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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Exactly as the topic says, starts like crap and wont rev up high enough to move the sled but a few inches. sled only has 2k miles. i really dont know much about sleds at all this was given to me as a xmas present from my mom ( shes had it in storage for a few years). any help would be greatful.
 

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I have a 97 ext 600 tripple. although your proublome could be different, look at the exhaust manifold and see if its sucking in cold air, if it is stop reving it up because you could warp the cylinder, also check the drive belt, make sure no cracks or tears.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
sucking in cold air where? where it connects to the engine? Nothing wrong with the drive belt at least visibly. I just went outside, had to use some starting fluid but it started ran at a low idle for a few seconds ( i know not to rev it until the engine is warmed up) but then it died and wouldnt start back up again... does anyone have a list of things i can go through?
 

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Take the carbs off and clean them, check for broken reeds. Check the air box for a mouse nest. Replace fuel filter. Check primary clutch for a broken spring. Clean all wiring connections from the ignition to the cdi, this will eliminate most easy stuff. If the carbs sat with gas for a few years that could easily be the problem.
 

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more than likely its a carb issue and i am also going to guess than the throttle switches are out of adjustment this is most likely your main problem the minute you push the throttle off idle it dies horribly, unfortunately the manual doesnt cover **** when it comes to adjusting these things
its a fairly simple process once you figure it out

sucking air in the exhaust????
check the belt???
thats like telling telling me to check my drive shaft when the engine dies on my car!!! lol


dan / clarkston MI
 

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With those carb switches check to see if the magnets are still where they belong. Sometimes they come unglued and will rattle arond. This will cause the sled to run funny.
 

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make sure you take the pilot jets out and look thru them,they are most likely partially plugged and the cause of your problems,also be sure you have all but about .060 of your slack taken out of the throttle cable,and i hope you didnt even think of starting it with 2 year old gas
 

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Sounds like your not gettin gas. It'll idle for a few seconds on the starting fluid fumes. Check fuel filter, drain any old gas and fill the tank full with new to push any air out of the lines. Cleaned your carbs, if you haven't. Otherwise, do the rest above. Start with the easiest and work towards the more complicated.
 

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I'll just echo all the comments on dirty carbs. If it has not been used in a couple of years, then it needs a good thorough cleaning. The carbs need to come off and be disassembled to clean the crud that i slikely blocking the small internal passages. It may be worthwhile to spend $20 and get all new main and pilot jets. You should also avoid using starting fluid with 2 stroke engines. Starting fluid can wash away the oil film on the internal engine parts and you may have enough trouble with dry engine parts after it sitting for so long. Don't make things worse for yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i havent checked out a diagram of the carb but i have unscrewed the top and the inside of the carb and little needle are clean as a can be. It was started on old gas, but i have put new gas in. And it has ran enough to bring new gas through the lines that I can visibly see. just lots of smoke from the exhaust it seems, but i figure from not running or being "summerized" cause my mom didn't know anything about that. like I said the sled only has 2k miles exactly. I was also wondering since i havent looked cause you use leaded gas in these engines? say 100-114octane? I just know i have to younger brothers and i cant say for sure they havent messed with the carbs. its becoming a real pain with a non heated garage. I plan on spending this sunday on getting it running.
 

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When they say clean the carb they don't mean the top section of it, but actually take everything off the carb, undo the clamps, pull the carbs right out of the machine, unscrew the bowl, and clean in there, if it sat with gas in there for 2 years you'll probably see alot of greenish sludge in the bowl, and the main jet (brass piece that leads from the bowl into the main body) will probably be completely plugged, it doesn't take much to stop it from firing / running.

Also check resistance on the electrical sensor bolted on the carb, there should be none. If there is bypass those sensors completely. If none of this makes sense to you, take it to a snowmobile shop and have them go over it. It will save you alot of frustration.

good luck.
 

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You must remove the carbs from the engine and take the float bowl off to access the various jetting circuits and passages. A spray can of carb cleaner will be required and if there is a lot of varnish from evapourated fuel you may have to soak the carb bodies over night in carb cleaner. Liek I said before I think you may be better off buying new pilot and main jets because they can be difficult to get clean and that few dollars is much cheaper than rebuildig the top end after you melt a piston because of a dirty jet, or carb.

You do not want to use anything other than regular fuel in that engine. I am assuming that your mother did not modify the engine to make it a high compression race engine. Stock Arctic Cat engines are designed to run on regular, 87 octane unleaded fuel. If you run 100, or 114 in that stock engine it will run very poorly.
 

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ill do it for 100 bucks for ya and it will be done right, but that may not be the issue anyway, unless you bypassed all the safety switches it sounds to me your switches are out , either way 5 minutes with a tester will tell you everything
you can unlplug and check every switch position manually then adjust the cable and test the switch for proper function on the thumb lever, to really do it right you have to disable it totally, get it running right, get your idles all set or close , then readjust every switch to the new throttle position.

one turn of an idle screw is enough to shut your spark down . or you could have a bad switch, i have had one go bad they are magnetic reed switches. then when you go off idle it doesn function and it shuts you down just off of idle about 1 1/4 of an inch on your thumb lever.

i am in clarkston and i have a heated garage if ya want to bring it down im about 20 minutes south of flint and im guessing it might take about 2 hours to patch it up. maybe less if i can identify exactly what the problem is.

DanTheMan
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
yeah, ill get back at you with that im up in saginaw, with no trailer or hitch yet, but we dont have snow so im not in to much of a rush lol
 

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Do yourself a favor and don't start it again until you have at least cleaned the carbs and checked all rubber boots and checked for mice nests in breather and exhaust.Shouldn't be any other issues with only 2k on it.Also while your at it empty the tank out and make sure you have fresh gas when starting it after checkup.A piston and cylinder will be very costly if you don't heed everyones advice.Sounds like Dantheman knows his stuff ,might be the best 100.00 you will ever spend.Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It finally snowed and tomorrows my only day off, I will find out the problem and be riding tomorrow afternoon. unfortunately I haven't had anytime to go over anything on the sled just yet. I will try every idea that has been thrown at me, but the machine has sat in a garage covered for a year or 2. i will replace the bad gas, and clean the carbs, also the switches and such. theres not even so much as a spider web and the engine looks as new as the ones for sale at the dealership...

things i did notice at glance, the 3 rubber boots that go into the air box are cracked.. would that be enough to cause this many issues?
spark plugs haven't been changed as far as I know. or they have these just need to be replaced (which I will do tomorrow)

-Also heres something I need to know. how far are the screws on the side of the carbs supposed to be adjusted too (ex. 1 1/2 turns)
-Spark Plug Gap
-and Firing order (which plugs go to what cylinder off the coil(s))

any other things i should be preping for?
 

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If the carb flanges are cracked, I wouldn't run it until I replaced them. this will lean out your motor and could burn you down real quickly. Someone else will back me up on this one!!!!
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (SlyStoner @ Jan 16 2007, 07:21 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
It finally snowed and tomorrows my only day off, I will find out the problem and be riding tomorrow afternoon. unfortunately I haven't had anytime to go over anything on the sled just yet. I will try every idea that has been thrown at me, but the machine has sat in a garage covered for a year or 2. i will replace the bad gas, and clean the carbs, also the switches and such. theres not even so much as a spider web and the engine looks as new as the ones for sale at the dealership...

things i did notice at glance, the 3 rubber boots that go into the air box are cracked.. would that be enough to cause this many issues?
spark plugs haven't been changed as far as I know. or they have these just need to be replaced (which I will do tomorrow)

-Also heres something I need to know. how far are the screws on the side of the carbs supposed to be adjusted too (ex. 1 1/2 turns)
-Spark Plug Gap
-and Firing order (which plugs go to what cylinder off the coil(s))

any other things i should be preping for?[/b]
You are very optimistic to think you can sort this thing out in the morning and be riding in the afternoon. The visual apprearence of the sled and engine bay are no indication of actual condition. Sitting, unused, for two years is bad for these machines. Your car will work perfectly fine with a leaky crank seal, it will just leak oil, but in a two stoke engine it can, and will cause severe engine damage. Dirt in the carbs, and bad fuel will also result in severe engine damage. Cracks in the carb boots, which connect the carb bellmouth to the air box, is not good, but may not be the worst problem, but should be replaced to prevent ingesting stuff that could cause damage. Cracks in the carb flanges, which connect the carb to the cylinder/reed cage (which some people will mistakenly refer to as carb boots) can result in severe engine damage.

I don't know the air screw setting for this sled, probably 1.5 to 2 turns out, but a dealer should be able to tell you. There is no speific placement of the plug wires. The spark is not sequential and all plugs fire simultaneously. Plug gap should be 28 - 30 thou. If the sled is so new, the Owner's Manual should be around and it will have this information, so take a look for that.
 
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