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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Everyone, I'm new to the group. I bought my 500 last year as a wreaker and had to do a frame swap. The issue I am have is the following. I have everything hooked up properly and even went through the Carb and made sure the TDC was correct. Valves are at their proper clearance. When I turn over the 500 it will start with not problem but shortly after it sounds like it not getting gas.

I check it is getting fuel and their is suction from the manifold to pull the fuel through the fuel pump. After it runs it is harder to get it to kick over again.

I am thinking fuel pump?
 

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Are you sure you were on the compression TDC when you set the valves. ?
The timing marks will line up on the compression stroke and the exhaust stroke.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Are you sure you were on the compression TDC when you set the valves. ?
The timing marks will line up on the compression stroke and the exhaust stroke.
I thought I was. The Valves were closed. How could I figure this out? Is it the same process and just rotate once more over?
 

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When you are on the compression stroke the rockers should be loose.
 
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Watch this

 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So I watch the video and did the adjustment. Now I have cam lift or knocking right now. So I am guessing that means their is to much play on the lifters?
 

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Or you have cam / lifter or timing chain issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Or you have cam / lifter or timing chain issues.
So I went back and looked at my timing. It was out. I refixed it all and now the quad runs with out the knocking. Now I just have to figure out if it is my carb mix at 2.5 turns or fuel pump is dieing. But I am getting gas it just won't idle very well. May have to open the valves more up. Right now my intake is .002 (0.05 mm) and exhaust is .008 (0.20) which what is shows it the service manual.
 

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The valve timing isn’t that critical. If your within the min max you are good.
 

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You might need a good carb cleaning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I went through and cleaned out the Carb. I noticed that the pervious own had not done that and had the pilot idle turned up. Maybe I just have to play with pilot idle as I has set around 2.5 turns. Doesn't hurt to run back through the carb.
 

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Is the pms in the right order? You have a spring , o-ring and a washer.

Is the collar in there correctly ?

 

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What was wrong?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
She still seems to running rough. I put the video up to show you. Just don't know if it could be the fuel pump or change the air and fuel mixture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Mostly cleaned the carb and put three turns on it nk
Now and just keep looking at the timing with the valve clearance.
 

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What does the plug look like?
 

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I read through this post, and watched your video and looked at the picture of the plug. Sounds to me as if it is running OK (better than mine). As for your original question about the fuel pump, you could put a pressure gauge on it while it is running. I believe it should read about 3 psi, but check your manual to be sure. I bought this pressure gauge: 0 to 15 psi range is good for the purpose. A 0-30 gauge might also work if you have one, but I'd say a 0-100 wouldn't.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084YSZ1Z3/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_W8564VEKDCVDEWV2ZY7M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I've been working pretty steadily on my 2007 arctic cat 500 4x4 FIS, almost the same as yours. Mine also runs rough, and I'd say it is running rich. I have the Dynojet Kit in it. Do you have the stock jets? Have you checked to be sure they match OEM specs?

Try the "more air, less air" test: For More Air, remove the air filter - does it run better or worse? For less air, put a piece of cardboard or some other restriction into the intake airstream - upstream of the carburetor - does it run better or worse?

Finally, have you done a compression test?

Al
 
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