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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to put brakes on the rear of my 400 4x4. It's a 04. Do you have to split the caliper to change the pads? If so how much of a bitch are they to bleed? What do pads cost? Man I wish this thing had a wet brake!
 

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if anything like my 05 its so simple, just like doin the car, only smaller
 

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yeah the 05's are simple and was going to chime in last night but have not done a 04, think it's a bit different but i am betting on that you will have to just take calaper off machine (two bolts) and then pads should come out fairly easily. moose, ebc, are a few brands but not sure on the prices but i would compair/shop around. have seen many pads on e-bay.
 

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No you don't have to split it or break the line loose. Just unbolt the calipher from the spindle, and you'll see how they come off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How do you push the pistons back? Do I have to crack the bleeder to do it or loosen the resivor cap? Also can I use DOT 3 barke fluid?
 

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i use welding vicegrips but with using the old pads mabey try with a skrewdriver or c-clamp. i do one at a time and put back on and squeeze the lever/foot brake as to put the piston back in place before next side/set so i don't need to worry about opening rez or loosing fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all the help. I should have the parts tomarrow. Do the rears normally wear out before the fronts? Can I use dot 3?
 

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not sure about wear, noticed mine the foot brake is like new while the other one in the rear and two in the front are 1/2-3/4 wore. might want to check your owners manual but i believe dot 3 is acceptable.
 

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Just done mine on the weekend. Make sure when you're pushing the cups back, that you put even pressure on both sides. I used two sets of channel locks, and they went back no problem. I took the cap off the master cylinder so the fluid could flow back. I changed all 3 sets. I noticed now, that the handle comes almost all the way back to the bars, and I know I didn't get any air in the system, as I didn't open it up. Any ideas? It will build pressure by pumping it, and it stops good, just not used to the low handle. I had brake fluid spilling out when I put the cap back on the reservoir too.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Bluethumb @ Apr 23 2007, 06:41 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Just done mine on the weekend. Make sure when you're pushing the cups back, that you put even pressure on both sides. I used two sets of channel locks, and they went back no problem. I took the cap off the master cylinder so the fluid could flow back. I changed all 3 sets. I noticed now, that the handle comes almost all the way back to the bars, and I know I didn't get any air in the system, as I didn't open it up. Any ideas? It will build pressure by pumping it, and it stops good, just not used to the low handle. I had brake fluid spilling out when I put the cap back on the reservoir too.[/b]

I always open the bleeder valves when I am doing the brakes to flush out the old fluid. Pushing old contaminated fluid past the seals can cause exactly what you have described. It will tear up the seals and cause issues down the line. I know the system is sealed but as with anything comtaminents can get in. I do the brakes as follows...

do one caliper at a time and have 2 people handle. Use a C - clamp on the old pad and the back of the caliper. Have the person in charge of the c clamp apply constant even pressure. open up the bleeders to a med drip and slowly let the piston slide back into the caliper. Make sure to close the bleeder before reducting pressure on the C- clamp. After all are bleed add new pads and top off resivior
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Bluethumb @ Apr 23 2007, 06:41 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
. I had brake fluid spilling out when I put the cap back on the reservoir too.[/b]

if you have never added fluid then you have air in the system. you now have more fluid than the resivior can handle, something is taking up the additional space and it must be air. try to gravity bleed them all 3 at one time for a while and see what happens
 

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Shouldn't have air, the system was never drained of fluid, and the lever doesn't feel "spongy". it's just low. Good point about pushing the cups back though, wish I'd have thought of that before I did it, hope I didn't cause any damage. I think I may have pushed the cups back a little further than they were from the factory. I just made sure they were almost flush with the caliper body. Didn't go past that. I was just able to get the new pads in there and over the rotor though, so they had to go back that far. Can this system be bled like a car, or do I have to vacuum bleed them?
 

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As to your bleeding question I know they can be bleed using the 2 person one with the box wrench and one pumping the brakes method. Not too sure about the gravity bleed, but thats my personal favorite. The vac bleeder works well, but i only use it is I have no helper
 
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