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Discussion Starter #22
Ok so ended up installing a new stator and I'm still having the same issue, go figure! Does any one know of where to get a new cdi box? Looked online didn't see any online any suggestions would be much appreciated! Really tired if fighting this!
 

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I am always skeptical that a CDI is bad. If the sled is even firing it suggest the CDI is good. The sled uses a waste spark firing system which means every cylinder fires on every stroke, essentially all plugs fire at the same time all the time. Your problem description sounds like a high resistnace problem somewhere in your system most likely due to corrosion or bad ground.
I have attached the ZRT 600 wiring diagram to assist in your troubleshooting if you don't have one. Basically just follow all compontents through and clean everything thing...twice.

Primary ignition coil resistance (one meter lead on the neg and one on the positive spade terminal) 0.28 and 0.39 ohms

Secondary ignition coil resistance (one meter lead on the spark plug wire tower and the other lead on the neg spade) 6300 to 9500 ohms. Repeat for all three coils.

Spark plug cap resistance is 4000 - 6000 ohms.

The 1996 ZRT 600 CDI P/N is 3004-947 and there is no interchange number for it. The CDI manufactures part number is CU2531. Models that used 3004-947 are the 1996 ZRT 600, 1997 EXT 600, Powder Extreme, and ZRT 600.

Here is a link to one troubleshooting video, if you click on the link below the video it will bring up all other videos.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Thank you very much! thats why I replaced everything except that.. I will go over everything again! I kept finding things out of spec so I kept replacing, but I'll check everything again! Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter #28
So doing some testing again, found the secondary coil I replaced in January measuring at 11250 suppose to be 7900 + or - 20 percent so my question is would high resistance on the opposite coil cause a week spark on the primary? Guess I should have checked it before I put it on in January to park it.
 

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Let's go ahead and recap so we are not duplicating any troubleshooting. Post number and brief description follows:

#1 Cyl 1 &3 dual coil Cyl 2 single coil---Cyl 1&2 Fire 3 does not---replaced plug

#6 Replaced coil---Cyl 1&3 fire weak Cyl 2 fires strong---CDI ground corrosion fixed---tested coils, stator, voltage regulator, unplugged the 4 prong connector and bypassed accessories---Cyl 1 not firing but is sparking---miss follows wire

#13 New plugs---Cyl 1 miss---miss follows wire

#19 Corrected corroded ground wire (is this same ground as in #6)

#22 Installed new stator no joy

#28 New coil 11250 suppose to be 7900 + or - 20 ohms

You should measure 7900 ohms with the spark plug caps removed, if you are reading through the caps 11250 sounds a bit low actually. The caps themselves add about 10k ohm resistance total (5k ohm per cap) to knock down the radio frequency interference (RFI). For example both my Tcats have 7.9k ohm secondaries but measure 17.9K ohm from one cap to the other (5k + 7.9k +5k = 17.9k) and they work fine. The coil can really only fail open or shorted. So to me your coils are good.

Since you are missing about 5k ohm resistance (assuming your coils and wires are similar to my 94 and 98 Tcats) and the miss follows the wire, the wire is immediately suspect. If you can ohm out each wire, they should be around 5k apiece.

Let me know what you find and we'll go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I'll be back at the shop tomorrow and ill retest all and write down each individual reading, that's 11250 is for the single coil with no boot. But I'll go through all the measurements of them and write them all down. So you can have a look!
 

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Sounds good.

I think we can consider the single coil and the wire attached to it good, we can set those aside.

I realized in my previous response I was a little unclear. The wire and cap assembly presents about a 5k ohm resistance. Your 11250 is in the ballpark. My single coils through the cap read 13k.

I have attached a simplified drawing of the coils and wire with expected readings. Let's eliminate the coil and wires as the problem first if we can.

361399
 

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Discussion Starter #32
okay so in my previous post I do apologize reading through I was kind of confusing going about it so I redid all my measurements. My problem I am dealing with is cylinder 2 having a weak spark, cylinder 2 is fired off of the dual coil. the dual coil also fire cylinder 1 which has a strong Spark, and the single coil fires cylinder 3 which also has a strong Spark. so I went through and did all my measurements again. so hopefully it is enough to get some type of idea. both coils were tested without spark plug boots, both coils are new as well as the stator, wires and boot ends. I attached pictures of the diagram I followed for testing straight out of the manual as well as my readings. I redid the ground that comes out of the CDI box and the stator ground is new when stator was replaced is there any more grounds that I should know of? That is the only two that I see.
 

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Those two grounds are all for the ignition side. Just curios, do you have the old coils for comparison. Have you checked those and what did they measure?

Since everything seems to ohm out good, (the single coil is a bit high, we'll circle back to that) let's leave everything in the same position for now.

Just for grins let's regap all our plugs and clean them up. If you can take a wire brush/pipe brush to the spark plug cap terminals, the coil towers and the coil spade terminal. Check the spade lugs to each coil terminal and make sure they fit snug on the lug. Check the coil jumper wire for continuity and snug fit to the terminals. If you have some electronics parts cleaner, shoot some in the CDI connectors and dry with compressed air, check for any pushed or bent pins then gently burnish each pin in both connectors with a soft wire brush to remove an oxidation.

No go back and jumper the non-yellow wires on the stator plug and check the condition of the spark? What is the color of the spark for each cylinder? If cylinder 2 is week, what color is the arc?

Put the plugs back in the holes and fire the sled, and see if we are back on three cylinders.

Now for the single coil. It is ohming a bit high, this is where it would be nice to ohm out the original single coil to see if it can be used for troubleshooting. Let me know the results and we'll keep pressing forward. Right now, we really want to try and isolate our issue to the ignition side of the system.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I will be back at the shop in the morning I did disconnect the four prong from the stator and since it was a closed-loop I jumped between the two non yellow wires to make sure it was on the ignition side and nothing in the bars. spark plugs are brand new only have about 2 minutes of run time on them. I am seeing the weak spark through my spark checker which goes in between the spark plug boot in the actual plug itself. 1 + 3 have very strong bright Sparks through the spark Checker and cylinder 2 is very light and weak I will go through all the connections again tomorrow and make sure everything is clean, I put all new ends on the wires coming out of the CDI box to the coils to make sure they were tight and clean, there is no corrosion in the wires and the jumper for the ground that goes between the two coils ohms out very low resistance and also has good tight clean connections as well. The only wire in that system that I had to do anything with was the ground for the CDI box and I cut it back to about 3 in left and replace the wire due to corrosion in The Wire, the wire that I cut and spliced into looked good though. And unfortunately I cannot find the secondary single coil, I do remember when I pulled it out it was reading around 13000 ohms which was high and the reason I replaced it in the first place. unfortunately I did not check the new one I bought before I put it on and put the sled away for the summer.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Okay so I went through disconnected all the connections and clean them Dielectric grease 9 them and put them back together. I then went through redid All the ends for the coils coming off the CDI box. Including the jumper wire and I cleaned up the boots and put new plugs in and GAP them. The photo of the spark color was taken with the four prong plug unhooked and a jumper wire between the two non yellow wires the lighter of the 2 is the dead cylinder, you can see the difference in them. I do not see any chafed or broken wires and all the tabs looked clean and all connections are good and tight. I did look again for the secondary single coil and I was unsuccessful in finding it. Question about doing the 4 prong wire unplug does that bypass the engine harness as well? If not should I start ohming wires?
 

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By jumping the two non-yellow wires in the stator four prong plug you bypass all your switches, hand warmers, tss, kill switches...etc. You have essentially isolated the electrical system to the ignition circuit only. This should tell us your problem is only with the ignition components and not being affected by the items mentioned above.
Now I would move each plug wire 1 position. 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 3 to 1 and record the results.
In the end this is all so we can eliminate as many things as we can before fingering the CDI. The CDI should always be the last item in the ignition system replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Okay so I moved spark plug wire 1 to 2 2 to 3 and 3 to 1 like you told me and the Miss follows spark plug wire from cylinder to 2 cylinder 3. I did also notice while messing around when I first initially fire the sled before I started moving the spark plug wires around, I get to Bright spark on my spark checker before it goes to a dim Spark, like the first 2 hits are bright and strong then it goes dim as you see in the picture.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
And is it possible for a stator to ohm out ok but be bad? I had someone tell me almost all aftermarket stators are junk and usually ohm out good but are bad? I ordered it from rmstator in Canada, they seemed to have really good reviews, a year warranty and they customer service seemed really good.
 

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If I read you correctly the week spark moved from the dual coil to the single coil (2 to 3). Just to verify, you unscrewed each wire from the coil and moved it one place to the right? Some models you can unscrew the wire from the coil and others you cannot. If this is the case, to me, this would indicate everything up to and including your coils are good and the issue is from the wire out to the plug.
You mentioned that the spark was bright the first two hits and then fades. This is just the case for the one week wire, correct?
If it were me I would build up some new wires with new caps.

If anyone else following along has another perspective I encourage them to chime in.

I generally find comments like "all aftermarket stators are junk" to not be very useful. Stators are not complex items and any competent rewind facility should have no trouble delivering an adequate product.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Very sorry did not mean to confuse you there I moved the wires on the cylinders I did not move them on the coils. I did have my old dual coil though and put that in place with a completely different set of wires and boots and I still have the same dead cylinder. It follows that side of the coil
 
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