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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Turns out they are different. The bearing I installed had different internal clearances than the OEM version. I found the specs on the OEM bearing for part number 0832-077. I bought the same one direct from a supplier.

However, there is still something causing the failure. Looking at the damaged bearing that I still have, the guy at the bearing store said it appears the bearing is taking lateral loads (which shouldn’t happen). Only thing that would cause this would be bad shimming, bent components (driveline or output shaft), or possibly the nut wasn’t tight enough holding the assembly together.
 

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Wow this one is a head scratcher. Any signs that someone had been in there before?
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
I’m positive I was the first to split the cases. Maybe the issue is that I just used a crappy bearing. I still think I have an issue in the front diff. For sure. Rear diff was full. Front diff leaked out in about a week after I filled. So, I’m willing to bet it was driven bone dry.

Maybe the vibrations in driveline forced the issue? Maybe the grinding I’m hearing now was the front diff.
 

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The front diff is probably the axle seals leaking. I’m thinking this machine never saw maintenance!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
I’m going to reshim the gears. Just need to get some marking paint. Well, at least I’ll check shims. I don’t have any. They are like $12 each different size and have no idea what I need.

I’ll at least be able to measure my shims and see if needs more or less.
 

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On the bevel gears?
 

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Yes. If they are chipped or grooved they will make noise.
 

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Replace the bearing , shim properly using teeth contact pattern compound.
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 · (Edited)
I did find out that I screwed up a little on the previous reinstalled. There were two shims between the driven gear and the secondary drive gear from the factory. When I reinstalled, I put the 1mm shim behind the driven gear next to the bearing. I thought it was a washer and not a shim. Then placed the thinner shim between the secondary drive gear and the drive gear.

I initially thought I found the smoking gun. Then, after thinking about it a little more, my screw up wouldn’t have affected the bevel gear shimming necessarily. The drive gear was farther from the bearing, but, the secondary drive gear was the same amount of distance. The contact with the secondary driven gear would have been the same.

Anyways, I just checked the backlash. 0.008”. That’s within spec of 0.003” to 0.013”. I’m trying to find some gear marking compound to check the teeth contact area.

Either way, I don’t think this is my problem.

As a matter of fact, I don’t even think I needed to split my cases. I don’t think I had any issue at all. Yes, bearing was wrong. But, it really handbrake failed upon closer inspection. The OEM bearing I replaced it with had the same amount of “slop” with the secondary shaft bearing cap removed.
 

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Have you had the clutches apart?
 

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Yes and check for flat spots, make sure the splines on the fixed plate are good. Did you check the one way bearing, sorry I can’t remember. Also check the wet clutch for broken springs.
Check the secondary for proper operation and no broken spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
So it’s been a while since I posted. Haven’t made a whole lot of progress. Went ahead and decided to replace the one way bearing while I was in there. An issue with shipping has me still waiting on the part.

However, I picked up another prowler. Same year, Same color, same everting. Not running. Just got it running and man, it drives so much better than mine.

First of all, no grinding. And the take off and acceleration is so much smoother. By far. This one I just bought only had 750 miles and like 175 hours. It sat for years. Had a fuel problem and the owner bought something else. The plastics have faded pretty bad. I’m leaning towards swapping over all my plastics and keeping this new one. Basically make the best machine out of the two and sell the other.

But, I still want to fix the grinding issue. Can’t sell it like that. I don’t think the issue is in the engine. I’m going to confirm that this weekend by towing the prowler behind my truck and seeing if it grinds/shakes. It doesn’t have an engine at the moment. So, should be a fair test.

Also, the new one I picked up is completely stock. Except for a full factory cab enclosure. Well, missing front glass. But, I can recreate with Poly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #99 ·
Saga continues. Engine is fine. It’s the drivetrain making the grinding and shaking noises. It’s so bad it probably chewed up that output shaft bearing. My guess at least. I isolated to the rear. This is way worse than a little brake chatter. But it does appear to be driven from the brakes. Maybe the pinion bearing in the rear differential is shot.

What sucks is that it has a new rotor and pads on it. So, I don’t know what else to do to fix. Maybe have someone true it up on a lathe. If I can find someone willing.

I’m wonder if I should disconnect the caliper and drive it around to check. I did this previously, but, the output shaft bearing was shot. So my results were skewed. It’s possible if the bearing is toast in the rear end it would let the driveshaft output wobble. This causing brake chatter?

Dont know. Thoughts?
 

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It’s possible. Is the rear end mounts worn or egged out allowing the diff to move?
can you put it up on stands and run it to see what’s going on?
 
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