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Discussion Starter #1
As you watch this video your 1st impression is that if there was a rematch there is no way I could beat the sled directly to my left. If that is your 1st impression, well it is wrong. What you don't know is that he is studded and I am not so I am going to spin more at the starting line. So you can now see why he got a large launch in this video. Also, If you watch from about 1/2 track on he no longer pulls away form me and I actaully start gaining ever so slightly on him. I know I am a ways behind but if you watch it you can see what I am talking about. In Lesson About Traction Pt. 2 I know my camera isn't positioned high enough but that same sled is in the 3rd lane (2 over to my right and not the sled next to me) and in that race I won by "A 1/2 a ski" according to the finish line judge. He was ahead of me slightly at 1/2 track but I got by him...just like it showed me gaining on him in this video but of course he was too far ahead to catch in the 1st race. Just posting these 2 videos to show the difference in getting traction at a race and not getting traction in a race against the same sled.


Not getting traction in the 1st race:


 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
So here I am running the same sled again as in Pt. 1. This time the sled is out in the far right lane and I beat him by a 1/2 a ski length. I took my helmet off at the end to make sure I had my camera on to catch it because I knew I had him at the line. If you're viewing this video before viewing Pt.1, go and view Pt.1 and read the Description also and you'll see I lose bad to this sled in the Open Mod finals but beat him in the Outlaw Semi-final round to advance to the Outlaw finals.

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Forgot to mention that in pt. 2 where I beat that sled I actually started a sled length behind them trying to get more snow to take off on. I have that on video too where the starting line guy waves me ahead but I tell him I am ok where I am at.
 

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Nice. It's like a totally different sled.

Now ya just need to clean it up a bit. You'll knock 3/10's off your 500 ft time :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What do you mean??? My sled is a pig! I know...it looks awful. If I cleaned it I'd lose 20lbs off of it and gain 2 seconds. When it comes to spending $ on it I choose go fast parts over look good parts. I know it looks like crap...but people can't see it when they are eating my snow dust out on the trail!!! LOL!
 

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What do you mean??? My sled is a pig! I know...it looks awful. If I cleaned it I'd lose 20lbs off of it and gain 2 seconds. When it comes to spending $ on it I choose go fast parts over look good parts. I know it looks like crap...but people can't see it when they are eating my snow dust out on the trail!!! LOL!
I just meant clean up whats there. Hell with fancy new looking parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ye knowest not what you ask.....why in about 6 or 7 years would I just now start cleaning it? There is tradition with that sled...a non-cleaning tradition..LOL. Every once in a while I wipe it off a bit...just haven't really done it recently besides people feel even worse when some old crappy heavy drity ZRT blows by them...:)
 

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once a year, end of season, i take the air box off, cover the carbs, and pressure wash under the motor, then the rest of it, kinda taking care not to wash directly at electrics, and call it good.

i dont care about clean, i just want mine presentable. as in, if the pressure washer dont get it, it deserves to be there.
 

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Alot of people over look traction big time. Most of the people on here ask questions on what preformance parts they should buy studs should be about the number 1 thing on the list. It doesn't matter how much HP you have under the hood if you can't get it to the ground does you no good.
Setting a sled up for snow/ice like that is totally different then on grass. I think I am pretty good at setting up sleds for grass knowing on grass or a clay starting line you don't want as much traction coming off the line. Reason is it hooks to hard and you will bog the engine on the smaller sleds. The bigger sleds you don't have the issue you have enough torque to make up for it. On ice or snow you going to spin a little no matter what. So you wanna get as many studs as you can in to a point.
The next thing that is over looked is drag on the drive line.
The clutching is the next thing after the drive line. A new belt is huge way over looked I put that up with traction. If your not getting your power to the drive line your not getting to your traction products. Engine mounts are huge also. That engine twists in the chassis it causes your belts to shift different in the clutching. All the work you done for clutch the sled is now out the window.
I tell alot kids on here to stop wasting there money on these snake oil products out there. You have to start with the simple little things first. Once you get that mastered then you can play with the other stuff.
Over the years with just a basic stock sled with studs and a clutch kit. I have made alot of bar stool heros look like fools. After they spent huge amount of money on worthless crap because everything else isn't set up. It doesnt matter if we are talking car, motorcycles or snowmobiles you have to get the POWER TO THE GROUND PERIOD!!
 

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You should lower your front end and drop the nose down once and try racing that same sled again. What that does is gets a extra lug of the track on the ground I use to loosen the springs as loose as I could get just so the spring keeper doesnt fall out. Your not going for ride your going to drag racing. The right way to do it is to put a space in the shock. Its the poor mans way of doing it. See how much of difference it makes also kick your rear skid arm forward all the way. That makes the track lay out more also shifts your weight back faster out of hole. You might already have the skid set up that way I don't know by from watch your video.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have all the videos on hi-def and I can watch my speedo and tach...when my sled gets to the starting light the speedo is almost to 70mph. On 2 of the 6 or 7 runs I made the sled rpms go up to 9000 about 2/3 of the way down the track and then come back down to 8700-ish. That tells me that on 2 runs I hooked up better down track for a couple of seconds...i.e. lots of track spin. Of well..I knew that going in not running studs.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You should lower your front end and drop the nose down once and try racing that same sled again. What that does is gets a extra lug of the track on the ground I use to loosen the springs as loose as I could get just so the spring keeper doesnt fall out. Your not going for ride your going to drag racing. The right way to do it is to put a space in the shock. Its the poor mans way of doing it. See how much of difference it makes also kick your rear skid arm forward all the way. That makes the track lay out more also shifts your weight back faster out of hole. You might already have the skid set up that way I don't know by from watch your video.
Funny you should say that...I read where you should run more preload on the front shocks so I tried that....it made it trench. So i loosened the front end back up and then it hooked and took off. I have the sled set up so I can adjust the rear end on it easily to make it stiffer or softer in seconds....so in OPen mod I had it too stiff and so before Outlaw started i went back and loosened up the rear end and that was one of the reasons why I lost to that sled the 1st time and then beat it the 2nd time. I have the motor to do it...just needed more traction.
 

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It all depends on where you sit on the seat on the sled also. You should sit in the same spot everytime. I always sat on the tank with my feet in the stir ups. Keeps the front end down you don't want to raise hardly at all. Where a lot of people stand on the back to get traction. Instead of going foward there goin up. Lower the front ski shocks down then tighten the front rear spring alittle. You can go too much or too little. Your on the right track as far as weight transfer. It all depends on what your racing on. Ice/snow is different then what I race on clay/grass starting line. You got just keep playing with everything. What you weigh and what I weigh is going to be different. I am a big guy. When I raced I was 270. It makes a difference also. I was told by wheelocks computer guy because all there race sleds are hooked to the computer timer. ( first guy to ever hit 4 seconds in 500 feet) He said being fast is boring. It should be smooth as glass. If the sled is moving all over you losing time. He said by the time sheets and talking to wheelock. He could come back after a run an go man that felt slow. He would go No your faster that time on that run. Other words if the sled felt like it was going crazy fast you are more likely slower. When they test they have all the state of the art lights , computers, and playback all hooked into the sled. Then they can watch the whole run on the computer. All the way through the 500 feet it tells them if they dropped or picked up speed on the shift. Its unreal.
The snowmobile club I am in down here near rochester mn we have some of the best racers in the world I chat with all the time. Get little pointers from. Jerry Fix , Dave Tygstead, John Wheelock. Those guys have won all over the nation and canada. Thats what they do for a living is race for factory team.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
It all depends on where you sit on the seat on the sled also. You should sit in the same spot everytime. I always sat on the tank with my feet in the stir ups. Keeps the front end down you don't want to raise hardly at all. Where a lot of people stand on the back to get traction. Instead of going foward there goin up. Lower the front ski shocks down then tighten the front rear spring alittle. You can go too much or too little. Your on the right track as far as weight transfer. It all depends on what your racing on. Ice/snow is different then what I race on clay/grass starting line. You got just keep playing with everything. What you weigh and what I weigh is going to be different. I am a big guy. When I raced I was 270. It makes a difference also. I was told by wheelocks computer guy because all there race sleds are hooked to the computer timer. ( first guy to ever hit 4 seconds in 500 feet) He said being fast is boring. It should be smooth as glass. If the sled is moving all over you losing time. He said by the time sheets and talking to wheelock. He could come back after a run an go man that felt slow. He would go No your faster that time on that run. Other words if the sled felt like it was going crazy fast you are more likely slower. When they test they have all the state of the art lights , computers, and playback all hooked into the sled. Then they can watch the whole run on the computer. All the way through the 500 feet it tells them if they dropped or picked up speed on the shift. Its unreal.
The snowmobile club I am in down here near rochester mn we have some of the best racers in the world I chat with all the time. Get little pointers from. Jerry Fix , Dave Tygstead, John Wheelock. Those guys have won all over the nation and canada. Thats what they do for a living is race for factory team.

agreed...test test test for each condition and timers or radar only give you the real answers. I did some testing on timers a couple of years back...invaluable info for my sled/application. May not be applicable to all models ect...but good info for me to use...which I did on Saturday and it helped me in the rematch with the sled that smoked me the 1st time around...:)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Went tuning with Ron yesterday...found another 10 mph in it...would have taken 2nd place if it was tuned then like it is now. Put my mod pipes and race heads on it and chisel it up and would have given the winner a run for his money. Oh well.
 
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