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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I seem to have problems with the bushings in the rear spindles not lasting very long. The stock ones lasted about 3500 miles. I bought a set of those white plastic bushings from a member here and they seemed good for a while but now at 4500 miles they are in need of replacement. I'm sure my tires don't help because of the added stress. Outlaws are heavy and aggressive. Anybody know of any better bushings out there? I was thinking maybe brass or something may last longer but I don't know. Any pointers let me know. thanksI dunno
 

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Wow! That's some wear and tear! How did your metal 'bearings'(sleeves) look when you changed from factory to aftermarket bushings? Were they rusty? Pitted? How did the new bushings fit in your a-arms? Slip fit, hand pressure fit, or interference fit? How did the bearings (sleeves) fit in to the new bushings? Did you use grease? What type? Where? A lot of questions, I know, but they have to be asked. Let me know, and I might be able to help
 

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Who did you get these "white plastic" bushings from? I checked my records and see that I never sold you any of my bushings.

As far a anything better, UHMW bushings are much better then the OEM bushings and brass would be way to soft. Bronze would be good but pricey as hell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I think it was Sanny or something like that. He sells alot of them and they look to be way better than the stockers but something went wrong with mine. They pushed in by hand but I figured that was normal cuz I took the originals out by hand. The metal sleeve looked fine. Did have some rust on them but they cleaned up easy. I also used some of my marine grease for my boat on them when I installed them. Figured that grease would be better since it's made for water. Like I said I think the white plastic bushings are a good design but I don't know what happened. One side is so bad that I just put one of my original bushings back in so I can use the machine till I get new ones. I just figured it was because of the heavy luggy tires.I dunno
 

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I can't speak for Sannys bushings, I've never seen them. I have a set of rtr's, and from a material and engineering standpoint, they are solid. I have made bushings in the past out of Delrin (similar in appearance to rtr's, but not as durable a material) and they have lasted (so far) for 5 years of abuse in a little 110 Chinese atv my son beats on. I plan to do a one year follow up on rtr's bushings, and I expect they will hold up well. I don't know how much another set of stocks will cost, but I suggest you give rtr a try. Even if you only do the rear knuckles, the price and service would be worth it, IMO.
It sounds like your a arms and sleeves aren't worn out, and your installation was done right- so all that's left is the bushings. I haven't heard anything negative about either rtr or sanny.
Btw- the sleeves are just a hair longer than either the stock or aftermarket bushings and are meant to be sandwiched very tightly in mounts, so crank em down tight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If I remember right when I got the new bushings i was thinking that the steel insert that came on my machine didn't fit the new plastic bushing very tight. I remember just sliding the steel insert right in the bushing. Maybe my steel inserts are worn. Maybe I should buy new steel inserts and then buy a new set of bushings and try again.
 

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The bushing should be tight in the a-arm so it doesn't move. The sleeve is knurled on each end to stop it from spinning. Don't over tighten it or you will distort the frame mounts. 40 ft lbs with a torque wrench is the correct method.(see manual) The bushing spins on the sleeve as the suspension flexes. If it is in the budget use new sleeves. Its not just the surface but the knurls on the ends can wear out as well. The material that Rick uses is the same as Sanny. Rick will have to speak to the tolerances and if they are the same. Rick??
 

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The tolerances are tight- I believe he quoted me .005- sounds like new sleeves and bushings are in order for the rear of your quad
 

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My bushings were designed intentionally to be a tight fit so as to eliminate slop that would initiate premature wear. With that said, you may need a press or vice to get them pressed in without damaging the bushings.

I make these bushings myself, they are not farmed out to another shop and I monitor the sizes very close. My size tolerances are (+/- .003) anything more then that takes a trip to the trash can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I ordered a new set from Rick so I will give it a try. This time I also ordered a new set of the steel pins that go through the plastic bushings so I will have every thing new. I wonder if putting grease fittings in would help?
 

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I did- the bushings are so snug, in my install they wouldn't take a lot of grease. One of two things is going to happen-the new parts will eventually wear in together and take more grease, or not. If not, I'm good with that. If grease can't get in, not much else can either. I did coat the sleeves inside and out with marine grease before assembly. I put grease zerks in all the ball joints and knuckles as well while I have it apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I did- the bushings are so snug, in my install they wouldn't take a lot of grease. One of two things is going to happen-the new parts will eventually wear in together and take more grease, or not. If not, I'm good with that. If grease can't get in, not much else can either. I did coat the sleeves inside and out with marine grease before assembly. I put grease zerks in all the ball joints and knuckles as well while I have it apart.
did you use the self tapping grease fittings or did you drill and tap the holes?
 

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I drilled an tapped mine also. I wrapped the Sanny bushings with pop can material to make up for the difference of no more paint in the a-arms. If you know what I mean. Still nice and tight with 2700 km on them.
 
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