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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi y’all,

I have a 95 Puma AFS. It’s been a great sled for me. I pull my ice fishing shack on and off the lake with it (Approx 500lbs). However, I’m still new to snowmobiles…I’ve noticed that when I try to haul my shack the drive belt is slipping. Also sometimes when I have a passenger on and also pulling my fishing sleigh the belt slips on uphill slopes.

What can I do to help it haul more without slipping?

  • Change springs/weights in primary clutch?
  • Change drive gear in chain case?

I’m trying to find as cheap a solution as I can. She’s an old sled, but runs good. I’d like to run her for another season Or more. Top end speed not a big issue for me…just need a reliable sled that can pull 500lbs or so.

I should also note that before I bought it, the 340 Engine was replaced with a 440 F/C from a 91 Jag. Engine runs strong.

Thanks for any help you can provide. Have added some pics as well.
 

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Which belt and drive clutch are you running? Belt could be slightly longer giving you slippage.
 

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Start with the maintenance items, then move on to air flow and cooling. After that, then consider the mechanical alterations.

Primary clutch weights, rollers and bushings in good shape and everything moving freely without excessive slop. Secondary bushings in good shape and not sticky. Check clutch alignment. Clean sheaves with scotch-bite/water and then a de-greaser. If either clutch needs a lot of work/money then consider the Bearcat clutch option at the bottom of this list.

Check for proper belt deflection and sheave clearance. Clean the belt with hot soapy water.

Check for excess drag in the drive system: Dragging brakes, worn drive shaft and jackshaft bearings, excessively tight track, worn hifax, seized idler wheels, etc.

Remove the screen kit in the hood if so equipped. For low speed travel, anything that increases air flow to the clutches and belt without allowing snow/water in will help immensely. Wrap/insulate the exhaust system from the y-pipe to and including the muffler/can. Make the sure the cooling air from that engine is blowing towards the exhaust side.

Look for different gear/sprockets. Smaller top sprocket and larger bottom. If your careful selecting sprocket sizes you could re-use your existing chain.

Look for a set of Bearcat clutches. They are both a larger diameter, giving you overdrive and underdrive (about 10% both ways). Especially effective with a gear change in the chaincase. This requires a different size belt. You can use only the Bearcat secondary with your existing primary but do not use a Bearcat primary with your existing secondary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Start with the maintenance items, then move on to air flow and cooling. After that, then consider the mechanical alterations.

Primary clutch weights, rollers and bushings in good shape and everything moving freely without excessive slop. Secondary bushings in good shape and not sticky. Check clutch alignment. Clean sheaves with scotch-bite/water and then a de-greaser. If either clutch needs a lot of work/money then consider the Bearcat clutch option at the bottom of this list.

Check for proper belt deflection and sheave clearance. Clean the belt with hot soapy water.

Check for excess drag in the drive system: Dragging brakes, worn drive shaft and jackshaft bearings, excessively tight track, worn hifax, seized idler wheels, etc.

Remove the screen kit in the hood if so equipped. For low speed travel, anything that increases air flow to the clutches and belt without allowing snow/water in will help immensely. Wrap/insulate the exhaust system from the y-pipe to and including the muffler/can. Make the sure the cooling air from that engine is blowing towards the exhaust side.

Look for different gear/sprockets. Smaller top sprocket and larger bottom. If your careful selecting sprocket sizes you could re-use your existing chain.

Look for a set of Bearcat clutches. They are both a larger diameter, giving you overdrive and underdrive (about 10% both ways). Especially effective with a gear change in the chaincase. This requires a different size belt. You can use only the Bearcat secondary with your existing primary but do not use a Bearcat primary with your existing secondary.
Awesome points GUnit. I will go through these maintenance items first. My plan was to give the clutch a full cleaning etc for sure and buy a new belt. Sorry Noob question here: Do I need to remove the clutch and secondary in order to clean it off properly? Or can I take it apart and clean it with it still attached?

Also, for the gearing, if I were to get a slightly smaller gear, I can still use my old chain. How do I know if there's too much slack in the chain and I need a smaller one?

Thanks!!
 

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I believe I have the comet 108c. Its a 227-103 belt on it which I think is the right one...?
You're correct. Both sleds take the same belt. And only the secondary from a Bearcat is bigger. It's still an 8.25 inch primary. Check the buttons on the secondary that they are good and not worn. And as said already, belt deflection no more than 1 1/4".
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You're correct. Both sleds take the same belt. And only the secondary from a Bearcat is bigger. It's still an 8.25 inch primary. Check the buttons on the secondary that they are good and not worn. And as said already, belt deflection no more than 1 1/4".
Thanks, will check that out. I’ll take some
Pics and post…can’t wait to get on some snow!!
 

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Awesome points GUnit. I will go through these maintenance items first. My plan was to give the clutch a full cleaning etc for sure and buy a new belt. Sorry Noob question here: Do I need to remove the clutch and secondary in order to clean it off properly? Or can I take it apart and clean it with it still attached?

Also, for the gearing, if I were to get a slightly smaller gear, I can still use my old chain. How do I know if there's too much slack in the chain and I need a smaller one?

Thanks!!
You do not need to remove the clutches for cleaning, but it does make inspection for wear much easier. The secondary does not require a puller (or at least it better not), so really no excuse for not pulling that one off.

A gearing chart is the easiest/fastest way to determine what chain you would need. Almost every AC service manual from that era will have a gearing chart with chain requirements. Manuals can be downloaded from Country Cat. The online catalog for Recreation Supply also has gearing charts. If the chain adjuster is getting near it's limits you need a shorter chain. Personally, I would put a new chain on to match the gears; breaking a chain usually takes out the chaincase, which gets expensive quickly.
 

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The old 108c clutch sucked ass. You should a 9 tower in it, that's what that sled came with, but somebody may have put an older 108 on it.
You have the correct belt, however it may be old, those belts didn't perform well over time. New ones are cheap and available, stick with oem belt.
Check your deflection which is how loose the belt is. I'd look over both of your clutches good also. I've never had a slipping belt problem on any sled in all my years except for when snow gets on them from minor leaks in belly pan.
I have a 95 puma two up that is my workhorse and I pull wood with it, it shouldn't have a problem with what you're pulling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks
The old 108c clutch sucked ass. You should a 9 tower in it, that's what that sled came with, but somebody may have put an older 108 on it.
You have the correct belt, however it may be old, those belts didn't perform well over time. New ones are cheap and available, stick with oem belt.
Check your deflection which is how loose the belt is. I'd look over both of your clutches good also. I've never had a slipping belt problem on any sled in all my years except for when snow gets on them from minor leaks in belly pan.
I have a 95 puma two up that is my workhorse and I pull wood with it, it shouldn't have a problem with what you're pulling.
Thanks! I plan to check the deflection too. I've been tight for time lately, but will get to work on it soon and will post some pics of my clutch gearcase etc. I wish I had the 2 up Puma like you! I picked up my short-track puma a couple years back for $500 changed out the fuel lines, cleaned carb and she's been great but I'd love to have the extra seat and longer track...Oh well...I think next sled for me will be a bearcat (Fan cooled preferably) as that suits my needs more. It just seems they are tough to find...
 

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Thanks

Thanks! I plan to check the deflection too. I've been tight for time lately, but will get to work on it soon and will post some pics of my clutch gearcase etc. I wish I had the 2 up Puma like you! I picked up my short-track puma a couple years back for $500 changed out the fuel lines, cleaned carb and she's been great but I'd love to have the extra seat and longer track...Oh well...I think next sled for me will be a bearcat (Fan cooled preferably) as that suits my needs more. It just seems they are tough to find...
The bearcats are hard to find in the 90's and go fast if they're decent. You just can't beat the fan cooled sleds for these. My buddy has a bearcat in the twin spar, it is a groomer special with the 1100 four stroke, even with an extra radiator under seat with electric fan (all stock), he still has overheating issues if going very slow or idling long. I use the puma for hauling wood and for trapping, you couldn't do it with a liquid cooled.
I got the puma for 300 with a bad motor, they ran it out of oil and just needed pistons. I bought it just to get the 9 tower clutch and planned on flipping it, but it was too nice and useful. There's a 2017 bearcat with the 570 fan listed locally, I like it, but your paying so much more and not really gaining anything.
I got some matching cat saddle bags last year and they are super handy
Eventually I'd like to put reverse on the puma and get a rear rack for it.
Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Wow! It's mint mint mint...I love it. One poster said the bearcat primary will fit on a puma, that's an option too. Then could change lower the gear ratio, but this could cost $500+ and I still don't have the 2up.

But if I could find a 90s bearcat at a reasonable price (under $2000) then I'd pull the trigger.
 

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It is the bearcat secondary that you'd want, yes it would fit and would lower your starting off gear ratio, but they are expensive because the drag racers like using them. You would need a longer belt too. The puma is geared down compared to a 440 (jag, panther etc) sled, I've never had a problem pulling anything with it but having good clutches and a good belt helps. I like the 103 belt but they do seem to stretch over time and having a loose belt is the last thing you want for pulling loads.
I'd love to find a super Jag, some of them came with the articulating skid and a hi-low gear box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I didn't know the puma was already geared lower than the jag. She jumps pretty good when I press on it!! Let me clean up the clutches and see how it pulls...do you happen to know which years bearcat secondary will fit on mine? And then how do I know which belt to run? Thanks for your help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'd love to find a super Jag, some of them came with the articulating skid and a hi-low gear box.
I didn't know they had a hi-low gearbox! That actually would be a great option...probably would pull pretty good on low!
 

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I didn't know the puma was already geared lower than the jag. She jumps pretty good when I press on it!! Let me clean up the clutches and see how it pulls...do you happen to know which years bearcat secondary will fit on mine? And then how do I know which belt to run? Thanks for your help!
All years up to the twin spar chassis should work.
You'll have to figure out the belt thing. Look at same years panther and bearcat. Get the part numbers. Check part number on a belt chart to see how much longer the bearcat uses. Then you know how much longer of a belt you need compared to your 103. Then just find a belt on the chart that is that much longer and the same width. That's what I would do anyway.
 

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The Cheetahs in the early nineties had an articulating skid on the 440 fan and the 550 liquid. The HI-LO range was an option on the 440 but std on the 550.
 

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I wouldn't think this would happen but you never know with some people... Since the motor was out of a different sled, just make sure it's sitting in there correctly. It should be bolted directly to a thick aluminum plate/cradle, then that plate is mounted to the chassis and that's where the motor mounts are. If the motor isn't in the location or orientation it should be, it could cause a slipping issue also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I’m pretty sure the mount is good, but it’s a great point. I’ll check that too. You’re right, you never know with some people…🤦🏻
 

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Does the sled's belt slip when using for 2 x riders (equal to 500+ lbs)?

Is there an upgrade to make the ice shake slide easier on the ice / snow?

Just wondering....
 
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