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Make sure the tab on the motor that pushes the micro switch is not broken
 

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Make sure the tab on the motor that pushes the micro switch is not broken
Does not seem to be. Everything with it seems 100%. it just does not make any noise thus the motor does not turn when you switch back on the bars
 

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2007 400 4x4 actuator manual conversion

does anyone know where I can find a manual conversion to replace my broken 4wd actuator motor ?
 

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Help

Hey guys, the 4wd just stopped working and I'm trying to rally to get this working again before hunting.

The 4wd indicator comes on immediately when 4wd switch is flipped, and no noise from the actuator at all.
Odd because usually before you'd usually have to move it a little with wheels turned, then it would slip into 4wd and you'd hear the actuator go.

Anyways this is a great thread. One thing I'm not sure on, where is this actuator? Is it on the front differential? There is some sort of electrical box on there.

The atv does have diff locks and this feature does seem to work (hard steering) but still no 4wd.
2005 400 4x4 automatic.
Mainly concerned about the location of actuator but if you guys have any other input I'd love to hear it!
 

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The black box on the front diff is the actuator.

Test the switch and the plug by the actuator. A test light of voltmeter will do the job

If that doesn't fix it pull the actuator and open it up. Might be wet and or dirty inside. Clean dry and test again.

If that doesn't work order a new one, make sure it's sealed up really good.
 

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arctic cat 650 h1 4wd actuator

Good day, maybe who have changed the actuator of the electric motor, do you know where to buy it.
 

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arctic cat 650 h1 4wd actuator

Good day, maybe who have changed the actuator of the electric motor, do you know where to buy it.
 

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arctic cat 650 h1 4wd actuator

Hello, maybe who are you switching the gear motor, do you know where to buy an electric motor.
 

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So for anyone who has ordered a new actuator, does it come sealed up good or have you taken your new one apart and sealed it good before install?
 

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0502-296 Actuator (3-wire) removal and disassembly

My actuator had diff oil leaking on it. The diff had too much oil in it causing the oil to seep out around the actuator where it plugs into the differential. So I tore into it to see if any oil had gotten into the actuator. There wasn’t any oil inside the actuator, so I decided to seal the actuator with RTV after I checked it out. Here's how I did it.


1. Remove screw and zip ties from the inner fender panel and remove the panel. (Fig. 1)



2. Lift up tab on actuator connector and disconnect from the main wire harness. (Fig. 2)

3. Loosen the front screw and remove the bottom and rear screws using a Torx T30. (Fig. 3)

4. Slide the actuator backwards off the front screw to remove it (Fig. 4 and 4a).
I see that instead of replacing the actuator
It's possible to change it to Manuel by making it up on a knob
Can anyone show or tell me how to do this
My actuator is unresponsive and no cash to replace it .
Thu in advance

Louis
 

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Similar problem

I'll start off by saying its a '03 or '04 model. I was told a 400, but decals are missing. I got it from a trader. Its in good shape overall. Just a few things (tie rod, rear brake, carb, and this actuator).

I don't hear any sound coming from the actuator. The wheeler itself seems to be stuck in 2wd, best I can tell (w/o jacking it up and still haven't cleaned the carb, as it runs well for now until under load).

What I've done so far is I cleaned the 2wd/4wd switch (very well), made sure it and actuator had a good connection, checked fuses, and last I took the face plate off the actuator. There was water/rusty lookin stuff in there. I took WD40 and cleaned everything well. One thing I noticed is the motor didn't turn by hand (not sure if it should).

Does this sound like a bad actuator or possible something else?
Thanks in advance for any response.
I've got a 2006 700 EFI burnt orange
The actuator just stopped working altogether no noise whatsoever
I checked the fuse under the seat all are good
Are there any other fuses to check
I will go at it with the tester tonight following the recommendations in this tread thank you in advance for your help
 

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15. I applied RTV to the groove on the back side where the two halves of the cover come together (Fig. 14). Make sure to get a little extra around the wires (Fig. 15). Then I smoothed the bead and pushed the RTV into the hard to reach corners with my finger and the soapy water, also check the actuator O-ring (Part # 0423-498 which was replaced by 0423-892 and measures 5/16" x 7/16" x 1/16", should be able to find replacements at hardware or parts store for a fraction of dealer price) to make sure it’s not cracked or damaged (Fig. 15a). Flip the actuator and RTV the screw heads too (Fig. 16). Let the RTV cure for 24 hours. If you ever need to remove the RTV, just pour some isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol 91%) on it and work it under the edge of the RTV. It should come off fairly easily once the alcohol gets under the RTV.


16. Reconnect the actuator wire back to the main harness. Turn the key on and flip the switch to 4WD. It’ll make it easier to install. Install the actuator into the differential and line up the front slot onto the front screw, but don’t tighten it yet. Install the screw on the back of the actuator and tighten it. This screw seats the actuator in the diff. Install the lower screw, then tighten it and the front screw. Bolt and zip tie the inner fender panel back on and you are done.



I did notice a couple things about the actuator while I had it apart. This may help with troubleshooting.


A. If it runs continuously, more than likely a gear has stripped out and you’ll need a new actuator. When a gear strips, the worm gear assembly can’t slide back and forth to trip the limit switches. The motor then runs constantly. If a gear is stripped, then it’s time for a new actuator.


B. The electronics in this thing are very simple. Should be able to look up parts to find replacements. They are probably readily available and inexpensive. There are three transistors (Q1, Q2, and Q3), two limit switches (SW1 and SW2), a relay (K1), three resistors (R1, R2, and R3), a larger diode (D1), two smaller diodes (D4 and D5), and finally the servo motor.


C. I added a pin out of the bottom of the circuit card assembly to aid trouble shooting. The K1 relay is a single pole double throw, which means it changes the direction of the servo motor by changing polarity of the power going to the motor's terminals depending on whether 2wd or 4wd is activated.


Replacement parts

A. Limit switches (SW1 and SW2), Cherry Electronics Part # DH2CB1PA

About $2- 4 each, depending on where you buy them. Sager had the lowest price at around $2.
General Info
Data sheet
Where to buy
B. Duża dioda (D1), International Rectifier Part # 50WQ03FN
Arkusz danych
Gdzie kupić
C. Przekaźnik (K1), część Omron # G8ND-2-DC12-SK
Arkusz danych
Gdzie kupić
G8ND-2-DC12 * Omron Electronics w magazynie Stan: 6/28/12 za $ 33 z dnia 4/20/2013
D. Rezystory (R1, R2 i R3), zaktualizuję z dokładnymi numerami części i miejscami do zakupu później
Wartości rezystora: R1 jest rezystorem 1K omów. Zarówno R2, jak i R3 to rezystory o wartości 3,3 K.
Należy określić fizyczny rozmiar rezystorów. Nie mierzyłem ich, gdy miałem mój siłownik osobno. Wystarczy zmierzyć długość i szerokość i użyć odpowiedniej liczby dla rozmiaru. Oto tabela różnych rozmiarów.
Prostokątne elementy pasywne:
  • 01005 (metryczny 0402): 0,01 × 0,008 cala (0,41 × 0,20 mm) Typowa moc znamionowa dla rezystorów 1/32 W
  • 0201 (0603 metryczne): 0,01 × 0,012 cala (0,61 × 0,30 mm) Typowa moc znamionowa dla rezystorów 1/20 W
  • 0402 (1005 metrycznych): 0,04 × 0,02 cala (1,0 × 0,51 mm) Typowa moc znamionowa dla rezystorów 1/16 W
  • 0603 (metr 1608): 0,063 × 0,031 cala (1,6 × 0,79 mm) Typowa moc znamionowa dla rezystorów 1/16 W
  • 0805 (metrycznie z 2012 r.): 0,08 × 0,05 cala (2,0 × 1,3 mm) Typowa moc znamionowa dla rezystorów 1/10 W
  • 1206 (metryczny 3216): 0,126 x 0,063 cala (3,2 x 1,6 mm) Typowa moc znamionowa rezystorów 1/8 wata
  • 1210 (3225 metryczne): 0,122 × 0,1 cala (3,2 × 2,5 mm) Typowa moc znamionowa dla rezystorów 1/4 W
  • 1806 (4516 metryczne): 0,177 × 0,063 cala (4,5 × 1,6 mm)
  • 1812 (4532 metryczne): 0,18 × 0,12 cala (4,6 × 3,0 mm) Typowa moc znamionowa dla rezystorów 1/2 W
  • 2010 (5025 metryczny): 0,2 × 0,1 cala (5,1 × 2,5 mm) Typowa moc znamionowa dla rezystorów 1/2 wata
  • 2512 (6432 metryczne): 0,25 × 0,12 cala (6,3 × 3,0 mm) Typowa moc znamionowa dla rezystorów 1 wat
[/ZACYTOWAĆ]
W.
W pobliżuHello.
Muszę kupić Q1 i D4
Czy ktoś wie, jakie są ich dokładne oznaczenia lub
15. I applied RTV to the groove on the back side where the two halves of the cover come together (Fig. 14). Make sure to get a little extra around the wires (Fig. 15). Then I smoothed the bead and pushed the RTV into the hard to reach corners with my finger and the soapy water, also check the actuator O-ring (Part # 0423-498 which was replaced by 0423-892 and measures 5/16" x 7/16" x 1/16", should be able to find replacements at hardware or parts store for a fraction of dealer price) to make sure it’s not cracked or damaged (Fig. 15a). Flip the actuator and RTV the screw heads too (Fig. 16). Let the RTV cure for 24 hours. If you ever need to remove the RTV, just pour some isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol 91%) on it and work it under the edge of the RTV. It should come off fairly easily once the alcohol gets under the RTV.


16. Reconnect the actuator wire back to the main harness. Turn the key on and flip the switch to 4WD. It’ll make it easier to install. Install the actuator into the differential and line up the front slot onto the front screw, but don’t tighten it yet. Install the screw on the back of the actuator and tighten it. This screw seats the actuator in the diff. Install the lower screw, then tighten it and the front screw. Bolt and zip tie the inner fender panel back on and you are done.



I did notice a couple things about the actuator while I had it apart. This may help with troubleshooting.


A. If it runs continuously, more than likely a gear has stripped out and you’ll need a new actuator. When a gear strips, the worm gear assembly can’t slide back and forth to trip the limit switches. The motor then runs constantly. If a gear is stripped, then it’s time for a new actuator.


B. The electronics in this thing are very simple. Should be able to look up parts to find replacements. They are probably readily available and inexpensive. There are three transistors (Q1, Q2, and Q3), two limit switches (SW1 and SW2), a relay (K1), three resistors (R1, R2, and R3), a larger diode (D1), two smaller diodes (D4 and D5), and finally the servo motor.


C. I added a pin out of the bottom of the circuit card assembly to aid trouble shooting. The K1 relay is a single pole double throw, which means it changes the direction of the servo motor by changing polarity of the power going to the motor's terminals depending on whether 2wd or 4wd is activated.


Replacement parts

A. Limit switches (SW1 and SW2), Cherry Electronics Part # DH2CB1PA

About $2- 4 each, depending on where you buy them. Sager had the lowest price at around $2.
General Info
Data sheet
Where to buy
B. Large diode (D1), International Rectifier Part # 50WQ03FN
Data sheet
Where to buy
C. Relay (K1), Omron part # G8ND-2-DC12-SK
Data sheet
Where to buy
G8ND-2-DC12 * Omron Electronics w magazynie Stan: 6/28/12 za $ 33 z dnia 4/20/2013
RE. Resistors (R1, R2, & R3), I'll update with exact part numbers and places to purchase later
Wartości rezystora: R1 jest rezystorem 1K omów. Zarówno R2, jak i R3 to rezystory o wartości 3,3 K.
Należy określić fizyczny rozmiar rezystorów. Nie mierzyłem ich, gdy miałem mój siłownik osobno. Wystarczy zmierzyć długość i szerokość i użyć odpowiedniej liczby dla rozmiaru. Oto tabela różnych rozmiarów.
Prostokątne elementy pasywne:
  • 01005 (metryczny 0402): 0,01 × 0,008 cala (0,41 × 0,20 mm) Typowa moc znamionowa dla rezystorów 1/32 W
  • 0201 (0603 metryczne): 0,01 × 0,012 cala (0,61 × 0,30 mm) Typowa moc znamionowa dla rezystorów 1/20 W
  • 0402 (1005 metrycznych): 0,04 × 0,02 cala (1,0 × 0,51 mm) Typowa moc znamionowa dla rezystorów 1/16 W
  • 0603 (metr 1608): 0,063 × 0,031 cala (1,6 × 0,79 mm) Typowa moc znamionowa dla rezystorów 1/16 W
  • 0805 (metrycznie z 2012 r.): 0,08 × 0,05 cala (2,0 × 1,3 mm) Typowa moc znamionowa dla rezystorów 1/10 W
  • 1206 (metryczny 3216): 0,126 x 0,063 cala (3,2 x 1,6 mm) Typowa moc znamionowa rezystorów 1/8 wata
  • 1210 (3225 metryczne): 0,122 × 0,1 cala (3,2 × 2,5 mm) Typowa moc znamionowa dla rezystorów 1/4 W
  • 1806 (4516 metryczne): 0,177 × 0,063 cala (4,5 × 1,6 mm)
  • 1812 (4532 metryczne): 0,18 × 0,12 cala (4,6 × 3,0 mm) Typowa moc znamionowa dla rezystorów 1/2 W
  • 2010 (5025 metryczny): 0,2 × 0,1 cala (5,1 × 2,5 mm) Typowa moc znamionowa dla rezystorów 1/2 wata
  • 2512 (6432 metryczne): 0,25 × 0,12 cala (6,3 × 3,0 mm) Typowa moc znamionowa dla rezystorów 1 wat
[/ZACYTOWAĆ]
Witaj.
Muszę kupić Q1 i D4
Czy ktoś wie, jakie są ich dokładne oznaczenia lub parametry?

364421
 

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15. I applied RTV to the groove on the back side where the two halves of the cover come together (Fig. 14). Make sure to get a little extra around the wires (Fig. 15). Then I smoothed the bead and pushed the RTV into the hard to reach corners with my finger and the soapy water, also check the actuator O-ring (Part # 0423-498 which was replaced by 0423-892 and measures 5/16" x 7/16" x 1/16", should be able to find replacements at hardware or parts store for a fraction of dealer price) to make sure it’s not cracked or damaged (Fig. 15a). Flip the actuator and RTV the screw heads too (Fig. 16). Let the RTV cure for 24 hours. If you ever need to remove the RTV, just pour some isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol 91%) on it and work it under the edge of the RTV. It should come off fairly easily once the alcohol gets under the RTV.


16. Reconnect the actuator wire back to the main harness. Turn the key on and flip the switch to 4WD. It’ll make it easier to install. Install the actuator into the differential and line up the front slot onto the front screw, but don’t tighten it yet. Install the screw on the back of the actuator and tighten it. This screw seats the actuator in the diff. Install the lower screw, then tighten it and the front screw. Bolt and zip tie the inner fender panel back on and you are done.



I did notice a couple things about the actuator while I had it apart. This may help with troubleshooting.


A. If it runs continuously, more than likely a gear has stripped out and you’ll need a new actuator. When a gear strips, the worm gear assembly can’t slide back and forth to trip the limit switches. The motor then runs constantly. If a gear is stripped, then it’s time for a new actuator.


B. The electronics in this thing are very simple. Should be able to look up parts to find replacements. They are probably readily available and inexpensive. There are three transistors (Q1, Q2, and Q3), two limit switches (SW1 and SW2), a relay (K1), three resistors (R1, R2, and R3), a larger diode (D1), two smaller diodes (D4 and D5), and finally the servo motor.


C. I added a pin out of the bottom of the circuit card assembly to aid trouble shooting. The K1 relay is a single pole double throw, which means it changes the direction of the servo motor by changing polarity of the power going to the motor's terminals depending on whether 2wd or 4wd is activated.


Replacement parts

A. Limit switches (SW1 and SW2), Cherry Electronics Part # DH2CB1PA

About $2- 4 each, depending on where you buy them. Sager had the lowest price at around $2.
General Info
Data sheet
Where to buy
B. Large diode (D1), International Rectifier Part # 50WQ03FN
Data sheet
Where to buy
C. Relay (K1), Omron part # G8ND-2-DC12-SK
Data sheet
Where to buy
G8ND-2-DC12*Omron Electronics in stock as of 6/28/12 for $33 as of 4/20/2013
D. Resistors (R1, R2, & R3), I'll update with exact part numbers and places to purchase later
Resistor Values: R1 is a 1K ohm resistor. R2 and R3 are both 3.3K ohm resistors.
The physical size of the resistors need to be determined. I did not measure them when I had my actuator apart. Just measure the length and width and use the corresponding number for the size. Here is a chart of the different sizes.
Rectangular passive components:
  • 01005 (0402 metric): 0.016 × 0.008 in (0.41 × 0.20 mm) Typical power rating for resistors 1/32 watt
  • 0201 (0603 metric): 0.024 × 0.012 in (0.61 × 0.30 mm) Typical power rating for resistors 1/20 watt
  • 0402 (1005 metric): 0.04 × 0.02 in (1.0 × 0.51 mm) Typical power rating for resistors 1/16 watt
  • 0603 (1608 metric): 0.063 × 0.031 in (1.6 × 0.79 mm) Typical power rating for resistors 1/16 watt
  • 0805 (2012 metric): 0.08 × 0.05 in (2.0 × 1.3 mm) Typical power rating for resistors 1/10 watt
  • 1206 (3216 metric): 0.126 × 0.063 in (3.2 × 1.6 mm) Typical power rating for resistors 1/8 watt
  • 1210 (3225 metric): 0.126 × 0.1 in (3.2 × 2.5 mm) Typical power rating for resistors 1/4 watt
  • 1806 (4516 metric): 0.177 × 0.063 in (4.5 × 1.6 mm)
  • 1812 (4532 metric): 0.18 × 0.12 in (4.6 × 3.0 mm) Typical power rating for resistors 1/2 watt
  • 2010 (5025 metric): 0.2 × 0.1 in (5.1 × 2.5 mm) Typical power rating for resistors 1/2 watt
  • 2512 (6432 metric): 0.25 × 0.12 in (6.3 × 3.0 mm) Typical power rating for resistors 1 watt
Thank you for your help. I replaced the relay and that solved my problem.
 

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Has anyone else had the problem of the actuator wire being routed too close to the exhaust pipe and burning the wires?Insulation was burned right off a couple of the wires, shorting it out. (2009 Thundercat 1000cc). The 4wd seemed to be on all the time. Only noticed the wiring problem when changing the plugs (to the new NGK Iridium ;-)

Does anyone know if you can buy a new actuator wiring harness? If not I guess I'll have to wire up a new one.
 

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I looked for a replacement (4-wire) actuator and could not find ANY online or dealer. One finally showed up on Ebay new for $396 but Owch ! Here's how i troubleshooted:
I tore into my unit and found a little transmission oil but no water inside. Everything looked ok gear-wise - the spring did pop out of its guide when i opened the case but i think thats normal due to the spring tension when its would all the way in 2WD. I put a DVM on the motor contacts with the motor removed - still hooked to the wiring harness and got 12V+ and 12V- depending on the position of the handlebar switch. YAY everything seemed to be working good so it must be the motor - right ? I cleaned the contacts, board and motor itself with electronics cleaner and plugged the motor back in - SUCCESS MOTOR TURNED BOTH WAYS !! So put it all back together in the case and tried it again - no luck - the motor went 1 direction and then just stopped dead same as when i started. I tried this probably a dozen times it would sometimes work once or twice then it would stick and refuse to reverse. The micro switches seemed OK as the clicked and tested open/close good with an Ohm meter. I then took short wires and inserted them into the motor sockets and tried connecting them to the board contacts - the motor ran both directions just fine by switching the polarity of where i connected the wires to the board. The issue seemed to be with the switching of polarity on the board which is handled by the relay - it works whenever it feels like it. Cabin MN above made me think this must be the cause.

Long story short i ordered a new relay - desoldered the old relay (1st time thank you ) and soldered the new one in - Presto ! works both directions every time even when fully assembled in the case.

An important note i wanted to pass on - the relay spec'd by member CR724 [Omron part # G8ND-2-DC12-SK ] is correct but its like $45. I looked on Digi-Key and found the spec sheets for these relays and they have the same part number without the -SK suffix sells for $4.30 which is why i took the chance that i could actually fix this thing. here is the link to Digi-Key:


TRY IT !!!! maybe youll be out $10 with shipping if you screw it up - better than almost $400 if you can find a new one.
Cheers
 

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Awesome thanks!!
 
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