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Bought with 6mi on it in sept 2019 and put 348 miles on it and only issues i noticed was screeching at idle and under 5mph. Note- top speed 55 mph.
at 98 miles i noticed sound like pocket change rattling through fingers. Took to dealer and he drained rear differential and said it needed new rear differential that the fluid should have had no metal- i laughed and paid $200 for nothing.
Since day 1 the clutch housing cover has been almost too hot to touch reaching 340 (+\- 30) degrees F even after only 3-5 mins of riding.
350 miles and belt breaks at 55mph. Removed primary to clean the heavy build up on faces of clutch and cleaned housing throughly, inspected everything else too.
Installed new belt and kept cover off for the 2 complete warm up/cool down cycles. Screeching only occurred when cold and for first couple mins and when bumping throttle it decreased in sound .
Installed cover for safety reasons and hit 387 miles and it started screeching 80% of first few mins of running after completely cooling for an hour, it would stop when i bumped throttle atleast 3k rpm. Note- top speed 55mph
Took to a different shop, he blamed one way bearing and replaced. Screeching was same, going above 20mph and letting off throttle completely a single knock is heard, bump throttle in or out of gear to 2500 or higher and 3/4 of the decent to idle it also knocks once (like a roller was returning 1/4 of a sec later the rest. Loose change sound reappeared almost all the time. he said its the oneway bearing breaking in and everything would be normal soon.

I put 3 miles on it and decided to take it somewhere else. New shop found the grooves on inner clutch face (for splined shaft) were not lined up correctly when last guy put backon shaft and tightened nut- so the inner face wasnt rotating like it was supposed to- would quit rotating sporadically. He replaced inner face test drive 1/2 a mile and said it topped at 41 mph and cover was extremely hot.

What is causing this please help me! This thing is practically brand new and i hate to have to sell it cuz ill probably loose $1k- paid $4k and put 700$ in belts parts and labor and still not resolved. Listed on fb for 4000 and not one msg about it. smh
 

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Welcome to ArcticChat.

Just out of curiosity, where are you located? That ATV has a stellar record and is not prone to clutch issues.

When you replaced the belt, where did the belt sit in relation to the top of the driven clutch? What belt did you use as a replacement?

Obviously, the heat is caused by belt slip & friction. That can be caused by several things. Improper clutch alignment. Improper belt deflection. Binding in one of the clutches. Wrong belt, etc.......

These are all things that any decent Cat dealer can easily troubleshoot. You're doing the right things- too bad you're running in to dealers that aren't able to troubleshoot it.
 

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A couple of other questions:
Are the ducts to and from the case free and clear of debris? Is that clutch case getting air through the ducts?
Is the drain plug for the clutch case installed properly?
Has that clutch base been blown out/cleaned to get rid of debris or old belt dust from your previous belts?
Are the drive/driven clutches free of oils and greases that would cause the belts to slip and build up heat?
Do you see any weeping on the oil seals behind the clutches?
Does the belt ride even or slightly above the top of the driven clutch?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Welcome to ArcticChat.

Just out of curiosity, where are you located? That ATV has a stellar record and is not prone to clutch issues.

When you replaced the belt, where did the belt sit in relation to the top of the driven clutch? What belt did you use as a replacement?

Obviously, the heat is caused by belt slip & friction. That can be caused by several things. Improper clutch alignment. Improper belt deflection. Binding in one of the clutches. Wrong belt, etc.......

These are all things that any decent Cat dealer can easily troubleshoot. You're doing the right things- too bad you're running in to dealers that aren't able to troubleshoot it.
Im in NC. On secondary it rides at the top and sticks up about 1/8-3/16” higher. then the top of the driven. Its an arctic cat belt but the one before was a g force and they are both the correct belts.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
A couple of other questions:
Are the ducts to and from the case free and clear of debris? Is that clutch case getting air through the ducts?
Is the drain plug for the clutch case installed properly?
Has that clutch base been blown out/cleaned to get rid of debris or old belt dust from your previous belts?
Are the drive/driven clutches free of oils and greases that would cause the belts to slip and build up heat?
Do you see any weeping on the oil seals behind the clutches?
Does the belt ride even or slightly above the top of the driven clutch?
Ducts are both free flowing and the case is getting air. Case has been blown out both times, drain plug is installed correctly, theres no oil in inside the case or on the clutches. No weeping oil at all. Top of belt rides 1/8 to 3/16 above.
I read somewhere that the primary bushing is sometimes defective and causes overheating of belt and case cover and causes belts to blow.

right before the first time i replaced the belt i coul d hear a whining noise.
 

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Little puzzled by the inner half not lining up and rotating as it should? The inner half rotates with the engine unless with not lining it up it was wobbling? If thats the case that guy should be responsible for replacing the inner and outer half as it probably damaged the outer movable half by making things wobble. The outer half has a bushing inside it to help it slide nice and smooth. That bushing can become bad and cause the clutch to close a little off and heat things up and blow belts pretty quick.. Pull your outer and check that bushing.. I always found the clutches run hot in these things. I would also check your rollers/weights while its off overheating will give them flat spots and make things worse.
 

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pull the secondary off, and make sure the spring isn't broken, or that the tab hasn't jumped out of its hole
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Little puzzled by the inner half not lining up and rotating as it should? The inner half rotates with the engine unless with not lining it up it was wobbling? If thats the case that guy should be responsible for replacing the inner and outer half as it probably damaged the outer movable half by making things wobble. The outer half has a bushing inside it to help it slide nice and smooth. That bushing can become bad and cause the clutch to close a little off and heat things up and blow belts pretty quick.. Pull your outer and check that bushing.. I always found the clutches run hot in these things. I would also check your rollers/weights while its off overheating will give them flat spots and make things worse.
ok ty. ill tell the shop where its at now. so what would explain the loss in top speed?
Also someone said there was a TSB that advised permanently removing the oneway bearing, but i cant find any TSB’s period. Any suggestions on finding them?
 

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ok ty. ill tell the shop where its at now. so what would explain the loss in top speed?
Also someone said there was a TSB that advised permanently removing the oneway bearing, but i cant find any TSB’s period. Any suggestions on finding them?
That was for the 550, 650, and 700h1 engiens
 

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if things were wobbling the belt probably could not make it to the top of the clutch to gain top speed.. i would almost bet their are groves in the clutch now as well
 
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