on a Arctic Cat!
Below is a quote from a site that works with CV carbs. I've posted the full version previously.
4) Eliminate automatic choke. Most of the GY6 scooter engines seem to come equipped with the Keihin style CV carburetor with automatic choke. In theory, this is a nice feature - the choke turns on by itself when needed and then shuts itself off - assuming it all works properly. Unfortunately, the automatic choke on these carbs seems to have a tendency to stick ON at times. As a result, the air/fuel mixture will be way too rich. This KILLS performance.
This is a pretty generalized quote, and yes, it will kill performance in the low throttle ranges, but at WOT it will not be really noticable
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Look man, Im not trying to say that auto chokes are gods gift to atv's! But they are not quite as bad as you guys describe! If you want to get rid of it go right ahead. Do a write up on how to do it. People will love it! But the auto choke has not been troublesome enough to go to all of that trouble (on a stock machine) in my opinion. I mean for christ sake, it is a
Utility ATV not a race quad!