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Discussion Starter #1
I know it been asked before but what are safe cheap end of season mods

My sled is bone stock 2008 F1000

I know to take the plate out of the air box

I know I need a plowman mount

I know it needs clutching

I know it needs boondockers box

I know It needs a Y Pipe

Other then this is thier anything else?

Who makes the best Y pipe?


Who's clutch kit is best?

Also can I do the Y pipe and that the Plate out of the air box and run it without a boondocker for now and still be safe

Thanks Pete
 

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Y pipe, no clear winner, both of my own ran D&D
Clutch kit, BMP Stage II works extremely well
Suggest not running Y pipe + intake mod without a boondocker. Yes some will chime in they've been doing it for years with no issues (and I accept it as the truth) but a similar number have tried and lost an engine. Boondocker properly set up also means you can stick with regular fuel.
If your looking for the best bang for the dollars spent, Plowman mount + clutching.
 

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I am running an 08 1000 w y pipe, clutching and plate removed. well.Lake pulls egts are good when cruising, kick it up to shift out rpm 72-7400ish egt's around 1100 or so,good to go but when rolling back the shift she will bulb into danger land around 1250 and if I held it there at that point it stays on. Thinking when valves close heat is trapped? I added fuel around the 6000 range tonight will test tomorrow
 

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Hey OP .. not trying to post jack but I have 2 x DD F1000 Y-pipes I am trying to unload if you want one. I changed mine to a Bikeman one with pre-welded EGT pyro ports.

Hit me up with a PM if you do.

I have Straightline Performance stg 2 clutch going in mine this week. I have never run Bikeman so I dont know how they compare but I can PM you my impressions if you like.
 
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I am running an 08 1000 w y pipe, clutching and plate removed. well.Lake pulls egts are good when cruising, kick it up to shift out rpm 72-7400ish egt's around 1100 or so,good to go but when rolling back the shift she will bulb into danger land around 1250 and if I held it there at that point it stays on. Thinking when valves close heat is trapped? I added fuel around the 6000 range tonight will test tomorrow
If you are basing the tune strictly on EGT readings, most likely your way too rich. Need to tune via piston wash then use EGT's to monitor. I've had gauges on both of my F10s and now on my 800 HO. It's normal to see numbers that would have seen my former ZR800 or 900 long since burn down. Under mid range cruise, they'll tickle 1300 with ease, quick check on the wash n you'll see it's actually just fine.
Yes my probes are in the correct spot, findings are consistent with others tuning via wash n monitoring with gauges.
Odd part, gauges were virtually a spot on snap shot of what piston wash looked like on my former ZR's. Has to be related to either the lay back engine design and or it's being fuel injected.
First few miles with em on my first F10, worried to no end when it flashed a big number, especially under mid range cruise.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey OP .. not trying to post jack but I have 2 x DD F1000 Y-pipes I am trying to unload if you want one. I changed mine to a Bikeman one with pre-welded EGT pyro ports.

Hit me up with a PM if you do.

I have Straightline Performance stg 2 clutch going in mine this week. I have never run Bikeman so I dont know how they compare but I can PM you my impressions if you like.
Pipeguy how did you like the SLP clutch kit
 
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