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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
When riding on trail and hitting wot will pull hard from a stop up to 80mph. But when cruising at 30mph or higher and hitting wot. No power at all Will bog or slowly pickup speed. When going in loose snow/off trail. Will hesitate and almost stall engine. Before picking up wot. Will do this on and off all day . Only 1400 miles. Adjusted belt deflection already. Change plugs a few time. New fuel filter. And no code comming on
 

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There are multiple thoughts on this:
  • Some 600's were susceptible to hesitation due to pressure drop in the fuel rail. The 800's were designed with a dampener in the fuel rail to minimize the hesitation
  • I believe there was an ECU flash for early 600's. I think yours is too new for the reflash, but it might be worthwhile to touch base with your dealer to see if there is a reflash
  • I'd test the TSS and eliminate it as your culprit.....
 

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Alhac19 have you found the problem? I have my 2017 ZR6000R XC at the dealer now for the exact same problem,( at slow speeds, pin it and sled will hit 6990 or 7150 rpm, stop accelerating and display the rpm perfectly without variation, until I let off the gas and pin it again) same mileage 1390 mi or so, and they are stumped. Mine was a dealer demo , has full warranty bought in Jan 2021. Before I brought it for them to service i cleaned the apv, adjusted the apv cable lenght, visually looked the primary spring, disassembled cleaned the secondary, and replaced the plugs . Now they won't honor the warranty for time spent so far , except 1 hour , leaving me on the the hook another 2.5 hours of work they performed , and they say they need to take the sled out to verify my complaint, so I will be on the hook for them to trailer the machine out, ride it , and bring it back. I asked them to do this initially but they said they would not need to do that. Any tips will be greatly appreciated. I already contacted Artic cat customer service , they said if they are only approved a hour for diagnosis that's it there is nothing else they can do .
 

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Alhac19 have you found the problem? I have my 2017 ZR6000R XC at the dealer now for the exact same problem,( at slow speeds, pin it and sled will hit 6990 or 7150 rpm, stop accelerating and display the rpm perfectly without variation, until I let off the gas and pin it again) same mileage 1390 mi or so, and they are stumped. Mine was a dealer demo , has full warranty bought in Jan 2021. Before I brought it for them to service i cleaned the apv, adjusted the apv cable lenght, visually looked the primary spring, disassembled cleaned the secondary, and replaced the plugs . Now they won't honor the warranty for time spent so far , except 1 hour , leaving me on the the hook another 2.5 hours of work they performed , and they say they need to take the sled out to verify my complaint, so I will be on the hook for them to trailer the machine out, ride it , and bring it back. I asked them to do this initially but they said they would not need to do that. Any tips will be greatly appreciated. I already contacted Artic cat customer service , they said if they are only approved a hour for diagnosis that's it there is nothing else they can do .
Hello. Most of the ctec2 6000 have ecu and/or program defects. Every dealer is acting stupid and unaware of any problems. From 2014 - date, they all have the same ECU and program, and is complete garbage, dud, worthless, fuked up. Arctic Cat had to REflash 2014 - 2017 from constant complaints of piss poor performance, hesitation and lack of support. Do not even bother with customer NO - service, unless you need an addrelin shot. These are the MOST useless, irritating, rude, bitches who will not call back, return calls, or solve any problem or give salution. There is NO one to contact and get your new machine propperly repaired. Your stuck will the dealer. I bought a 2018 ctec2 6000 El Tigre new, and have had a defalt computer/ecu and or mapping since i picked it up, just took time for myself to know what it is. From a dead stop - top speed when pinned and held, NO issues. From 0,10,20,30,40 and 45mph, and then pinned, NO issues. If tried from 50mph and higher, then may creep a couple digits but thats it. When the throttle is pinned or squeezed to desired speed above 50mph, it does just that, but when thumb pressure is released to stablize, when you pin the throttle now, nothing changes. NO increase in speed, rpm or sound. NO stutter, no hicups, no jerking, no grinding, no nothing. I am now governed for whatever speed im going. In order to increese speed, i must brake back to 40mph and then hit the throttle in order for it to catch whatever and go everytime. So if you are riding quick in tight trails like i do, then you also may have this defect and not even know it, because you are most always in the power range. Get on the lake or a open and straight rail bed, pin the throttle hard to 60 - 70 or 80mph, then release throttle and hold steady, then pin it and hope it reacts and performs propperly. Only way to know 100% if yours is good or bad. Good Luck!
 

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I had a 15, no such issue. My 18 as well. My 20 is the same. No hesitation in any of them. My 15 was jumpy after every start. Power valve doing the cleaning cycle. Plan on ordering a 22 and expect it to be great as well.
 

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Hello. Most of the ctec2 6000 have ecu and/or program defects. Every dealer is acting stupid and unaware of any problems. From 2014 - date, they all have the same ECU and program, and is complete garbage, dud, worthless, fuked up. Arctic Cat had to REflash 2014 - 2017 from constant complaints of piss poor performance, hesitation and lack of support. Do not even bother with customer NO - service, unless you need an addrelin shot. These are the MOST useless, irritating, rude, bitches who will not call back, return calls, or solve any problem or give salution. There is NO one to contact and get your new machine propperly repaired. Your stuck will the dealer. I bought a 2018 ctec2 6000 El Tigre new, and have had a defalt computer/ecu and or mapping since i picked it up, just took time for myself to know what it is. From a dead stop - top speed when pinned and held, NO issues. From 0,10,20,30,40 and 45mph, and then pinned, NO issues. If tried from 50mph and higher, then may creep a couple digits but thats it. When the throttle is pinned or squeezed to desired speed above 50mph, it does just that, but when thumb pressure is released to stablize, when you pin the throttle now, nothing changes. NO increase in speed, rpm or sound. NO stutter, no hicups, no jerking, no grinding, no nothing. I am now governed for whatever speed im going. In order to increese speed, i must brake back to 40mph and then hit the throttle in order for it to catch whatever and go everytime. So if you are riding quick in tight trails like i do, then you also may have this defect and not even know it, because you are most always in the power range. Get on the lake or a open and straight rail bed, pin the throttle hard to 60 - 70 or 80mph, then release throttle and hold steady, then pin it and hope it reacts and performs propperly. Only way to know 100% if yours is good or bad. Good Luck!
Did you get a reflash of the ECU after ?
I asked about it at both dealer and customer service. Never got a direct answer. Is there a tuner that can "clean up" the factory tune?

I received the wrong secondary (B.O.S.S type) spring after , but they have Two tss04 in the post to me now , the primary was correct fitment so I installed it and it helped big time on engagement , low speed trail riding and a lot more responsive when accelerating for jumps , whoops , coming out of a corner. I went with a Dalton 105-240 primary (factory 120-235) , will update when I test secondary springs, also when I recieve my S.S.I kit and mix/match with that.
 

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Forgot to update 😑... classic🙄 ....

But I did get issue resolved

Primary clutch weights where mismatched by .5 and 1.5 grams , I changed them with aftermarket, I matched aftermarket weights to the lightest of the three so they weighed identically by removing a little material from non contact surface the lenght of the weight. I may have be able to match factory weights by the same process , although would have required a substantial amount of weight to be removed compared to aftermarket but I had the new weights already.

Also the thrust washers that allow the weight to rotate on shoulder screw where grooved / rough on the sides that contact the weight, so I replaced those .

Machine worked perfectly after these changes.
 

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Thanks for the update.
@Xcrchar , Going back to your description in post #3. I know that scenario quite well.

I'm not surprised that you found it in the primary. (I'm a little surprised the stock weights varied that much.)

I ride with a group that puts on pretty good miles. Some of the guys think maintenance is putting in gas and oil. They wear out primary clutches and just keep riding. We swap sleds a lot too. It is pretty common to have discussions that go something like this:

"You know your primary is hanging up right? There's a dead spot you have to climb over.

Yeah, I know, it's junk.

Well then, let's see what's wrong. Maybe we can fix it?"

Springs, pins, shoulder bushings, and weights, are easy fixes. I keep a spare set around for a quick swap. I check those rollers a lot too. If the weight is wearing, the roller wears fast and vice versa.
The Team version of the primary does show less early wear which is good. The rollers also hold up better. (check your weights for wear indentations, it helps)
I used to swap pins and bushings on the Cat primaries when the weights were junk. The Team version of those must be made out of precious metal. They are expensive. I don't swap the Team pins and bushings unless I can verify wear.
 
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Thanks for the update.
@Xcrchar , Going back to your description in post #3. I know that scenario quite well.

I'm not surprised that you found it in the primary. (I'm a little surprised the stock weights varied that much.)

I ride with a group that puts on pretty good miles. Some of the guys think maintenance is putting in gas and oil. They wear out primary clutches and just keep riding. We swap sleds a lot too. It is pretty common to have discussions that go something like this:

"You know your primary is hanging up right? There's a dead spot you have to climb over.

Yeah, I know, it's junk.

Well then, let's see what's wrong. Maybe we can fix it?"

Springs, pins, shoulder bushings, and weights, are easy fixes. I keep a spare set around for a quick swap. I check those rollers a lot too. If the weight is wearing, the roller wears fast and vice versa.
The Team version of the primary does show less early wear which is good. The rollers also hold up better. (check your weights for wear indentations, it helps)
I used to swap pins and bushings on the Cat primaries when the weights were junk. The Team version of those must be made out of precious metal. They are expensive. I don't swap the Team pins and bushings unless I can verify wear.
Yes I agree about the "deferred" maintenance approach some/most riders have.

I just crossed over from the Skidoo camp last January. But knew the ZX/Rev/XP platforms, suspensions, engines, and TRA primary/ secondaries inside out for wear items, symptom diagnosis and tuning. Fixed a few nuns and tunnels too 😑

So I hope to become as and more proficient with the Arctic Cat platform, already done quite a lot with this "New " sled ..... Don't you just love the lower steering post design 🤣

What surprised me the most was the dealer stating they checked the primary said it was all good, and wanted me to foot the bill for a new secondary enlou of testing to see if it was the problem. When I brought the machine to them I stated the primary was the only componate I had not checked or cleaned besides checking the ECU .

They lost a good customer after that. I now cross-reference everything I can from oil and fluids to maintenance items (a arm bushings , exhaust gaskets, thrust washers for clutch ect) with the 2020 Yamaha 600 ctec Transporter and buy it at the Yamaha dealer, exact same parts and at a better price ! The Zr6000 XCR specific stuff I get from a dealer 4 hours away and find a friend to pick it up a drop to me or at my cabin (hour away from the good dealer) If not SSI/BDx.

Clutchs should 100% be disassembled , inspected and cleaned every year , especially considering how easy they are to work with compared to the BRP designs .
 
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