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Discussion Starter #1
Attempted to take my zrt for its first test run a couole days ago, drive around the yard a couple times then went about 1/4 mile down the road and she just wouldn’t move from where I stopped. Dragged her home and got it in the garage yesterday and noticed the track was way too tight so I loosened it up a bit and she was moving again but had no power and ended up not moving again.:. Now, she’s back in the garage and with the track off the ground the track will spin but struggles a bit at first like it isn’t running in all 3. When the track is on the ground the motor just falls on its face. My question is what could be the issue here? I’ve looked through the forum and found a lot of things to check but was hoping to narrow down the list. The sled also seems to loose a little coolant somewhere and the key switch doesn’t always shut it off. Any help would be greatly appreciated !
 

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If the anti freeze come out the cap it can get into the electrical connections and not allow it to shut off. See if the over flow hose is still on by the cap.
Has anyone monkeyed around with the clutches lately? Do a compression test and see what you get. Also when you start it see if all the pipes are warm or hot to the touch when first starting it. This will tell ya if its running on all three. Pull the plugs and see if they have anti freeze on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I did have to to replace the helix in the secondary because part of it broke cus my buddy was prying on it to try and turn the track when I first got the sled. CHecked the spark plugs already and they still look brand new. I will have to check for the overflow hose and see if all the pipes get hot. I also noticed a faint rattle type of noise coming from primary if that means anything? Thanks for the help man I really appreciate it
 

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Attempted to take my zrt for its first test run a couole days ago, drive around the yard a couple times then went about 1/4 mile down the road and she just wouldn’t move from where I stopped. Dragged her home and got it in the garage yesterday and noticed the track was way too tight so I loosened it up a bit and she was moving again but had no power and ended up not moving again.:. Now, she’s back in the garage and with the track off the ground the track will spin but struggles a bit at first like it isn’t running in all 3. When the track is on the ground the motor just falls on its face. My question is what could be the issue here? I’ve looked through the forum and found a lot of things to check but was hoping to narrow down the list. The sled also seems to loose a little coolant somewhere and the key switch doesn’t always shut it off. Any help would be greatly appreciated !
 

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You may want to start by checking your brake assy make sure it isnt siezed up then if that is free and it still turns hard you need to look at all the bearings on the Jack and driveshaft. take off your chain case cover and look at the chain and gears. the track should spin fairly easily with the belts off the clutches. while you are at it check all your motor mounts make sure they arent broke. if all that is ok flip it on its side and look at the suspension it could be broke in many spots happens on them all the time if they arent serviced regularly. the rattle in your clutch is probably the weights have to much play and bushings are worn out. Check compression the center cylinder is usually the one that roaches. if the engine is bogging it more than likely needs the carbs cleaned and synced plus clutch work provided. check rubber carb boots for cracks and also check for broken reed valves. If this has not been well taken care of you will easily stick a grand in it to get it rite in parts only.
 

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make sure your chokes are bottomed out when turned off otherwise it will flood cylinders when running which will create a bog also
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I can turn the track by hand with the belt off, had to replace the track when I got it cus the old one was torn. I had to replace 3 carb boots that go into the intake because they were torn. However one choke cable I broke from the carb and I’m not sure how to tell if it’s stuck closed or stuck open? Carbs are on my list of things to check
 

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if you broke a cable that choke plunger may be stuck open. they corrode internally sometimes and stick. Take the choke retainer nut off, there is a spring under it after that down in there is a plunger if you cant move it soak it with some penetrating oil for awhile. with a small needle nose you should be able to work it loose and out of there. once out i use scotch brite to polish the inside. when the choke is off the plunger should be all the way down.when you adjust them with the new cable make sure you have a little play in the cable. if you need instructions on tuning i could send you a copy.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just checked comprehension. 105clutch side, 120 center and 110 on the chain case side. Also noticed the coolant bubbling while I turned it over... pulled the cap off and turned it over again and It shot out the coolant hose..
 

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those readings are ok though usually if they drop down under 100 or are terribly different you may have problems.
take the time to take your carbs off and tear them down I use torch tip cleaners and strands of electrical wire to poke and prod all the holes in the jets even the tiny ones . i clean the carb with good brake cleaner and use compressed air to blow everything out. I squirt break cleaner in the ports and make sure it is coming out somewhere. note: observe where everything goes so you dont put it back together wrong.

carb sync #1
Pin throttle make sure slides go flush with top if not adjust cable. repeat fot the other two carbs

#2
turn out idle screws put 3/16 drill bit underslide release throttle adjust idle screw until it barely drags. do the same for the other two carbs.
set air screws 1 1/2 turn out

#3
Start it. (May idle high) Adjust idle screws equally until desired rpm is reached.

#4
adjust air screw to get highest idle possible (slowly in or out) 1 at a time then adust idle speed for each one (NOTE)
Remember turn all idle screws equally..

I had to do it a couple times before i finally got it rite. but these run sweet when done rite
 

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I forgot to mention the needle in the slide i usually adjust the c clip on thento the second grove from the top make sure you have plastic seal #30 under and on top of the c clip when you reinstall it that holds The needle in place some people loose them and dont put them back in.
 

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also make sure the carb caps have the rubber seal in them.

hope you are not on information overload...... I race one zrt and trail ride one so i had my go around with these.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I appreciate all the info Kenny715 ! I’ll try and pull the carbs off tomorrow and try to clean them the best I can. This is my first time ever messing with a sled so it will definitely be a learning experience
 

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Just checked comprehension. 105clutch side, 120 center and 110 on the chain case side. Also noticed the coolant bubbling while I turned it over... pulled the cap off and turned it over again and It shot out the coolant hose..
If you have 105lbs. you need a rebuild or have a blown O-ring in that cylinder head or both. Don't go any farther untell you drain anti freeze and pull the heads and cylinders and look things over. I have done enough engine and know you have problems. You may need new O-rings for the cylinder heads after all, they are 20 some years old likely unless someone else replaced them.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
A friend of mine supposedly rebuilt the motor 2 years ago before he sold it to somebody else. How do you go about draining the coolant in theeee ?
 
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