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Discussion Starter #1
we replaced the entire brake caliper and when we went to bleed the air out, we could not get the brake to firm up. We followed the manual that says hold the brake, open the bleeder screw and then tighten it up and release we spent about 2 hours and put the entire 12oz bottle of brake fluid in but nothing has worked. the brake it still lose. so can someone tell me how to do it the right way before i drive myself crazy.
 

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bleeders got to be the highest point, otherwise we bleed them backwards
 

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Discussion Starter #5
we noticed that there seems to be no air in the system by the brake lever has no resistance. do not know why this is or how to fix it
 

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This must be frustrating. The prescribed sequence is designed to prevent back flow into the brake caliper cylinders. Having a clear plastic tube between the bleeder fitting and the bottom of a glass container is of value because it allows you to see air and prevents air from back flowing into the brake caliper. You have probably discovered that you can only pump the brake lever three times and the reservoir will be low. If you are pumping clear fluid (no air) thru the system and the lever does not get hard focus on the master cylinder seal.
 

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If you know anybody that has a simple vacuum bleeder,( mac tools, napa have them among others) it will work perfectly on the Procross brakes. Hook up shop air to the bleeder, hook the small hose to the bleeder screw, let it run for a few seconds, and pump the brake lever a few times. You will have a perfect, air free brake system in less than 5 minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If you are pumping clear fluid (no air) thru the system and the lever does not get hard focus on the master cylinder seal.
We’ve never messed with the brakes on sleds at all except putting on new pads so we are supper uneducated when it comes to brakes but how do you focus on the master cylinder seal
 

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Assuming that you have gone thru proper brake bleed procedure and still have no resistance on brake lever a problem in the master cylinder is most probable. If the problem was in the caliper you would have a external leak. The classic master cylinder failure is from a worn seal. This type of failure is more common on old vehicles. A master cylinder is a simple piston pump. The cylinder gets replenished from the reservoir when it is allowed to fully retract in the ‘at rest’ position. Bleeding is not possible If something prevents replenishment such as dirt inside or a maladjustment outside. I have observed that Procross models have very little initial dead band in the brakes. This indicates very little replenishment flow area into the cylinder so when bleeding I would recommend pausing a bit before squeezing lever. The following link has a thorough description How To Bleed Your Brakes.
Steps 6 thru 9 is of value because air bubbles are being pressurized a bit while being surged. On a snowmobile this step does not require a helper. Hope this helps.
 

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We’ve never messed with the brakes on sleds at all except putting on new pads so we are supper uneducated when it comes to brakes but how do you focus on the master cylinder seal
if it worked fine before you did the pad swap it more than likely is not getting all the air out. Also why did you split the caliper for a pad swap? That could be causing an issue too
 
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