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Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
Got the battery charged up and in. Still popping. I cleaned the leads too.


Here’s a video of it popping:

I haven’t got a chance to ride it yet so don’t know if it’s still doing the gun shot like backfires after full throttle pulls.


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What does your spark plug look like?
That will be the tell tail sign if it's lean or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Here’s the spark plug
I put a new one in for the rebuild. That’s about 3-400kms. I remember having trouble tightening the spark plug because it was really awkwardly angled. I had to use a plug wrench for it. I was able to get a proper spark plug socket to remove it and I didn’t even feel it “break free”. Might’ve been loose? I left it out for now in case you guys want me to get a fresh one or something but I’ll be sure to tighten it down good. Also check the gap too.


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Looks lean

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Discussion Starter #47
Alright well since the bad gas is a possibility I’ll siphon as much out as I can and add some fresh gas.


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Discussion Starter #48 (Edited)
Is there a way to drain all of the gas out of the tank without taking it off? I used a shaker siphon and there is still 4bars left in the tank according to my gauge.


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If you disconnected the fuel line from the injector would the pump pump most of it out?

Btw i just found out the shaker siphon existed so i bought one to drain the water out of my boat cover. Damn that thing works awesome! And only $5! Sure beats using a bucket or electric pump!


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Discussion Starter #50
If you disconnected the fuel line from the injector would the pump pump most of it out?

Btw i just found out the shaker siphon existed so i bought one to drain the water out of my boat cover. Damn that thing works awesome! And only $5! Sure beats using a bucket or electric pump!


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I’m not sure if it would pump it or not. I did see a video of someone who attached a smaller hose to the line coming from the tank and created a Venturi. They cut a slot in the smaller line and blew compressed air in and it pulled the fuel from the tank. I forget how accessible the line going to the throttle body is, but I will take a look at it tomorrow and see if I can give that Venturi trick a try. I don’t have a shop air compressor, just a 12v outlet one that I carry in the truck, but it might work.


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That machine has a vacuum fuel pump. Your machine has an in tank pump. Not sure that would work.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Is it bad to run the ATV empty? I can ride it this week and I was thinking of just riding it until it’s empty and just bring along a 5 gallon gas can of fresh fuel so I can get a clear answer on if the bad gas is causing the popping.

I also started on that winch problem. The winch would go out fine, but not come in.

Here’s what FireCatV2 said earlier in this thread “Sounds like it's the switch on the winch. Testing the switch or winch is really easy. Use a voltmeter to test the switch. If it's not the switch then check the wiring. A bad winch typically won't move either direction. If you need to test the winch, I use a battery and jumper cables. First one way, then flip.”

I have a multi meter, but I don’t really know much about electrical. If I understand correctly, the switch has 3 wires, one power, one in and one for out.
The power wire on my atv is spliced into the wiring harness and on the end of the wire it is spliced into is a connector.




I think I’ve got an idea how to test the switch, so I’ll check the switch wires for any damage and then test.



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Discussion Starter #53
Just tested at the winch. 13.8V for “in”. Didn’t get a reading for “out”, but obviously it has power because the winch is going out.

So I guess this means the switch is fine and the box beside the winch (the thing the wires go into) is the problem. How do I test it?


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Discussion Starter #54
I cleaned all the wires going to solenoid with a wire brush. Still going out but not coming in. What next? It’s not the switch or wiring to the solenoid. Could it be something inside the solenoid?


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Yes it could be the contactor( solenoid). Put power direct to the winch then reverse it. That will rule out the winch.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Brought the ATV to the cottage for the weekend put on a good 150kms. Almost 500km on the rebuild. Didn’t get a chance to work on the winch problem further. I went through about 1 and 1/2 tanks of gas. Still backfiring, but no more loud gunshot like backfires like last season. Just small pops. So I’ve ruled out the possibility of bad gas. Whats next?


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Are you sure the header pipe gasket is seated correctly ?
Checked all intake boots for cracks?
 

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Have u checked your valves and possibly timming? Backfiring when letting off throttle is also a sign valves are out of adjustment.. among other things..

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Discussion Starter #59
Haven’t checked the valve adjustment or the header gasket. I didn’t adjust the valves after the rebuild, not sure if my dealer did either. The header gasket is new, dealer replaced it to try to solve the backfiring problem, but I’ll check it out. I haven’t tested the winch both ways to make sure the winch is fine yet.

I rode the ATV 2 weekends ago and on the last day I went on a wet trail with several water spots, the highest the water went was up to the bottom of the foot wells. When I went to back up a trailer in reverse (this is after the ride, also a small utility trailer, empty) the belt/clutches were slipping. It wouldn’t have enough power in reverse to back up the trailer. It did the same thing in low gear where it would act like the belt was slipping and would barely move the ATV. In high gear when you start moving the engine has to work a lot harder than usually to get going. I have moved the trailer before without issue. So something is definitely up.

I tried riding the atv this past weekend and it was still acting up. I thought that there might be some water or something in the clutch cover because of the wet trail but nothing came out of the drain bolt. So I took off the clutch cover and found that one of the bottom bolts was loose. You had to remove the footwell frame to loosen and tighten it. I think my dealer must have just not tightened it up? All the other bolts were torqued so so don’t think it could’ve worked itself loose.

I had some trouble removing the cover, not sure if the bearing was stuck or the dowels. Anyway everything looks good. Belt not frayed, clutch cover bearing moves without any “rough spots” when turning. I started the ATV and tested Low and Reverse with the clutch cover off and the problem was gone. I put the cover back on and it’s acting up again.

Is this just the clutch cover bearing? Maybe putting more load on the clutch?

I have the ATV at home now so I can work on it. I’m going to tackle the clutch problem first, then backfiring and then winch.

Also I noticed on the cylinder head, where it mates with the cylinder has some oil stains. I think this is just from assembly of the engine, but I will clean it off with brake clean and keep an eye on it.



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Discussion Starter #60
Having trouble removing the clutch cover again. I don’t know if it’s the dowels or the bearing. It’s hard to pull it off using the little tabs. Don’t want to pry between the two surfaces because I’ll likely damage them. Any tricks?


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