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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone got Kroms parts list for the conversion on 800's to the Yamaha/7000 style manual adjuster
 

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Anyone got Kroms parts list for the conversion on 800's to the Yamaha/7000 style manual adjuster
I used the parts from the 6000 R SX:
1702-519 adjuster
2602-544 tension spring
2602-465 chain adjust block
2602-735 chain adjuster bolt
0123-150 jam nut
2602-707 adjuster bolt spacer
 

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I used the parts from the 6000 R SX:
1702-519 adjuster
2602-544 tension spring
2602-465 chain adjust block
2602-735 chain adjuster bolt
0123-150 jam nut
2602-707 adjuster bolt spacer
and a fresh 3602-079 updated case seal
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Hugh, I printed your list
 

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Discussion Starter #6
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Thanks Rusty
I tossed the torx head screws and went to Fastenal for fasteners and external star lock washers. These cases and covers are so touchy I snugged them up and gave them only 1/4-1/3 extra turn with 1/4" drive ratchet. The new gaskets can be a bit long for the cover groove so I throw mine in the freezer beforehand.
 

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I tossed the torx head screws and went to Fastenal for fasteners and external star lock washers. These cases and covers are so touchy I snugged them up and gave them only 1/4-1/3 extra turn with 1/4" drive ratchet. The new gaskets can be a bit long for the cover groove so I throw mine in the freezer beforehand.
Good call on the new bolts and star lock washers. The stock torx have a tendency to strip on me, seem soft, and some socket bits don't fit them well since the head is shallow.

Cover gasket is inexpensive to replace. New ones are silicone (orange), old ones are nitrile (black). Worth swapping out for a few bucks.
 

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When you put the gasket in, most guys start in one spot and push it in by sliding their finger around the groove.. This stretches the seal as you go and it ends up seeming too long.
FWIW I haven't seen a newer auto tensioner fail. If yours has the philips head pins, and the plastic slider shoe wraps completely around the pin, it is the latest design.
 

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When you put the gasket in, most guys start in one spot and push it in by sliding their finger around the groove.. This stretches the seal as you go and it ends up seeming too long.
Had that exact issue with the seal. Push it into a couple corners and then go back and press the seal in. Takes a bit of tinkering to get the seal lined up correctly but once it is in place it should stay there.

What year did they update the auto tensioner? My 16 has a bit of wear but still looks really good at 3500 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Had that exact issue with the seal. Push it into a couple corners and then go back and press the seal in. Takes a bit of tinkering to get the seal lined up correctly but once it is in place it should stay there.
Racers trick when the gasket gets too big , put a rubber glove on and hold an ice cube in your fingers and rub the seal with that, it shrinks it
 

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After seeing how the adjuster is put together, I can see how engine reversing can be hard on it.
The chain in forward pulls the lower sprocket cleanly, and the adjuster is on the "slack side". In reverse it pulls on the adjuster side. I watched a guy trying to back up with a skidoo, the track was on some ice, the rider had one knee on the seat looking back. Well the track was spinning backwards and he was reving the heck out of it.....then it caught, and the sled jerked backwards hard and fast, he almost went over the handle bar. After giggling to my self, I thought about the shock to the adjuster and how it is really designed to do its job with the chain going forward more than backward.
I now treat reversing very cautious and more gentle than ever.
 
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