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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1996 ZRT 600 just curious is a 97 or 98 rear suspension would work without modifications to the tunnel thanks scott
 

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It depends. Read the pinned topics on the TSL skid frame swap, but don't expect to not have to drill a couple new holes. Swapping a TSL skid into an older, short travel sled is about the best mod you can do, IMO.
 

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If you can find a skid out of a 1997 zrt ext it will bolt in w/ no drilling or plates. It gives you the same travel as the 98 and up style, but does not have the tsl link. Myself and a few other members have done this to ours. ;)
 

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If your going to do anything at all put the torque link suspension in. There is a big difference. The sled will also transfer the weight to were to other will not. Don't waste the time or money on one that is not the torque link kind!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (scott6824 @ Nov 20 2009, 09:31 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
was the change like a world of difference... did you ride it and say holy crap this is waaaaaaay better.. thanks[/b]

Big time! It was a whole new animal. Ive rode my friends zr 600 w/ the tsl type and it seemed the same. My sled sits a little higher than his also. I may go w/ a newer style later on. Ive allready done the mod w/ the steel plates and drilled the new holes. But when I went to put my skid in, it was not rite. Thats when I found out the 97 non tsl style bolted in my orig. mounting holes. It hooks up to the ground great. Some people that tell you its no good, are the some who have never tried it out.
 

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Here is my stepson's sled. (My old sled.) We modded the suspension as you can see the link in the pic. Rides great and will now run with the other sleds. Before when I owned it, the 600's with the tsl suspension would eat me up in the trails and the fluff. Now, that's another story. Better ride and better launch if your into some occational racing. Choice is up to you!
 

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I put a 1998 skid in mine and it improved the ride greatly. I also put the wider front suspension in mine and that too really improved the sled.

Jeff
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (tcat446 @ Nov 20 2009, 10:02 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Here is my stepson's sled. (My old sled.) We modded the suspension as you can see the link in the pic. Rides great and will now run with the other sleds. Before when I owned it, the 600's with the tsl suspension would eat me up in the trails and the fluff. Now, that's another story. Better ride and better launch if your into some occational racing. Choice is up to you![/b]

You didnt have the "EXT" zrt. So you had the older style non ett style like my 95 zrt 800 had. . So upgrading to the 98 should have been a huge improvement.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
did some phone calling around.. .low end for complete suspension 175 all the way to 400... with rebuilt shocks.. just have to make up my mind if I should put that kinda money into a 96 sled.. thanks
 

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Would there be a difference if you just added the Torque Link Offset Arms on your 96-97 suspension, I have a 1997 Powder Extreme, and only the 98 Powder series have torque links. So from what I can see the only difference is that the 97 doesnt have the Torque Link Offset Arms, and the 98's do...
 

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Here is my stepson's sled. (My old sled.) We modded the suspension as you can see the link in the pic. Rides great and will now run with the other sleds. Before when I owned it, the 600's with the tsl suspension would eat me up in the trails and the fluff. Now, that's another story. Better ride and better launch if your into some occational racing. Choice is up to you!
Hey tcat446, I'm attempting to do the same mod on my '96 T-Cat and I'm running into an issue I can't seem to figure out. When I put the sled on the ground the rear section of the rear control arms are laying back onto the rear wheels and I can't find the problem. I used your pic to show the section of the suspension I'm talking about. Thanks.
 

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Well, when I installed the new skid under my Wildcat, all it required was moving the front and rear holes forward by 2" due to the longer arms and the TSL segment.
And it is a "holy crap" what a better ride.
 

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I would be careful buying an older rear skid a good deal older ones are more prone to cracking, and bending fwd bottom shock shaft. Do a good inspection when buying used, and alittle research good luck.
 

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Hey tcat446, I'm attempting to do the same mod on my '96 T-Cat and I'm running into an issue I can't seem to figure out. When I put the sled on the ground the rear section of the rear control arms are laying back onto the rear wheels and I can't find the problem. I used your pic to show the section of the suspension I'm talking about. Thanks.
Got any pics?

The arm should not be touching the wheels. It may be close but not touching. It may be that the rear link is located in the farthest most forward holes. They do this for a softer ride and it make the rear arm compress faster and easier. It also transfers the weight better. Is yours in the front holes?
 

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Also, how tight are the limiter straps?
 

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Got any pics?

The arm should not be touching the wheels. It may be close but not touching. It may be that the rear link is located in the farthest most forward holes. They do this for a softer ride and it make the rear arm compress faster and easier. It also transfers the weight better. Is yours in the front holes?
Pic2033 Is with the rear of the sled off the ground....

Pic2034 Is with it on the ground and the linkage is resting on the wheels.

I've been trying it out in all the different hole positions from front to back with the same results, (the reason why they are set so far back, I just haven't moved it back to the stock position yet). The only thing that seems to make a difference is the spring tension adjusters. If I crank them all the way up to the #4 position the linkage will stay straight up until I put my weight on the sled then it just collapses again. Is it possible that the springs are so far gone that they just can't support any weight?

The limiter straps are new and I only tightened them enough to take the slack out. I didn't want to adjust those until I had a chance to test the front lift under acceleration, but I'll try whatever you recommend.

I did re-check my center to center distance from the front arms to the rear and I'm at 23 1/2". I'm not sure how I ended up a 1/4" off. Is that really a problem?
 

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If your talking about when you drilled the hole locations, I don't think the 1/4" is a problem.

Below is a couple of pics that may help you see if you have everything put together correctly. Last pic is not complete but you get the idea. I wonder if the front spring location of the plastic spring holders are in the correct position. Looks like the rear scissor is located a few holes to far back. The cross brace should be where the other yellow mark is on the rail. I would use both yellow marks like in my pics.
 

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Nice color combo on the rebuild. When I get home tonight after all the Christmas festivities I'll compare pics. Thanks for the help man, Happy Holidays.
 
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