[wbrooks]

Can anyone tell me how they adjust their touring suspension from 1 up to 2 up riding.
Right now my suspension is a bit stiff even with the 100 LB wife on the back,
I think the springs are at their minimum tension on the triangle blocks shown here

[attachment=62802:susp2.jpg]

The block I am pointing to (below) adds the leaf springs into the suspension which is how I have been riding. They provide enough lift to allow 200+ pound brother to be a passanger without bottoming too much.
When riding one up the suspension is way too stiff. For riding one up do you just drop the leaf springs out? Do you need to secure them to stop them from banging around? how?
Or better yet how do you soften your suspension for 1 up riding.

[attachment=62806:susp1.jpg]

 

[A G]

Yes, just drop out the leaf spring when riding solo.

The idea is to set the triangle blocks the right position for solo, and add the leaf spring when riding with a passenger.

:chug:

 

[wbrooks]

Thanks AG. Any tips for setting the front arm coil spring tension (rear suspension). I have been reading the service manual and it suggests that the tension should be set as soft as possible. Looking at this sled it is set wrong. The coil spring is wound all the way up for maximum tension yet the rear arm tension spring is set to position 1 (lowest possible for up to 150LB rider). So far my plan is to set the rear arm to position 2 (up to 200 LBS) and wind down the front arm coil spring so that only a 2 to 3 threads are visible and see if it bottoms too much. If it does bottom I will add more tension to the front arm coil spring.

 

[PurplePowerLube]

I have exactly the same machine. My advice to you, so to make changes from one up to two up riding as painless as possible, buy a quality 3/8 drive ratchet, short extension and proper spark plug socket.

Use these tools to engage and disengage your leaf spring engagement blocks. Do not attempt to use the on board tools (the spark plug wrench/socket and the screwdriver) if you value your knuckles!

Keep these tools on board with you so you can change both your coil spring settings and engage and disengage your overload springs.

Your coil spring adjustment blocks are only plastic and therefore crappy tools will likely end up rounding the corners on the block.

You will be glad you made the investment, believe me!

Ben

 

[wbrooks]

First - thanks AG and PurplePowerLube

This all started with changing a seized rear idler and turned into a complete skid rebuild.
Once I started looking closer I found a few bearing inserts that were melted so I figured I better pull the skid.
Then found 3 bad bearings so I figured I better change them all. Once the skid was apart I found the front spring shock mounting holes were egged and one was so bad that it was splitting at the top. Disassembled the entire rail and took them to be welded. Drilled new holes and reassembled.
Then dropped the spring tension from fully tightened to about 3/4"of thread showing and put the rear springs into notch 2. Well it rides like a new sled, no more tipping in the corners or bucking over bumps.
Its a pleasure to ride now. Thanks again

 

[kev]

I noticed you have the rydeFX shocks. When you had the skid out did you notice if the shocks still function? With our ZL (2500miles) the rear skid shock would not rebound at all. I didn't check out the others, since I don't have replacements for them yet. You might want to look at a set of Fox or ACT shocks over the summer. They aren't too hard to rebuild yourself. I'll help if you like

I would agree having that center shock so tight probably did a number on the rails since the weight of the entire sled would basically pivot around that center point. I can imagine how much better the ride would be.

 

[wbrooks]

KEV, shocks seemed Ok, but I figure it will need a new track this summer so I will do shocks and drive bearings, chain, gears, seals ETC. Definitely welcome to help

 

[PurplePowerLube]

I am still working with my 600 TT rear suspension and clutching. Wayne, can you tell me how your machine runs and particularly at about 6000 rpm.

Mine works fine up to about 6000 rpm then your gone, I mean it takes right off. If your not paying attention it actually pretty annoying. It will wind up to 7 grand in an instant.

If you try and back off the throttle you drop right back to about 5500 or so (and your speed follows). Its almost like their is no constant in the CVT clutch.

I have worked on it all day, cleaning the primary and secondary, resetting the secondary spring to the next hole and yet no luck.

My pantenra is very smooth with none of these issues.

How does your 600 work??

Ben

 

[wbrooks]

Mine is really smooth on acceleration and cruise, I do cruise around 5500 to 6000 at about 30 MPH on hard pack, on the lake it will cruise at 7000 RPM at about 70 MPH, pinned its 8500 RPM and you need to back off the throttle for fear of launching into space on a drift (hit a good sized one at 95 MPH, wish I had a video).

For the clutching, have you tried it on a stand and watch the clutches shift, you may see a sticky spot. What speed do you find it happening at? When you are at 6000 and it jumps to 7000 what is happening? Are you squeezing the throttle and then it just jumps to 7000? Can you hear the engine load more as you squeeze and the rpms stay at 6K then jump to 7K? When you pin it are the RPM's 8500? Engage at 3500? When you climb a hill (not real steep just a longer incline but enough that you can see you are going up) and you keep the throttle in the same position does the sled slow and the RPM stay the same (backshifting properly) or do the RPM's drop with the sled speed (not backshifting)
What springs and weights do you have in the primary? (stock 01 - 50.0 G and red/white spring)
Secondary? (stock - Red) what hole? When you said you reset to the next hole which way did you go? To the right - more preload.

 

[PurplePowerLube]

Im crusing at about 25 miles an hour at about 5500 rpm or so. As I move the throttle up a bit the RPM begins to climb. Now with out touching the throttle at all, as soon as the tach hits 6000 rpm you are off to 7000 - 7200 in a shot and up to 40 plus miles per hour. You go to back off the throttle and you are almost instantly back down to 5500 rpm and about 25 miles an hour.

Its like it has a hole in the power band. Its either on or off. You can be crusing through a field at 7000 rpm, hit a patch of loose snow and back down to 5500 you go.

You then must give it enough fuel to bring your RPM and speed back up.

My engagement, and I paid special attention to this because I knew this question was going to be asked, is 4500 rpm.

I noticed that on Browns Liesure World the correct spring for the primary is Yellow Green and Yellow for the secondary. Mine is red in the primary same as my 02 Pantera.

I originally thought that the secondary was putting the machine in too high a gear to quickly so I tightened the secondary spring by one hole so that it would not shift out as soon.

The only real change was in top speed (dropped). The RPM hole still exists even with the secoundary change.

You want to talk about an anoying ride. I have my 5 year old on the back and am afraid to give the poor little guy whiplash LOL.

I also backed the tension off on the track to see if possibly I had too much rolling resistance. Again no change.

I have cleaned all the parts properly and I watched the clutches run while the machine was on the stand and they seemed to be working fine!

Motor pulls hard and it is an absolute rocket (when I have no kids on the back). Try and drive it sensibly and you are all over the map.

Completely uncontrollable unless you just feather the throttle very gentley up and down to control your speed and rpm.

I also notice that I only got about 100 miles to the tank. I have adjusted my needles (move the clip up, needle down). Plugs look great.

How is yours for fuel?

Any help with this machine would be great.

Maybe you could send me your clutch LOL!

Ben

 

[wbrooks]

Our engines are slightly different as mine has power valves. I get 10-11 MPG but I am jetted rich as the plugs are dark brown (next item on my tuning list). Is your engine designed to engage at 4500 stock? Mine is 3500 engage and 8500 shift out.
I think your clutches have been messed with and are likely the cause of your strange shift pattern. Your sled should have 48.5 g weights (0746-582) and a Y/G primary but you have a red primary on it. The two springs have the same rate but very different engage and full shift pressures. If you have stock weights and you now have a red spring there is no way you should be engaging at 4500 RPM. The initial spring pressure on the Y/G is 114 LBS, the engage on a red is only 74 LBS. Have you pulled the weights to see what they are and if the bearings, washers and pins are in good shape? Use a new lock nut for sure but best to replace all if any signs of wear, make sure the spider is in good shape - no cracks.
Do you have a funky cam (helix) in the secondary or is it the stock 55.
With the throttle pinned do the RPM's stay at 8500 (stock for mine, not sure about yours) from 15 MPH to full speed? If not what happens at what speed.

My sled has 50g primary weights, Red primary. R/W secondary and 51 cam

 

[PurplePowerLube]

I will check all this out. There is no doubt that I must have a problem with the primary clutch. I am going to bring it to my dealer and have them look at it tommorow.

I am not that well schooled in the art of clutching. I have no problems with the techincal aspects of the engine and the skidframe but clutching is one thing I have never had the time to dive into.

I will keep you posted on what we find.

I cant wait to see how this machine will respond once the clutching is sorted out.

I can tell you that it is much much heavier than my Pantera but it looks way cooler.

I liken this machine to a 69 Hemi Cuda, great from light to light, a bit to handle in the twistys.

Ben

 

[PurplePowerLube]

Wayne:

Had the primary clutch completely rebuilt with all cat parts.

The only original parts is the stationary sheave and the spider. Everything else is new.

I replaced the orginal red spring with the proper yellow green.

It is about 80 percent better. I still have my secondary wound too tight.

Other than that it seems to shift much better now.

I am up in Orillia for 3 days of snowmobiling on Sparrow Lake.

I guess I am going to have to give all the compontents some time to break in before I will know the full effects of the investment in the primary.

There was a lot of wear in the bearing on the movable sheave. Unfortunately you cannot buy the bearing alone. You have to buy the whole piece.

Not a bad thing though because with that you get all new towers with zero wear.

Well see how it works over the next couple days.

Ben

 

[wbrooks]

Glad to hear you are working out the bugs, sounds like you will have a great 3 days. Let us know how everything works out, may want a new secondary spring to keep up with the new primary

 

[PurplePowerLube]

Wayne

Machine is doing almost exactly the same thing.

It is a little more controllable now and RPM drop is not a severe.

It is like the machine jumps up to a taller gear and then it will not gradually switch back to a lower gear (staying in the taller ratio and pulling the RPMs down).

Almost like the secondary is not backshifting properly.

The fella that repaired my clutch told me that problem may be due to the pipes comming on and off and I may have to live with this????

I know your engine is a little different, but they have to be reasonably close.

What would cause the secondary to stick??? I disassembled it twice, cleaned it, cleaned the sheaves with 220 sandpaper, washed all parts with break cleaner and reassembled.

I may try the secondary off my Pantera as they are exactly the same.

I have the secondary on my TT in the secound tightest hold to try and get it back shift better.

Should I have gone the other way and decreased the spring pressure in the secondary?

Let me know what you think.

Top RPM is 8500 rpm.

Any help would be appreciated.

Ben

 

[wbrooks]

Shift RPM is right, trying the other secondary would help eliminate things in a hurry.
When you have the secondary out pull the spring and put it back together. Try to move the sheave up and down by pushing on an outside edge. If the sheave sticks the bushings are toast.

 

[PurplePowerLube]

Okay

Will try that. The bushings were toast in the primary, that is why I purchased a whole new tower complete with new bushing\bearing.

The old comet\cat clutches you could purchase the bearing seperately. Not any more. Not a bad thing though as the towers were worn where the buttons slide up and down.

I will let you know how the other secondary works.

Thanks
Ben