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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My sis's bf got a 95 ZR 580 EFI that has problem, took it on the lake for first time today, it runs damn good and is fast. The whole thing is rebuilt by a guy that he bought from for 1300.

once i fire it up, let it warm, it just floods it but still idles at 1500 rpm. but once i hit the throttle a little bit, it will only go up to 2000 rpm, and any more throttle it will go to 1700 rpm. I have to kill the motor, and let it sit for a few mintues then try again, over and over until i get lucky and it will rev up above 2500-3000 rpm and is rideable and rides normal. but wheni brake and slow down it will drop the rev and if it goes under 3000-2500 it wont rev again, and i will have to stop it and let it sit again. before trying again. i only get lucky with it a few times today.

i already tried new plugs and it didnt make a difference. my bet is its EFI related. seems like it gives too much gas at idle.

Is there a way to troubleshoot it? or is it something else than the EFI?
 

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had the same thing happen to me with my 95 zr580 efi. It ended up being the battery was not haveing enough power from a lose ground
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Okay thanks for the reply i was waiting to hear from somebody soon. i even searched all over the forum and no luck.

But now i can put that on my list of things to check along with what the dealer told me to check today. its in order as if it fails on the first order then next.


1. check battery voltage, grounds

2. bypass TSS

3. clean air sensor

4. clean/check coolant sensor

5. resync throttle body

6 test with another efi unit

7. if all fails, replace stator.

thats what the dealer suggested, but never mentioned the battery ground. so i will put that on the top of the list of first thing to check.
 

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If you need them I can give you specs on checking stator from my Cat manual. Just email me and I will get them.
Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (jlh33 @ Dec 29 2006, 11:55 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
If you need them I can give you specs on checking stator from my Cat manual. Just email me and I will get them.
Good Luck.[/b]

sure thing, thanks! I will let you know if i need them.




We got some snow this morning, abt 2-3 inches. gotta do some work then head out to the sled and work on it hopefully to get it running today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I am working on it right now and accessing forums via pager internet.

so I cleaned the air sensor, checked ground, ground is on tight, did tss bypass, no difference at all.

when I first started it tonight it would rev and turn the track no problem. but when I let it run for a good 20-30 sec. then let go the gas, it will drop under 2k rpm and then won't rev past that anymore unless I turn it off and usually it would rev again. but still if I let it back down it won't rev again.

also it just blew the 2nd headlight bulb now I only have one new one. it started at low beam then the hi beam.

the battery light is flickering also the dial lighs flicker when I rev it, like dim, bright, up and down, that's past 3k rpm.

now I'm gonna try the coolant sensor. I highly believe its the efi or stator.

to the last guy posted, can u pm me the link or instructions on how to check stator? or email me at mda @ samsherman.com

thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, it just blew the 3rd bulb, wow it sure was damn bright like HID so white!! then plff its gone. Tail light did get really bright, all that happened when i let it sit a while then fired it up and it revved up and moved and all lights on it went really bright. only the headlight popped.

why is it doing that?

also still havent found any solution. i thought it was the thumb throttle, because if i find the right spot and it will rev and move, so i memorized that spot and then put it outside on the snow, and did a lap, then stopped it and after that it never would move or rev at all. then the dang light blew.

I've read around a bit about stators, and testing it with ohm meter, does not always guarantee if its good or not. idk, but im going to test it tomorrow and see what it shows out. also probably go to arctic dealer with it and see their opinions.

When i read around it seems like that when people have a bad stator, it either wont start or will start but die. but mine does not do that. just starts and idles fine, but just will not rev past 2k at all. its like its restricted or something. I know its not flooding or getting rich, because when it warms up, there is almost no smoke at all, like normal.

also what is that thing under the throttle bodies, that has a cable connected to the throttle as well too? its not opening at the same time as the throttle bodies do. it is moving before the throttle body moves. I have never seen something like that before. its on the block tho.

all of this has given me a really big headache.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Sarosh @ Dec 30 2006, 02:18 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Well, it just blew the 3rd bulb, wow it sure was damn bright like HID so white!! then plff its gone. Tail light did get really bright, all that happened when i let it sit a while then fired it up and it revved up and moved and all lights on it went really bright. only the headlight popped.

why is it doing that?

also still havent found any solution. i thought it was the thumb throttle, because if i find the right spot and it will rev and move, so i memorized that spot and then put it outside on the snow, and did a lap, then stopped it and after that it never would move or rev at all. then the dang light blew.

I've read around a bit about stators, and testing it with ohm meter, does not always guarantee if its good or not. idk, but im going to test it tomorrow and see what it shows out. also probably go to arctic dealer with it and see their opinions.

When i read around it seems like that when people have a bad stator, it either wont start or will start but die. but mine does not do that. just starts and idles fine, but just will not rev past 2k at all. its like its restricted or something. I know its not flooding or getting rich, because when it warms up, there is almost no smoke at all, like normal.

also what is that thing under the throttle bodies, that has a cable connected to the throttle as well too? its not opening at the same time as the throttle bodies do. it is moving before the throttle body moves. I have never seen something like that before. its on the block tho.

all of this has given me a really big headache.[/b]
Your voltage regulator has gone bad! Get a new one pronto!
 

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Did you check the condition of your battery? Sounds like it might be dead. An uncle has a '94 WIldcat 700 EFI and he carries an extra battery in case the primary goes dead 'cause the efi runs off the battery and will shut off if its runs out of voltage. At least that's what he told me and seems though that I've heard that before. Its not like the new ones that run off the engine.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (mopar @ Dec 30 2006, 08:51 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Did you check the condition of your battery? Sounds like it might be dead. An uncle has a '94 WIldcat 700 EFI and he carries an extra battery in case the primary goes dead 'cause the efi runs off the battery and will shut off if its runs out of voltage. At least that's what he told me and seems though that I've heard that before. Its not like the new ones that run off the engine.[/b]

They should charge that battery as they run. If they dont there is a problem with the charging system
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
battery voltage is at 12v


i tested the stator while its still in the motor and cold, and i unpluged the top 2 sensors on the top of the stator cover, both of them read 80ohms, meter is set to Rx10 and it read at 8 so that means 80 ohms.

I havent gotten a chance to test the voltage regulator. one guy jlh33 pmed me with instruction how to test volt reg. and the problem is i cant rev it past 2k after warming up to test it. It only will run fine when its cold, but after warming up, it wont rev past 2k. When i got your pm, at that time the motor was halfway ready to be removed from the sled. so no way of starting it up right now again.



I stopped working on it because i found a hose going to that valve at the block under the intake ports, and i began to wonder what the hell is that thing for? i never have seen such thing like that before. so i am wondering if someone can tell me what it is for. and can it have any effect on my problem?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well, heres new updates, replaced the voltage regulator, and voltage regulater rectfier, and stator, still the same problem. but lighting is ok, regulator fixed it sofar.

I took apart the thumb throttle, and the tss is functioning fine. tried to adjust the tps, didnt change anything. checked the spark, its fine, i really cant think of anything else, maybe its the TPS, or the EFI module? CDI? what else? help me out its so frustrating!!
 

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Here is the trouble shooting guide from the Cat manual for "engine losing power":

- Battery voltage is low. I would check voltage with machine running to see how much battery drain you have. touch leads on battery posts. should show 13.5 volts charging w/ engine running. Quote from page 39 of manual" the entire efi systems depends on a properly charged battery for operation."
- bad sensor(s) check red light on ecu for codes
- spark plug fouled. I know you changed plugs earlier, but you might put a fresh set in with the replacement of the new parts you added. Plugs can be a little funny sometimes.
- external coil defective. to check ignition coil: disconnect double plug from cdi unit, touch red lead to white wire and black lead to black wire. ignition coil primary resistance must be 0.30 ohms + or - 15%
- seocndary ignition coil. remove plug caps. touch leads to plug wires. resitance should be 6300 ohms. + or - 20%. plug caps should be 500 ohms + or -
- gas tank vent hose obstructed. check all fuel lines, filters and fuel pressure regulator. fuel pressure should be 36.2 psi. check the line in your tank. sometimes these have a check valve or screen on the end of them. the screens on them can get crapped up over time. had this happen once.
- charge coil failure. disconnect triple plug from cdi to magneto. connect red lead to black wire in tripple plug, black lead to green in tripple plug should be 450 ohms + or - 20%. then put red lead to red wire in tripple plug, black lead to green in tripple plug. resitance should be 45 ohms. + or - 20%
- check teather switch
- check compression
- check cdi unit
- check fuel filter for obstructions.
I hope this helps. Maybe someone else who reads this will give a little input. Let us know what you find out.
Good luck.
Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks, but just before u posted that, i checked the forums to see if there was a update, and nothing, so i took it into to arctic dealer, for diagonstic check, should know by tomorrow on what the possiblity is. then i will replace whatever is faulty.

I will keep that information for the next time or in case the dealer cant figure it out.

i never knew about a light on the ecu, should've had checked for that too. but oh well its gone for the night and out of my hands for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well i just got back from the dealer, and they said that the TPS isnt picking up voltage, they hooked up diagonstic computer to the ecu and it is getting several codes, and they cant erase it, and think that the ECU might be shot. but they said to try the TPS first and see from there, if nothing improves, replacement ECU is needed. tthey gave me price on the ecu, that is 1,300 dollars!!!! yikes. and TPS was 160 something. So i am going to look around in classfied and ebay for those 2 parts. in meanwhile im going to ask my neighbor who has been lending us parts to test with off his old ZR580 EFI.

So i will keep u guys updated.

but the thing that i dont get is that IF it is the tps, how does cold and warm running affect it? Because when it is cold started, it will run and is driveable until rpm drops below 3,000 rpms. then its no good. TPS only reads how much throttle is open to inform the ECU those information so it can calculate the maps etc..

But i will find out maybe tonight if parts are avaliable otherwise gotta wait for the parts to be avaliable online.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well heres what is up, Jan 6th i left Minnesota to return to NY. just before i left, we got the tps and installed it on and it didnt help at all. so he ordered a brand new tps and ecu. i left, and from what i heard, but the story isnt quite clear, but sounds like none of those 2 did help at all. so he took it to a mechanic, and the mechanic knows the guy who that my sis and her bf bought it from, he knew it wasnt working and sold to them anyways. so now that mechanic is helping them out and the problem is the entire wiring harness. so its currently being replaced right now. So hopefully it will be fixed for them to enjoy and my sis said that the seller will only give 100 back. and she said when the sled is fixed theyre going to talk to him again. So i will see hopefully this week.
 
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