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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

new to this forum here but have been using the search bar but no real like in finding anything to help me out here. Bought a cheap 2006 arctic cat 400 VP model a week or so ago and seemed to be running fine since. Yesterday I went to take it out and I noticed it took a real long time to get it started. After it was finally started I noticed bogging when I stop on the throttle and seemed like it would want to die out idling at points. Since then I took the carb off and made sure all the jets were clean, as well as the carb bowl and everything was spotless. I re installed the carb on it and checked the spark plug. Noticed the plug has seen some wear and that’s it’s a knock off brand plug so I have a new NGK plug coming in to swap that out. While I was waiting I installed the old plug and went to fire it up and now it will not start at all. Started for a few seconds but only ran in neutral giving it a tiny bit of throttle and when I backed off it died out. Will not run at all now. Also heard a few back fires while trying to start it..

Next step I believe is to check the valve clearance to ensure that’s okay but just seeing if anyone else has any input which would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks all,

Dan
 

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Check for spark when you get your new plug and make sure it’s consistent. 03-06 400’s were bad for the flywheel magnets breaking off resulting in spark issues.
 

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Seems like it’s getting strong constant spark. Put it all back together after cleaning the carb out again and I believe I didn’t have the electric choke properly installed so this time it’s firing up good for now. Set the valves to spec which they weren’t really far off but now it’s quitting every now and then and still bogging. Noticed it’s burning a lot of oil so I figured I’ll look into a top end kit for it. Just wondering if anyone knows the spec for the cylinder/piston as what it’s bored to from factory and if I should get the cylinder bored out and get a bigger piston to match or wether I should get a used motor off somebody I know. Thanks a lot guys
 

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I think your cylinder is plated. You can get the nikasil replayed to factory spec.
 

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For some reason I don’t think the 400 utility is plated. I found a site for Suzuki and the Eiger utility ATV has a cast in liner and the 400 sport quads are plated. 400 sports have totally different engine as do the Cat DVX’s.
When I did a top end on a 400 it was ok and I just honed it.
 

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My 04 400 was cast, i went .05mm overbore with a piston to match. There is a local shop to me that will mate the piston and rings to cylinder for $120, nice and cheap.

Sounds to me like your float valve might be sticking or hanging up or wearing out, the carbs on the older 400s are notoriously picky, I've set mine about 300 times and it still stalls out all the time randomly. I find adjusting the idle screw (Not the PMS screw) to turn to idle up when it's cold, then back down when it's warm is effective. Sometimes even after cleaning carb, and getting everything shining nice the float valve gets stuck in the seat or on the float in a way it causes grief. Is the 06 400 the modern body style with a fuel pump in tank? or gravity fed like the 04/05s?

the 06's had the electric choke assembly, notorious for causing issues, the choke on an arctic cat is an enrichment circuit not and air circuit, so it adds fuel to the process instead of reducing air, if the choke malfunctions (as the electric ones almost always did) it will pour a pile of fuel in and flood out, there are manual choke conversion kits, but there is also a way (somewhere on this site) that someone shimmed it so it couldn't move, or disconnected the wiring to leave it in the closed position (i think, my choke is manual someone may chime in who has dealt with the E-chokes more) Did you remove and clear your PMS screw on carb? if so did you get it back in the right amount of turns?

If you are backfiring as you say it could be poor combustion (bad spark) poor compression,, bad timing chain, or flywheel magnets giving spark at the wrong time because they are loose.

I would do a top end on the old 400s before I'd replace the engine.. I've got 7000 miles on my 04, still running strong, refreshed top end at 4600 miles. If/when it finally goes I'll be rebuilding it bottom to top again or finding a used motor to flange in. Check your valve clearances and possibly consider a timing chain. take off your Crankcase vent from your airbox, if you get it running put white papertowel or a white rag infront of it and see what comes out. my 2004 showed amazing compression (too much actually, 105lbs) and my piston rings were toast, my exhaust wasn't smoking because the burning oil smoke was being hammered out my crankcase vent into my intake assembly... weird/rare thing to happen, I ran it probably 2000 miles with piston slap and toast rings without even realizing it.

How many miles are supposedly on the machine? roughly where are you located?

Good news is, the old 400s with the locking front diff are an amazing little machine, with the mods I've done to mine I go places that I have no business being, and people always assume it's alot bigger than a 381 (376 stock .5mm overbore = 381 if my math was right when I did it.) If you can sort out this issue you potentially have a little beast of a machine on your hands.
 
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