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Discussion Starter #1
Hello. I just purchased a 2015 rr 4000 Was looking at a sno pro 500 for my son but came across the 4000 that was cheaper than the sno pro and the plus side it looks badass in my opinion.
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just wondering the best starting point to tune the shocks. it has the EVOL fox floats up front and the fox piggyback in the two rear. I never owned adjustable dampening shocks before. Looks like a dial that says firmer. My plan was to set them at the softest setting and go from there.


I also noticed the front arm of the rear
suspension is different than what I have on my 2012 lxr f1100. Seems the arm is only used for the rr’s and cross country’s from 2014 to 15. Anybody know the difference in ride? Or benefits of this style front arm? On my lxr the rear shock arm mounts to a bracket that is connected to the front arm. On the rr the shock is mounted to its own bolt through the suspension.

if anybody has some ride experience with the rr set up I’m open to suggestions. My son weighs about 150
with gear on.

also without having any power valves what oil have people been running? I’ll probably run the mystik blend since it’s cheaper than the full synthetic
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It also came with the CA Pro RZ skis. What are people’s suggestions for carbide size? Was probably going to get Stud boy shapers in 6 inch carbide? Open to suggestions for carbide length/ brand for the 4000

thanks in advance for any feedback you can provide with the procross 4000!!!

Think Snow
 

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Mystic is good oil. I run sly dogs with 6 inch carbide but also have run C&A Razors with 6 inch. Slow speeds you get a arm work out but moving not much difference. Will dig up info on suspension from my 15 800rr as I weigh about the same.

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The 4000 RR is pretty stiff and is setup for aggressive riding- BUT, it is still very good on the trail. It can be revalved (and many people do), but try it as is to see if it fits your son's riding style and adjust from there. My guess is that it will work well for your son. I am a huge fan of this engine in this chassis and is a great alternative to the "10-'14 Sno Pro 500

As far as oil, you are 100% correct. No APV valves to clean, so Mystik Sea&Snow will work just fine in that sled.
 

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See the pinned topic about suspension set up that will give you a starting point. The rr will ride terrible over small chop compared to an lxr. Anything else it will out perform that sled. The suspension changes in the rr do make a difference over the rest of the line. You can get the rr dialed to handle really flat and planted once you get everything tweaked compared to the rest of the line up. The big thing that needs to be done is the weight transfer needs to be dialed in other wise the sled will fight you especially with those skis on it. They come from the factory with most of the weight in the track so they will want to lift the skis every time you get on the throttle. A lot of people got all wrapped up in air pressures and clicker settings and ignored basic sled up and could never get the rr right. So cat changed it for the new ones lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Mystic is good oil. I run sly dogs with 6 inch carbide but also have run C&A Razors with 6 inch. Slow speeds you get a arm work out but moving not much difference. Will dig up info on suspension from my 15 800rr as I weigh about the same.

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sounds good. Looking forward to your info thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The 4000 RR is pretty stiff and is setup for aggressive riding- BUT, it is still very good on the trail. It can be revalved (and many people do), but try it as is to see if it fits your son's riding style and adjust from there. My guess is that it will work well for your son. I am a huge fan of this engine in this chassis and is a great alternative to the "10-'14 Sno Pro 500

As far as oil, you are 100% correct. No APV valves to clean, so Mystik Sea&Snow will work just fine in that sled.
Thanks for your info. I guess I won’t know much how it was set up until I ride it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
See the pinned topic about suspension set up that will give you a starting point. The rr will ride terrible over small chop compared to an lxr. Anything else it will out perform that sled. The suspension changes in the rr do make a difference over the rest of the line. You can get the rr dialed to handle really flat and planted once you get everything tweaked compared to the rest of the line up. The big thing that needs to be done is the weight transfer needs to be dialed in other wise the sled will fight you especially with those skis on it. They come from the factory with most of the weight in the track so they will want to lift the skis every time you get on the throttle. A lot of people got all wrapped up in air pressures and clicker settings and ignored basic sled up and could never get the rr right. So cat changed it for the new ones lol.
Thanks for letting me know about the pinned section. I’m sure my son won’t complain too much comming from an 80 enticer 250 ?

I noticed the limited straps are pulled up so I was gonna let them out and try to set it up like my lxr before messing with click ers
 

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Heed GregB's advice. I wouldn't let the limiter straps out until you get a chance to ride it.
 

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What hole are they in?? My 129 800 needed the center hole to balance it out. My 600 I went 1 up from full loose
 

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Here is my set up that is in the pinned topic:
Here is where I am now with my settings keep in mind I am 160lbs and with gear and tunnel bag on sled probably 185lbs:
Front Shocks Evol 80, Main 40, compression 4 out from full soft, rebound 3 in from full out
Front track shock compression 5 in from full out
Rear track shock compression 6 in from full out, rebound 8 out from full in.

With regards to limiter strap I tried looser and while was good for some stuff did not like how it cornered. What is a huge improvement for me as I ride on and off trail was getting the speedwerx quick adjust coupler. Off trail deep snow I turn to uncoupled on trail railing corners I like setting #2. All of 5 seconds to change

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Discussion Starter #11
What hole are they in?? My 129 800 needed the center hole to balance it out. My 600 I went 1 up from full loose
They are in the last hole so all the way pulled down. The rear of the strap is tore up from hitting the track. I ordered new.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here is my set up that is in the pinned topic:
Here is where I am now with my settings keep in mind I am 160lbs and with gear and tunnel bag on sled probably 185lbs:
Front Shocks Evol 80, Main 40, compression 4 out from full soft, rebound 3 in from full out
Front track shock compression 5 in from full out
Rear track shock compression 6 in from full out, rebound 8 out from full in.

With regards to limiter strap I tried looser and while was good for some stuff did not like how it cornered. What is a huge improvement for me as I ride on and off trail was getting the speedwerx quick adjust coupler. Off trail deep snow I turn to uncoupled on trail railing corners I like setting #2. All of 5 seconds to change

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Thank you for the information!
361907
FAC113F6-900D-4B16-B0C7-22638A8CC5C8.jpeg

Does this screw do the dampening on the rear shock or rebound? That doesn’t look frail friendly! And I assume it clicks as well FAC113F6-900D-4B16-B0C7-22638A8CC5C8.jpeg

is there a manual for the rear shocks? I found the one for the front evols

I’m also mounting a heated shield plug in....where are people mounting the plug so the recoil doesn’t hit it. I’m thinking above to the right of recoil handle.

thanks again
 

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Thank you for the information!
View attachment 361907 View attachment 361907
Does this screw do the dampening on the rear shock or rebound? That doesn’t look frail friendly! And I assume it clicks as well View attachment 361907

is there a manual for the rear shocks? I found the one for the front evols

I’m also mounting a heated shield plug in....where are people mounting the plug so the recoil doesn’t hit it. I’m thinking above to the right of recoil handle.

thanks again
That is rebound adjustment. Should be 24 clicks, 12 out is factory.
 

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I also was looking for a another SP 500 for my son and came a upon a really Nice 15 4000 RR like yours, My son is 120 with Gear and I followed the guidelines in the sticky above ( could look though my posts I think I made one on here and over at HCS ) I have 6 in Shaper Bars on stock skis, I mounted the Heated shield port above and right of Pull cord and GPS On the Risers. I ended up letting the straps all the way out. I did send all the shocks out to Hygear but just did a stock rebuild, Ill re valve once he weighs a bit more ( Probably next year during rebuild ).
Over all I like the sled, It is stiff and wants to be run hard and RPM's kept up. I added a 4th wheel kit And I kepted the stock clutch springs but just replaced them, I tried a few others and it just never got the correct RPM out of them. I believe I also have the Helix on the 44 Side right now.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
I also was looking for a another SP 500 for my son and came a upon a really Nice 15 4000 RR like yours, My son is 120 with Gear and I followed the guidelines in the sticky above ( could look though my posts I think I made one on here and over at HCS ) I have 6 in Shaper Bars on stock skis, I mounted the Heated shield port above and right of Pull cord and GPS On the Risers. I ended up letting the straps all the way out. I did send all the shocks out to Hygear but just did a stock rebuild, Ill re valve once he weighs a bit more ( Probably next year during rebuild ).
Over all I like the sled, It is stiff and wants to be run hard and RPM's kept up. I added a 4th wheel kit And I kepted the stock clutch springs but just replaced them, I tried a few others and it just never got the correct RPM out of them. I believe I also have the Helix on the 44 Side right now.
Thanks for info. I’ll mount the heated shield port in that area. I put the new limiter straps on. I decided to try it on first hole to begin with. The front shock of the suspension released up a good inch plus Ordered some 6 inch shapers from studboy.
Put new plugs in and found the wires where rubbing on shaft. Glad I spotted that. It was wearing the rubber away but didn’t go all the way through.
 

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Also that limiter strap was tight. 1 or 2 holes up from full loose is all you need. With them all the way out do a run and lock the brakes up. If the rear wants to kick out bring them up one hole
 
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