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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
The shack is on two skis with plastic runners. I can push it myself if I push hard. Once I get it moving it’s not too bad, i just don’t like to drive too fast with it and at low RPMs the belt slips a lot.

The other time it slips is when we ride two people on, and then my fishing gear in sled with my daughter. Whenever we hit a hill we don’t make it up. How embarrassing right?!
 

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I would try a brand new belt (assume the current belt edges are burnt smooth) and install a stronger spring on the 2nd clutch. This would make the belt tighter and grip more. Might also install smaller weights on the prime clutch. This will force engine RPM a little higher - before the prime clutch squeezes tighter. Hope these ideas help...
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Stronger spring in secondary makes sense. How hard is this to do?

I was actually thinking heavier weights in primary so the clutch would engage at lower rpm…or install weaker spring. Maybe I got it wrong but I thought that would be better for towing 🤔.
 

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To most often pull a heavy object (like a fishing hut) or an automobile pulling a heavy weight attached trailer, one wants the engine RPM reving higher at slower ground speed. This is the same reason some ATVs and some towing vehicles have a "bull low" gear as well. Lower ground speed and high reving RPM engine is best for towing &/or heavy weight loads. This assumes that your main goal is to also have more "pulling power" and less ground speed (at full throttle).

Good U-Tube clip on clutch weights at:

 

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A higher operating rpm at very slow speeds in this guy's application (without changing gearing) would just equal belt slip and less control which you don't want. You could lower the final drove ratio but I don't think it's necessary for moderate loads of 500 #.
One note able change that can make a big difference in low speed operation control and having higher belt clamping is changing the spider position. Changing the shims behind the spider can change the starting point of the spider which will change the starting angle of the arms, sometimes called unshrouding them. I wouldn't bother doing this on the old 108 clutches and if you're going to get into that kind of tuning you should be rebuilding the clutch at the same time or starting with a fresh one. It can make a huge difference in belt clamping force at lower shift speeds though. I wouldn't recommend messing with a spider for somebody new to clutch tuning, takes a few $$ tools, experience and knowledge of the whole system and you can destroy the clutch pretty easily especially on an older clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
So took a look at the clutch today. Didn’t have much time to clean it up good yet. But first thing obviously will be the belt that needs to be replaced. As for deflection, belt seems too loose. It’s sitting about 1/16” into the sheaves of the secondary. But I assume when I get a new belt it should be about right. However I am unable to turn the belt at all in the secondary…here’s some pics. I’m assuming there will be washers under the secondary bolt that adjust the secondary clutch sheave. Also noticed I am unable to push in the primary by hand. Likely needs a really good cleaning. And they weights seems gummed up. My one pic has the number on the primary, anyone know which model this is? I probably should take it all apart and clean it.
 

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When you take the secondary apart mark the sheaves on the edge so it can be put back together exactly the same. Take note of the washer placement and hopefully the clutch comes off shaft easy. No special puller needed here. These ones float on the shaft a bit. I know my Pantera did. Usually the spring is in the centre notch but someone has moved it already. Not sure which way at this point whether it’s loose or tightened it. Also, there’s three buttons that slide on the ramp. Make sure they are good and not worn down. Spring looks rusty and probably could use a change.
 

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Maintenance first. New proper belt and clean both clutches.

660's advice on the secondary is good, expect you have rollers that run on the ramps not buttons that slide.

When you re-assemble the secondary, put the spring in the hole (there are 5 holes on the outside plate) that gives you maximum spring tension. This will slow down the up-shift and speed up the back-shift allowing the engine to turn more rpm at a lower gear ratio for a given speed, as well as increase the belt pinch at the primary. The draw back to this is you may lose top speed as the secondary may not shift out completely at WOT. The machine will act like it has lighter weights/heavier spring in the primary but with the benifit of more belt pinch. If you find the belt gets too hot but isn't slipping then back the tension down one hole at a time until you find a happy spot which is usually where the belt runs the coolest. Too much belt pinch with cause the belt to run almost as hot as a slipping belt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Awesome guys, I will take it apart when I get a chance and clean it all up. Will post some pics. Gotta figure out where to get one of those springs for the secondary.
 

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Awesome guys, I will take it apart when I get a chance and clean it all up. Will post some pics. Gotta figure out where to get one of those springs for the secondary.
In Canada you can get the spring at your closest dealer, Recreation Supply in Saskatoon or Royal Distributing in Ontario. Even the Polaris, Yamaha, Kawi, Honda dealers will have access to aftermarket replacement springs.
 

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Holy crap!!! I missed the rollers on it. Long day and just enjoying the fire outside.
 

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Yep. Definately rollers. How do you know when they are no good anymore?
There will be lots of play in the pins holding them in place. They don’t look bad but it’s deceiving. You can buy that roller plate assembly too.
 

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I got to thinking why I said the buttons were worn back in post #6. Someone has changed the secondary clutch to the new style roller type. All 3 models of Pumas in 1995 take the button secondary. Puma, Puma Deluxe, and Puma 2up. Original secondary clutch takes a BLUE spring.

 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Ya the blue spring is rated at 79lbs. Could I use this one from royal distributing?

This is the closest they have:

 

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Cat has an optional spring for your sled. It's the yellow one part number 0148-227 @ 92 lbs so I'm guessing the RD one should work. Is there any hint of colour on your current spring?


 

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This is possible what secondary is on your sled. It fits a lot of models from 98-2000.

 
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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Hmmm, a secondary off a Pantera…interesting. Looks about right. As you can see from the pic, the color is pretty much washed off. My best guess would be white.
 

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You really need to take apart the clutches some, inspect what calibration components you have and inspect your components for wear.
You have a 9 tower primary. You need to take the cover off and really check the weights for operation. The bushings get loose and the weight will Rick side to side and eventually destroy the spider because they start wearing right into it. It'll have really bad operation this whole time but some guys don't seem to realize this?? I still want to be cautious about what I say because I haven't felt what your sled is doing. You say it is slipping the belt, can you be more specific, what exactly is happening at what speeds and mph? I didn't see major rubber buildup on the clutch that would indicate a major belt slipping condition. You have a roller secondary with a different spring in a different hole. You need to check all calibration components, weights, springs helix. You could have 340 weights which would be bad for your setup or any other number of wrong and work components. The secondaries don't wear too bad but the primary you have to really keep up on, they do wear out and cause driveability issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
It only slips at low speeds when I'm hauling a passenger and sled with fishing gear and 3rd passenger or if I'm hauling my ice shack (~500lbs). We aren't going too fast, maybe 10-20 KM/h.

I am going to pull the secondary first and inspect and replace spring. Then I'll take apart the primary and inspect. Would be nice to pull it, but that could be a heck of a job and not sure which puller will work for mine. May be better to just disassemble with it on the machine. I will post pics soon with what I find. Again thanks to all you guys for your help!! @660catman @GUnit111 @MNkittykat
 
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