Arctic Cat Forum banner

1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
2009 arctic cat prowler 1000. Well I gotta ask now. This mfer ran really strong when I test drove and bought it and drove a bit. Well it started smelling hot, so I did a bit of troubleshooting and found out the coolant is low. So I opened it up and did some major burping to the system.

Finally I put the cap back on and went for a ride. Now no power hardly at all. What should I check for? Is a belt gone? Clutch? Sounds like it's bogging like the power would be going somewhere and it can't be the brakes because it rolls to a stop.

I've already pulled both injectors and watched them spray. They look good. Pulled a sensor (IAT?) On the intake and cleaned it.

I'll also add in reverse or low before and barely tapping on the accelerator you would get thrown around with power. Now not so much. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Ok so here's where i stand. I have no codes and the prowler is low on power. It doesn't stumble. It runs completely fine. It just doesn't have the raw power that it did. It runs like our polaris 500 now....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,921 Posts
Did you check your oil to see where the water went? A temp fixed head gasket might have let loose. Do a compression test.

Download a free manual and start the process.

Either something that was temp fixed let loose (somebody jammed you), something you did during the 'burping' process created your problem (there is that self inflicted thing I mentioned before) or something legitimately broke or failed coincidentally the day you bought it.(bad luck)

What did you do to burp it?

What else, if anything dos you do to the bike?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
The oil looks fine. I found the water leak, so that's a good sign.

I was thinking a head gasket let loose and of course causing low compression, but wouldn't it run like crap or misfire or something? That's why i haven't done a compression check on it yet, or was worried about it much.

Which manual do you recommend for compression check? I was going to check the fuel pressure next. What pressure should i have on KOEO and running at WOT?

As far as getting the rod I'm pretty confident that didn't happen, but is possible. I was thinking when i was trying to burp the system introducing ambient temperature water into the block caused damage, but like i said it runs absolutely fine, but without the power that it had.

As far as adding water i just started it on an incline and ran it and shut it off etc. The water did burp, but was also steaming which led me to believe the block didn't really have much (or possibly any) water flow through it. I'm sure it overheated, but i did not get an indication. I wasn't too worried about the overheating effects, because the buggy never ran like crap at any point.

As far as i can think i haven't done anything extra.

I do know temporarily it was ran without an inline filter and the vent on top of the fuel tank is broke, so i know it got contaminated. That's why i pulled the injectors to check the spray.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Also what numbers should I see when checking compression? I believe I'm about to get a kit and check it out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Ok here's where i'm at now. Fuel pressure is about 45psi. Front cylinder compression is at 65 psi and rear cylinder is at 157 psi.

From what i've read it looks like i have a valve issue or headgasket issue on the front cylinder. Thoughts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
895 Posts
Ok here's where i'm at now. Fuel pressure is about 45psi. Front cylinder compression is at 65 psi and rear cylinder is at 157 psi.

From what i've read it looks like i have a valve issue or headgasket issue on the front cylinder. Thoughts?
Those compression numbers are good.
Per the 2014 book
Hot engine Front 125-145, Rear 165-185
Cold engine Front 80-120, Rear 150-190
When I checked my 2014 1000 ATV I got 55 in the front and 155 in the rear cylinder.
I first thought I had an issue but after doing some research decided those numbers were OK.
There is a compression release built into the front cam so a compression test is not easy to do
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
895 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Ok and yes. It ran like a damn rocket until I found out it was leaking water and I added to the system. Introducing the ambient water to a hot engine is what lead me to believe that caused the problem.

As I stated before it starts and runs fine, but doesn't have the rocket power.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Well i was thinking something similar to a "limp" mode, but with these machines i don't know what can cause them. Especially since there are no codes present.

So far I've only changed 2 fuses. One was the low beams and the other one i have no idea what it went to, but for troubleshooting's sake i replaced it. I did drive it right after also and the fuse did not blow.

Next on the list is fuel filter, spark plugs, and wires.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Damnit i just looked and i messed up. I did a compression check without being at WOT. I guess the numbers are really good for not being at WOT, but i'm going to have to do it again.

It is an XTZ in case it makes a difference.

Anyone have a link to the "leak down test"?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
895 Posts
There is not limp mode that I have heard of.

What RPM's are you running?
Maybe broke a spring in the secondary or something that is not allowing the clutching to backshift
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
35,736 Posts
If you turned one of the diodes around in the fuse box it will act like the reverse limiter is on
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
35,736 Posts
I figured !! :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
895 Posts
Maybe post a video from the drivers seat.
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top