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Discussion Starter #1
Using the search features, so many threads about AGLT, I'm pretty sure some say to look at the stickies. But there is no stickied thread and information in searches for BPLT is extremely limited.

I'm looking at possibly BPLT modding my 98. AGLT just seems too wide, doesn't fit between the wheel wells of a truck. And around here lots of single sled paths through snow banks, would be making my own path, also harder to carve with (and these big sleds are already hard enough).BPLT seems to be that sweet spot, add some travel, but not be far and away wider than other sleds on the trails.

But I did want to do reading on both. Like for AGLT I keep seeing the figure of 13" of travel being thrown around and that the ZR2 sleds only have 6 or 7". But it's using all ZR3 parts, those sleds don't have double the ZR2 travel do they? Either way, anyone happen to save the links to the main threads for those conversions?
 

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the AGLT, front end mod when done will get you 13+ inches of travel, same with the rear when you do a crossfire or like skid swap, which is highly recommended if your going to mod the front end, might as well make the back matched up for all the benefits

here are two links to look at, by a fellow member here that has done a few of these builds, including building one for me and it was a huge improvement over stock sleds
I also had a BPLT seld without the rear being done(also done by a fellow member here tcat446)

Crossfire skid into a 96 ZRT
Crossfire skid into a 96 ZRT

ZRT 800 AGLT
ZRT 800 AGLT


I also had a BPLT sled without the rear being done(also done by a fellow member here zrt1200




Both of these members have tons of experience on these mods, and I would suggest you read through some of there treads on them, there very good folks and odds are willing to help if you reach out to them as well!
 

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Keep in mind AGLT will not work on 99 and up bulkheads.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
the AGLT, front end mod when done will get you 13+ inches of travel, same with the rear when you do a crossfire or like skid swap, which is highly recommended if your going to mod the front end, might as well make the back matched up for all the benefits
But I'm wondering where people get these numbers from. 13" seems highly doubtful, the eye to eye on the 95 - 98 front shocks are 16.5" eye to eye I believe. The ones used in AGLT are 18". How does that bring it from 6 - 7" of travel to 13? Or when all of those parts are off ZR3 sleds, it should have the same front travel as those, and I'm pretty sure those don't have near that. So I'm just curious where people are getting this number of 13".

My sleds a 98 though, already has the TSL skid in it, and my 95 already has a TSL skid swapped in as well. So no need to mess with any rear suspension for me. I'm just doubtful of AGLT measurements and wish there was more straight up info on either of these. Like the first post of a discussion having measurements, part numbers, what else needs to be done (BP mentions milling and lifting his rack), and possibly what sleds may have these parts (since I know there's a few odd years like I think 96 ZR580 spindles can work for AGLT). The information just seems so scattered. Could meld BPLT and AGLT into a thread and put the relevant info into the first post and have the rest for discussion after that.

I think posts with details like that existed previously, but are now deleted, but I may be wrong.
 

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They used to have it all spelled out on Arctic Insider. I see it listed but comes up as an error so they must of taken it down. Here is what I have and can tell you. First it was posted from Mrbb in the link he had. Second, this is what I have on the AGLT. You need:

97/98 ZRT or 98 T-cat spindles
01-06 upper and lower A arms & tie rods.
18" Center to center front shocks.
Ball joints 00 & newer (More range of motion)
02 and newer zrt/t-cat ski shock springs.
Spacers for A arms and NOT washers. (Supplied info of spacers in my link)

You do not use the springs off the zr front shocks as they are only intended to hold the weight of a twin engine and not the bigger triples. You can, but WILL NOT get the plush ride! Well worth buying the springs. Handles better too. The part number for the spring is 1603-392. The last three numbers are the color number. 392 is the green. Last I knew they came in black, green, yellow, red.
ARCTIC CAT SPRING,COMP-FRT-GRN
 

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To answer your question,.....I think the 13" was measured from the bumper fully compressed or should I say bottomed out, to the bumper fully extended and skis hanging just touching the ground. Best improvement I have ever done to a sled hands down!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
To answer your question,.....I think the 13" was measured from the bumper fully compressed or should I say bottomed out, to the bumper fully extended and skis hanging just touching the ground. Best improvement I have ever done to a sled hands down!!!
What do you notice when riding smaller trails? Is your ski stance far outside the normal? Or what about for trailering? Is it a pain to get side by side with another sled?

I know the upsides to AGLT, but it just seems like it has many down sides, I would imagine it's very hard to pull over to carve through powder with as well. That's why I'm a bit more curious about BPLT. Also I just don't see how ZR3 parts come out to more travel than ZR3 sleds have up front. I don't debate it's an upgrade, but it seems like ride wise they should be the same, with cornering going to AGLT because of the width.
 

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Quick question: what does the abbreviation AGLT and BPLT stand for? I used to know but can’t remember now lol!
 

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I have one sled of each. The AGLT is superior to the BPLT. You will not get the BPLT and AGLT in a 101" wide trailer side by side. An AGLT and a regular sled will fit. As far as carving I don't have any experience doing that with one of them. You may be right on that. As for trail riding, a corner once take at say 30 mph can now be taken at 50 is about the only way to explain it, and there is more too it than that. If a guy likes jumping then there is no comparison at all. Very smooth and plush.It's kinda like riding on rails. Not much ski lift going very fast in the corners. AG it the guys name on this forum that invented it. LT stands for Long Travel. AGLT. The BPLT stands for Brad (something) Long Travel. I spoke to Brad two years ago and he is no longer making that but said he can make one up if I needed it. Don't know if he is able to still do that currently though.
 

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it’s a fancy way of saying I bolted a zr3 front end on an old sled.
To say that would be selling the AGLT short. There is no comparison between the ZR3 front end and the AGLT. The ZR3 does not have 13" of travel, the ride quality, corner ability, or the ski stance of the AGLT.
 

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I also had both at the same time and not sure how wide the inside of my 8.5 wide enclosed trailer, they fight TIGHT, but did have not have to ride with any ski on top of another

as for carving snow, I will agree a BPLT will carve better, but the difference will be rather small, as Neither of these sleds with a wider than stock ski stance is designed for carving powder
the whole point of going wider will be better ON trailer handling and performance
if you want a sled to carve powder better you want a more narrow front end, and NOT wider!

I also, don;t think any of the older Triples, or even the ZR3 front end equipped sleds are that great to carve with period,
the difference in more modern sleds and there ability to do so in comfort and fun, and handling is huge!
better off saving your $$ and buying a different sled if off trail powder playing is your main concern!

real simple, wider the front end harder they are to tip period, be it on there side to carve, or on a trail in a corner with speed!
they rail and allow you to have more in control turns, and then the added better suspension, is a huge perk to it!
 

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The travel gain comes through motion ratio. Very likely a longer set of shocks can be used but would definitely require more from the rear then as well. I suspect AG just used what he had and made that work. A lot to be considered when modifying suspension geometry.
 

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To say that would be selling the AGLT short. There is no comparison between the ZR3 front end and the AGLT. The ZR3 does not have 13" of travel, the ride quality, corner ability, or the ski stance of the AGLT.
the bulk head is wider on the aws 4 giving it a super wide stance. He did Nothing other than bolt new parts on a old sled. I just did the same thing to my 2019 by bolting on a 2020 front. It was not hard
 

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The travel gain comes through motion ratio. Very likely a longer set of shocks can be used but would definitely require more from the rear then as well. I suspect AG just used what he had and made that work. A lot to be considered when modifying suspension geometry.
Everything is the same geometry because the stock bulk head and stock spindles are kept. Everything is just longer.

I have this in my 98 zrt 600. I can keep up with any trail sled. Well not the 300 hp turbo's lol but 95% of the trail sleds out there.
 

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The travel gain comes through motion ratio. Very likely a longer set of shocks can be used but would definitely require more from the rear then as well. I suspect AG just used what he had and made that work. A lot to be considered when modifying suspension geometry.
Yes longer shocks are used. 18" C to C. The A arms are off later model sleds like zr's and z's. Shocks to accommodate the longer A arm geometry was needed and he told me that he put a lot of hours and time into this and came up with 18" shocks to cover the range of motion as well as the ball joints. Most won't change ball joints and wind up snapping them off which is usually not too fun. He also told me that he wanted to keep it all Arctic Cat parts which he has accomplished.

Below is a pic of my ZRT before the AGLT and after the AGLT. I rode it a year or two before pulling a Tim the tool man Taylor move. Thinking that if the front was good then doing the back was better.....and it was, but not necessarily necessary. The last two pics are of the completed project. I agree with Cheapsnow, I have had guys try to pass in the trails or keep up and short of a newer turbo on a straight away, it ain't happening. lol. Not yet anyway. Not bad for a 24 year old sled. I don't have a ton of money as some have into theirs and I can actually work on it. lol. I do agree with Mrbb, if you want to carve, don't put the AGLT on it.
 

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They used to have it all spelled out on Arctic Insider. I see it listed but comes up as an error so they must of taken it down. Here is what I have and can tell you. First it was posted from Mrbb in the link he had. Second, this is what I have on the AGLT. You need:

97/98 ZRT or 98 T-cat spindles
01-06 upper and lower A arms & tie rods.
18" Center to center front shocks.
Ball joints 00 & newer (More range of motion)
02 and newer zrt/t-cat ski shock springs.
Spacers for A arms and NOT washers. (Supplied info of spacers in my link)

You do not use the springs off the zr front shocks as they are only intended to hold the weight of a twin engine and not the bigger triples. You can, but WILL NOT get the plush ride! Well worth buying the springs. Handles better too. The part number for the spring is 1603-392. The last three numbers are the color number. 392 is the green. Last I knew they came in black, green, yellow, red.
ARCTIC CAT SPRING,COMP-FRT-GRN
Jeff, I’d be willing to bet it’s because Harry has been called out over there after he was found to have been quite the 💩-stirrer (here) behind the scenes during a period between 2007-2009.

He’s been found to be quite the back stabber (by many), who thought at one time that he was quite the stand up fellow (present company included)

If you only knew about him what the moderator forum threads have revealed over the past 8 years..... 😳
 

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Everything is the same geometry because the stock bulk head and stock spindles are kept. Everything is just longer.
Really? How inordinately simple! Then do this and do it accurately and fair. Pull shocks from unmodified AWS 4 unit. remove springs and dump oil/nitrogen charge. reinstall shocks without springs/oil. now measure your distance from full extension to full collapse. record results from unmodified unit. Now do the same to your AGLT unit and record and show me they parallel each other, exactly. If you're really sharp you can work out the motion ratio of each while doing this. Very likely there is gonna be a difference there too, meaning a change in geometry.

Bottom line is, Greg B is correct. Just a bunch of stock parts involved.
 

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Really? How inordinately simple! Then do this and do it accurately and fair. Pull shocks from unmodified AWS 4 unit. remove springs and dump oil/nitrogen charge. reinstall shocks without springs/oil. now measure your distance from full extension to full collapse. record results from unmodified unit. Now do the same to your AGLT unit and record and show me they parallel each other, exactly. If you're really sharp you can work out the motion ratio of each while doing this. Very likely there is gonna be a difference there too, meaning a change in geometry.

Bottom line is, Greg B is correct. Just a bunch of stock parts involved.
⬆⬆⬆⬆⬆⬆⬆

Spot on correct!
 
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