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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just got my 2007 700efi back fron the shop where they had replaced a bad fuel pump. Pretty sure he said he had to pull all the plastics, drop the tank, etc. Went to ride it yesterday and noticed it does not shift out of 1st gear. Display shows either L,H,N,R when i select the appropriate setting. Im not certain if the 700 shifted out of 1st before i took it to the shop, but i believe it did. Anyone have any suggestions on where to look. Dont really want to take it back to the shop for the 3rd time...
Thank you
 

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Maybe make sure your battery if fully charged and load test it. I know it’s a long shot but electrical anomalies sometimes are caused by a poor battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Maybe make sure your battery if fully charged and load test it. I know it’s a long shot but electrical anomalies sometimes are caused by a poor battery.
Thanks 660catman, tried a new battery, no luck.

Granted, i do not know what i am looking at, but i took the primary cover off, all looks good.
Recorded a video, maybe something jumps out at someone?

 

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Yours rollers are probably flat spotted or your secondary spring is broken. The clutches aren’t shifting out at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Your shift linkage needs adjustment if it won’t shift out of low gear
Dont believe it can be the shift linkage as i have it unhooked from the front fender, and is placed in "H" by my hand on the side of the motor.
 

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Yes
 

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It sounds like car oil may have been used in the crankcase. If so, Stop running it!!!!!

Car oil cannot be used in a motor that has a wet clutch.
Car oil has "friction modifiers" in the oil. This will not allow the internal clutch to hook up.
This will destroy your internal centrifugal clutch. It may already have. This would be #20 and #25.

If car oil was used, it may be possible to flush the motor (same as flushing after a swamping).

1. Drain oil. Leave filter on.
2. Remove spark plug. You do not want any back pressure.
3. Fill crankcase with kerosene.
4. Turn key on and use starter button to slosh the kerosene throughout motor for a good minute or 2.
5. Drain.
6. Fill with kerosene again and slosh again.
7 Drain. Remove and throw filter.
8. Install new filter, fill with "wet clutch" compatible oil. Preferably NOT synthetic (but not a biggie)
9. Slosh again without spark plug.
10. Install the plug.
11. Start the motor for about 15 seconds. Don't even sit on the machine. Apply a little throttle to see if the internal clutch will move it forward a foot.
12. Drain the oil, remove and throw the filter away.
13. Install new oil filter and fresh "wet clutch" compatible oil.
14. Fire the machine up. See how the clutch grabs. Maybe take it for a 15 minute ride.
15. Drain the oil, remove and throw the filter away.
16. Install new oil filter and fresh "wet clutch" compatible oil.

17. Tell yourself never to use automobile oil again.

Now, if the clutch is not grabbing at step #11, you will likely need to split the cases and replace both internal clutch and clutch bell (housing).

Hope it works for you.
 

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Also, one last thing.

It is OK to run without the outer cover.
Just..... NEVER run without the outer cage. Very bad things happen.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It sounds like car oil may have been used in the crankcase. If so, Stop running it!!!!!

Car oil cannot be used in a motor that has a wet clutch.
Car oil has "friction modifiers" in the oil. This will not allow the internal clutch to hook up.
This will destroy your internal centrifugal clutch. It may already have. This would be #20 and #25.

If car oil was used, it may be possible to flush the motor (same as flushing after a swamping).

1. Drain oil. Leave filter on.
2. Remove spark plug. You do not want any back pressure.
3. Fill crankcase with kerosene.
4. Turn key on and use starter button to slosh the kerosene throughout motor for a good minute or 2.
5. Drain.
6. Fill with kerosene again and slosh again.
7 Drain. Remove and throw filter.
8. Install new filter, fill with "wet clutch" compatible oil. Preferably NOT synthetic (but not a biggie)
9. Slosh again without spark plug.
10. Install the plug.
11. Start the motor for about 15 seconds. Don't even sit on the machine. Apply a little throttle to see if the internal clutch will move it forward a foot.
12. Drain the oil, remove and throw the filter away.
13. Install new oil filter and fresh "wet clutch" compatible oil.
14. Fire the machine up. See how the clutch grabs. Maybe take it for a 15 minute ride.
15. Drain the oil, remove and throw the filter away.
16. Install new oil filter and fresh "wet clutch" compatible oil.

17. Tell yourself never to use automobile oil again.

Now, if the clutch is not grabbing at step #11, you will likely need to split the cases and replace both internal clutch and clutch bell (housing).

Hope it works for you.
Thank you for the advice, i do not believe that car oil was used, but im not 100% certain.
After following everyones advice on here, i have learned quite a bit about the clutch. Tore it apart, everything looks good, except the movable drive plate. it does not appear to have any "teeth" left on it anymore. Im thinking this is causing my problems? Thoughts anyone?
Thanks for everyones help!
361884
 

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That is most definitely your problem
 

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That is definitely the problem.

It is not very common for the plate to strip on it's own.
It can happen if the clutch was removed and re-installed without insuring the the plate was seated into the teeth.

It does also happen when people do the "shim" mod for better low end.
Too many shims will push the plate out and not grab enough of the teeth.
I found 1.5mm of shim leaves a satisfactory amount of teeth showing.

FYI, your 700 is a Suzuki motor. If you have trouble sourcing the part through Cat sources, just look up the part for a Suzuki Kingquad 700 model LT-A700X. Likely cheaper and more easily available. plate part #21431-31G00

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So, i finally got my new movable drive plate in yesterday, installed it this morning, and same f*^&ing thing. It still doesnt shift. the belt never moves up the sides of the movable plate, etc...
Im out of ideas
 

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Did you make sure the hat fit on far enough to grab all the splines?
See this
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks to everyones help, i think i got the clutch problem fixed. I dont know what i was doing wrong, but it works now.
Now i just need to figure out why it is running so darn rough


 

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It is not advisable to run without the cage installed.
It holds the proper alignment.
Even in neutral, the load can destroy the internal bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Blatantly obvious that i have no clue what i am doing. Got the 700 all put back together, when it is started up it will lunge. For as long as i can remember, when i first started it, it would sit there until i gave it throttle and then accelerate. Assuming something in the clutch is not adjusted correctly? But what?
 

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Did you watch that video?
It sounds like a one way bearing issue.
 

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If you are running it without the "cage" around the clutch, all kinds of weird bad stuff will happen. it could be c ocking the drum enough for the clutch to drag, or the one way bearing to gall and seize.
if the one way bearing is now bad, you can just remove it and throw it away, as its real expensive to fix properly since you would have to replace the bearing, wet clutch, and drum
 
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