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Well I've finally gotten all the parts together and the weather has been nice enough where I can start on my own AGLT and long-travel skid mods.

I've been wanting to do this ever since I read AG's thread a year or so ago.

Bear with me as this is a work in progress and I'm not what you'd call "skilled" in the metal fabrication department =)

Over the last few months, I've slowly been working on the skid/rear suspension. It's out of a 2000 ZR 600 and was in good shape except for a couple of wallowed-out holes. I took it all apart and painted the arms GREEEEEEN, and replaced a couple of bearings, wheels, and a handful of other parts like spacers, washers, the front shock axle, and the spring retainers.

[attachment=151963:new_skid...together.jpg]

It's coming together, but I'm waiting on my metal fab guy to finish plasma cutting some metal braces that I'm placing over the spots on the skid frame that are wallowed-out (see the blue highlights).

[attachment=151965:Skid_Fra...ighlight.jpg]

I took apart the steering rack and moved all of the upper rubber washers to the lower parts. It's a cramped job, but I think I got a little height out of it. I was going to move the steering rod to the front of the support arm, but realized that I would have to remove the air box in order to pull it out. After half an hour searching for how to remove the air box (what the hell? how?I dunno ) I gave up and decided that the handlebars are OK where they are. Maybe some other life :p

[attachment=151957:steering...ssembled.jpg]

The new a-arms all nice and painted. Ran out of green paint, so went with black.

[attachment=151960:new_a_arms_painted.jpg]

Here are the front suspension pieces all reassembeld. Note the cutouts in the spindles with that "artistic" flair. It's amazing that a guy can't do better with a hacksaw, saber-saw, and a cutting wheel :D

[attachment=151958:new_a_ar...mbeld_01.jpg] [attachment=151961:new_a_ar...mbeld_02.jpg]

This is when you really appreciate a good metal fab shop and tools. I'd kill for time on a mill!
 

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Yes, I think it can be done up to 1999, but there were some models already with the longer travel front suspension, so I'm not 100% sure.

I'd ask in the AGLT thread.

As for cost, my 2002 ZR CCE front suspension (complete from shocks, tie rods, a-arms, spindles) were $400, used track was $125, skid frame and rear suspension was free (buddy bought a used one and gave me his old one), but I'm guessing I could have found one for $200. Spent around $80 so far in new A/C parts for various things. Paint, tools, etc always adds a bit.

So total is ~ $700 - 800 for me, $500 or so for just the front -- but that really depends on what you are doing and how much effort you put in to getting used parts.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (blasikov @ Mar 29 2010, 08:07 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Yes, I think it can be done up to 1999, but there were some models already with the longer travel front suspension, so I'm not 100% sure.

I'd ask in the AGLT thread.

As for cost, my 2002 ZR CCE front suspension (complete from shocks, tie rods, a-arms, spindles) were $400, used track was $125, skid frame and rear suspension was free (buddy bought a used one and gave me his old one), but I'm guessing I could have found one for $200. Spent around $80 so far in new A/C parts for various things. Paint, tools, etc always adds a bit.

So total is ~ $700 - 800 for me, $500 or so for just the front -- but that really depends on what you are doing and how much effort you put in to getting used parts.[/b]

Nice work!
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
would it be advantagous to do this on a 98zr600 le? if so how much $ will i expect to spend? thanks alot!![/b]
It wouldn't be an AGLT mod on your 98, however you can directly swap any 2000+ ZR front suspension and shocks onto your sled to gain extra travel... I am in the process of buying an 02 front end and shocks for my old girl.
 

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And and some more work today. Finished up the other side's front suspension and installed the torsion bar, tie rods, boots, etc.

[attachment=152022:new_a_ar...mbeld_03.jpg] [attachment=152021:new_a_ar...mbeld_04.jpg] [attachment=152020:new_a_ar...mbeld_05.jpg]

There's no great spot to mount the remote reservoirs for the front shocks, but it'll work. I love love love how it's turning out!

Also did some more re-assembly of the rear suspension and skid frame. This first pic is a close-up of the metal plates I put on to patch the wallowed-out hole where the rear shock/idler wheel/spring retainer shaft mounts. I still have some bolts to put on to add some strength.

[attachment=152019:new_fixe...me_holes.jpg]

Just a few more parts and this bad boy will be ready to be mounted in my new track!
[attachment=152018:new_skid...gether_2.jpg][attachment=152017:new_skid...gether_
3.jpg]

Next step is to prepare the tunnel with new mounting holes.
 

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Lookin' good! :thumbsup:


I'm also looking for your ride report next winter... After you become accustomed to the New & Improved handling!

:chug:
 

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Yeah, I hear ya!

It's crazy how we sledders are over-fascinated, obsessed, 'absorbed' by sleds & sledding for 3/4s of the year and only get to use them for 1/4 year.

Any other logical critter would forget about them a couple weeks after the snow is gone and move on to other things.

But not us! :lol:
 

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so is it because mines a le that it wouldnt work??i have the fox adjustables on it<<<so a o1 zr front will work>>>>hmmmm which will be easier???any way you are right ag i have rode quads, motox, three wheelers all my life this is my first full season of sleddin and now i dont wanna do anything else!!!!weird! ;)
 

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It's not because your sled is an LE that the AGLT will not work - AGLT refers to AG Long Travel, and is meant for older ZR/ZRT's which are on a different chassis than your 98 ZR.

If you were to swap a 00+ ZR front end on your 98 you would not be getting an AGLT mod, you would be getting a ZR3 sled which is the same as your ZR2, only with longer a-arms and shocks... ultimately you are getting more travel.
 

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Can you get more usable travel on a 2000 t-cat by switching any parts?
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (tcat446 @ Mar 30 2010, 04:51 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Can you get more usable travel on a 2000 t-cat by switching any parts?[/b]
Might be able to use a 19" or 19.5" shock but still requires double-checking the outer tie-rod ball joint for binding at full extension of the suspension.

Even though a longer shock has more overall travel, it also may have an undesireable effect of bringing the compressed bottom out point closer to the normal ride height... Because a longer shock will also be longer when fully compressed.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (A G @ Mar 30 2010, 07:24 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (tcat446 @ Mar 30 2010, 04:51 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Can you get more usable travel on a 2000 t-cat by switching any parts?[/b]
Might be able to use a 19" or 19.5" shock but still requires double-checking the outer tie-rod ball joint for binding at full extension of the suspension.

Even though a longer shock has more overall travel, it also may have an undesireable effect of bringing the compressed bottom out point closer to the normal ride height... Because a longer shock will also be longer when fully compressed.
[/b][/quote]

Good point!
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (tcat446 @ Mar 30 2010, 08:14 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (A G @ Mar 30 2010, 07:24 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (tcat446 @ Mar 30 2010, 04:51 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Can you get more usable travel on a 2000 t-cat by switching any parts?[/b]
Might be able to use a 19" or 19.5" shock but still requires double-checking the outer tie-rod ball joint for binding at full extension of the suspension.

Even though a longer shock has more overall travel, it also may have an undesireable effect of bringing the compressed bottom out point closer to the normal ride height... Because a longer shock will also be longer when fully compressed.
[/b][/quote]

Good point!
[/b][/quote]

Yes, a 19" shock might be an inch longer than an 18", but it also doesn't mean you're going to get a whole inch of extra travel because the cylinder is longer on a 19" than an 18".

Ultimatley the answer lies in the balance of if the tiny bit of extra travel is worth bringing the bottom out point closer.
 

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Looking good Blasikov,

Move the bars now while it's warm out, the airbox can be fun to get out. I didn't do mine right away and spent many hours hunched over this winter.

I regret not doing it last spring because when you stand and get your weight forward the suspension really shines.

HUGO......

I grew up off of hwy 4 on horeshoe "mud puddle" lake


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
Yeah, I hear ya!

It's crazy how we sledders are over-fascinated, obsessed, 'absorbed' by sleds & sledding for 3/4s of the year and only get to use them for 1/4 year.

Any other logical critter would forget about them a couple weeks after the snow is gone and move on to other things.

But not us![/b]

What fun would that be ??
 

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Quick question, did you use the everything from the front of the donor sled minus the shocks/springs and sway bar? Everything else came from the same sled? Did you use the sway bar links and arms off the donor sled also?

Just want to make sure I have everything when I start digging into this sucker.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (mtnbke_62 @ Mar 30 2010, 09:06 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
...when you stand and get your weight forward the suspension really shines.[/b]
Another way of interpreting the meaning behind your statement... Sitting on the seat with more of your weight near the rear of the sled prevents sled suspension performance from 'really shining'.

It's true. The rear axle is the worst place to have weight, center of the sled is optimum. (harsh/rough, tight & twisty trails, not WOT lake/drag racing, ovals, etc.)

But it is natural for humans to resist change. Many will not experiment or adapt to something new or different because it is outside of their comfort zone of familiarity. Another situation is often where they will try to stand without having the steering post in the right location and bars high enough to ride stand-up properly, and then will decide stand-up is not for them.

In PMs, many have told me they weren't interested in moving the steering post & bars at all. Their choice really, but it might be a different story if they gave 100% stand-up a try with the post/bars in the proper location & height first. I'm sure their choice would be different if they had knowledge of the difference from many miles of experience.

:chug:
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (SShooterZ @ Mar 30 2010, 10:52 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Quick question, did you use the everything from the front of the donor sled minus the shocks/springs and sway bar? Everything else came from the same sled? Did you use the sway bar links and arms off the donor sled also?[/b]
From the donor sled: A-arms, shocks/springs, tie rods/ends.

From the original 1996 ZRT: Torsion/sway bar (lengthened 2.5 inches), arms, links, spindles (notched for clearance).

Cut my own a-arm spacers - used the aluminum spacers from where the old front shocks mount to the spindle.

Cut some rubber hose for the sway bar spacers as the frame tube is now a bit too short.

Also, I attached the tie rod ends to the spindles from the top, adding washers to raise the heim joint a bit. Otherwise at full extension, the suspension puts stress on the joint. You can also put a bumper or some type of stop in the spindle, but I'm too lazy to bother with it.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (A G @ Mar 31 2010, 08:19 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I'm sure their choice would be different if they had knowledge of the difference from many miles of experience.[/b]
I really wanted to, but am seriously befuddled at how the airbox comes off. :eek:

Seriously, what's the procedure? Besides a cutting torch. Or a sledgehammer.
 
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